SHOUT!!! for help 4stoke 7g huasheng

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xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
Forgive laziness and grammar I did this once already and the site deleted. So my patience is limited now.
So to begin my problem. The bike has 640 miles on this 7g kit. I was riding today and went through some roughish terrain.
After that the bike idled down sharply. It didn't shut off but would not go over 5mph. (top end is 24 usually maintained at 19-21 mph) It was like it was choked or fuel starved. I pulled over and let it idle. It improved a little bit. Enough to put home for 8 miles.

So in short. It idles... if a little off smoothly. If I full throttle it stalls and stops when the bike is not moving. If the bike is moving it bogs down but will eventually build up speed.

Now I am home. Repair attempts include:

- Add a little teeny weeny bit of oil. Not enough to matter.

- Remove carb. Clean carb parts... jets, float needle et cetera.

- New ignition coil arrived today by coincidence. ( The original had a near rub through, but still works.) Took off old coil applied new coil... come to find out the new one was used and sold as new. The new old coil is a bust. Reinstalled old coil. Bike still runs with old coil. This may be the issue but I won’t know till I can get a new coil.
UPDATE: Got another known working coil and installed it to my bike. No change. Put my coil back on. Gave the known good back to my friend.

Results:
Runs a little better. Learned that the carb could probably stand cleaning about every 400-600 miles. (Not hard at all) (BTW the black ovalish thing under the idle screw is a jet.
Still stalls out when throttled. (No adjustment to speak of that I can see, other than idle screw.) There were some washers on the needle but I am not sure those are meant to be messed with.
UPDATE: Now runs up all the way. The engine still stalls (Immediate stall not a putter down.) when throttle is jammed. However if I don’t break about 15-20 throttle it will idle up just fine. Then after 8-12 MPH it is fine to throttle at will. I have cleaned the carb a second time. I have looked around it seems that there is another carb for the huasheng. The one I have has a brass needle that injects the fuel into the inlet. The is a set needle, and cannot be adjusted or removed… stupid IMO. The other carb I saw had some form of adjustment screw to adjust fuel flow… this would allow you to remove it for proper cleaning.
Now my thoughts thus far. New plug, new coil, cleaned carb two times. ( I believe the carb made the biggest difference.) With that said I think it is a carb problem. Since they made the atomizer/fuel mix needle/Metering valve, not adjustable and not removable, it is the only place that I can’t get some brake cable into to dislodge anything that may be stuck. I was able to get the red tube of the carb cleaner can to bend just enough to back flow some cleaner through it. Again minor improvement. I still have immediate stall.
Another thing of not when I release throttle I am getting back firing. Is this related or some kind of fuel timing thing.
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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I have looked around it seems that there is another carb for the huasheng. The one I have has a brass needle that injects the fuel into the inlet. The is a set needle, and cannot be adjusted or removed… stupid IMO.

The other carb I saw had some form of adjustment screw to adjust fuel flow… this would allow you to remove it for proper cleaning.
Please post a pic of your carb.

The usual butterfly HS carb has the mixture screw covered by an anti-tamper brass plug.
Easy fix to drill the plug out.

Clean the black plastic idle jet with a piece of wire.
 

xlander

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Dec 12, 2014
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az
I did pull out that plastic idle jet. Used a cut piece of brake cable to clean it.

Thanks for the tip about that brass plug.
 

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xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
More pics attempt. I always run into issues when posting or linking images.
 

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xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
When you say drill the thick plug I assume you mean the left plug not the thin one with the red glue holding it?

I had the impression they made that non adjustable. I just want to be sure before I find out that I drilled out a solid brass cone, and killed the carb.
 
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xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
I find it interesting that this motor hits near max speed (23MPH) with 25% throttle pull. The remaining 75% throttle only takes you to 25MPH.
 

MotorBicycleRacing

Well-Known Member
Jul 28, 2010
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SoCal Baby!!!
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When you say drill the thick plug I assume you mean the left plug not the thin one with the red glue holding it?

I had the impression they made that non adjustable. I just want to be sure before I find out that I drilled out a solid brass cone, and killed the carb.
yes, remove the plug on the left which covers a functioning mixture screw.

Count how many turns in until you lightly seat the screw.
 

xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
Okay update to this issue. Pulled the mixture screw out. It did indeed have some kind of residue on it.
I cleaned both the mix screw needle and its port.

Still stalls out on full throttle slam. Instant stop.

Couple of notes for those reading this. Get a pic of your needle inside the carb like mine. As it turns out the drill jumped once it punched through. Then it of course screwed the screw in all the way faster than I could compensate to stop the punch through.

After reassembling using the picture as a rough estimation. Started the bike tweaked slightly to find rough idle. Tuned back to smooth idle then smelled exhaust for rich or lean. Good and smooth.

Punch the throttle to test. Still stalls. Still will idle up slowly if I don't jam it on.

So what is the next thought. I have good spark, good carb... in theory. At least it is clean.

Is there anything to adjusting timing that could have shaken loose on a bump, or maybe the spark timing is off.

Believe it or not. I've worked on jets, and forklifts. So I am not completely scrub with a wrench. However this is my first small 4 stroke carb and engine I have ever put my hands on. With that said thanks for the help with the noob questions, and learning curve.
 

xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
While I was cleaning the mixture screw and port I noticed three little tiny holes behind the butterfly valve.

Since the mixture screw had some varnish I am guessing whatever those are may have crap too.

Let me know. ...4th times the charm? That will be how many times I have pulled this carb apart this week. I am guessing the other three holes have to do with whatever that other brass cover is hiding.
 

xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
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az
How much more space requirement is there for that because the staock one buts right against my frame. Also a link would be sweet. Thanks!!

Wait is that the 2 stroke carb? If it is I haven't seen a good 2 stroke carb sold in a while. I had one of the good ones, but tossed it when I moved to 4 stroke.
 

xlander

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
68
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az
Where do i get that part intake manifold? Any recommendations for carb? In my experience the 2 stroke carbs being sold now are garbage too.
 

donphantasmo

Member
Oct 3, 2010
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Middleburg, FL
Also, since you went over rough terrain, don't discount an air leak. I would check around and make sure everything is tight. Use starting fluid as a tester, spray it around mating surfaces of the motor. If the idle goes up, you have a leak.

I have some similar problems sometimes, with scooters. a little tightening up, and that usually fixed the problem.
 

Panhead

New Member
Mar 20, 2015
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Michigan U.S.A.
I was moments away from bedtime when I stumbled across this post & had to run out to the garage for a quick peek at my own RuiXing carburetor. I've been wrestling with the thing for months & this is an interesting thread.
I understand a 2-stroke carb & manifold work well, and eventually I'll bet that's what I'll be doing.