Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no woodruf

GoldenMotor.com

aceofspades

New Member
May 22, 2016
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miami
Yeah so I finally pulled the clutch and there is no woodruff keys on either side of the clutch shaft. There was one on the magneto.

How do I get these screws out am I doing something wrong cause they won't come out with a manual impact driver.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

I'm wondering if they went flying off somewhere when the parts came loose, but it sometimes happens that the factory never got them in there. Has the motor been opened before, or is it new?

If you mean the three case bolts under the clutch, then I've never seen them fail to come out using a good impact driver.
 

aceofspades

New Member
May 22, 2016
4
0
0
miami
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

I'm wondering if they went flying off somewhere when the parts came loose, but it sometimes happens that the factory never got them in there. Has the motor been opened before, or is it new?

If you mean the three case bolts under the clutch, then I've never seen them fail to come out using a good impact driver.
They came out after sitting in Kroil.

Thanks a lot. No it's never been opened, the guy I got it from had never done anything to it. Hey so I split the engine now what do I do to take out the crank.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
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USA
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

first, be sure you need to take it out - the metal in these cases is crap and warpage can happen to them in the process of pulling apart & putting back together - also, pulling crank can force the crank cheeks out of true or pressing back in can do the same

sometimes the main bearings are so tight, they will be destroyed in removal

many folks with crank problems just get a new bottom end complete
 

aceofspades

New Member
May 22, 2016
4
0
0
miami
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

first, be sure you need to take it out - the metal in these cases is crap and warpage can happen to them in the process of pulling apart & putting back together - also, pulling crank can force the crank cheeks out of true or pressing back in can do the same

sometimes the main bearings are so tight, they will be destroyed in removal

many folks with crank problems just get a new bottom end complete
I got new bearings and a new crank. Putting in a half breed crank. Do I hammer the crank out?
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
63
USA
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

there instructions here somewhere for making a case puller with pictures - that seems best
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
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USA
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

I don't know - check the seller's area here
 

Agreen

Member
Feb 10, 2013
792
11
18
Southeastern GA
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

I tapped mine out with a hammer. If you have new bearings and a crank, warping the old crank won't be a concern. There is a possibility of damaging the case, but I don't think there's a big enough chance to worry. My 48 came apart and went back together this way without warping even the crank.

Yes, a crank puller would be ideal, but we aren't building an F1 engine here.
 

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
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18
Maine
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

Your welcome
 

sbest

Member
Nov 3, 2015
343
2
18
Nova Scotia
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

At 7min 20 seconds into the video it looks like there is the puller being used. It threads into something on the engine. The monkey wrench holding all from turning while using the large Allen wrench loosen the crank.

Thanks for that link!
Sorry you've got no wood man. That's gotta be he11. ;)

That puller is for the sprocket, same one that pulls the clutch.
A small one pictured below comes with your engine or can be bought for $2.99.


The threads in the puller may not fit the sprocket or clutch well. Be prepared to chase or file them deeper for better engagement. Need 2 full turns of engagement minimum or risk ruining the threads, completely painting yourself into a corner.

Not all engines come apart as easy as Fred's.
Press fits on the case and crank can be rather firm, plus the crank can burr on the magneto side shoulder (maybe the other side too?). File off any burrs, and heat the case with a propane torch to get the bearings out of the case. I like to get the crank out of the bearing first, then deal with the case.

People put locktite in the darndest places, heat is your friend if it doesn't move. Just enough to smoke the oil.

Lost woodruff keys are common. They go flying when you pop it apart, quickly lost in the grass or under the bench. Cheap to buy, get a couple just in case.

Steve
 

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,744
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CA
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

Although I don't have one of these engine, maybe one day I might so I checked out that good video. My Briggs engine does not loose oil at the seal by crankcase wall. The engine splits with out any force. Wonder how there can be so much difference in engine mfr with respect to the seals?

Also does the woodruff key on these China Girl Engines also have to be like the Briggs. That is ought to be of weak metal (aluminum or white metal) and not steel. (with Sbest's antics I may be stepping into something)

I know for the clutch I use steel, but the flywheel side of the Briggs has to be aluminum key.
 
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sbest

Member
Nov 3, 2015
343
2
18
Nova Scotia
Re: Pulled clutch and can't remove screws behind it even with an impact, also no wood

What? What's my antics???

Briggs seals are much better than the China Girl.
Tolerances on the China Girl are all over the place.

Aluminum keys are for any engine that can suddenly fetch up, like a mower.
They act like a shear pin to protect the crank from bending.

While this engine's crank is weaker than a Briggs, it isn't subject to sudden stops.
Aluminum key is not needed, but would work if you used one.
The key is to locate, the taper is what holds the magneto flywheel.

Steve