Oily

[MrLarkins]

I am thinking I have an air flow / mixture problem...still
Now, I have taken the muffler off and used a grinder on the gasket and opening on the muffler pipe, so that they matched the exhaust port on the engine. But it's leaking oil.

Intake angle pipe

Intake on engine

Exhaust on engine

Exhaust (muffler)

 

[MrLarkins]

Oil on Case

Head and Plug

SUGGESTIONS? SHOULD I MATCH THE INTAKE PORT LIKE I MATCHED THE EXHAUST PORT?

 

[jf30cp]

looks like to me you need to get some new gaskets. also what mix are you running? looks like you are running way way to rich with all that un-burned oil. I am no expert but this is what i think.

 

[datz510]

Looks like the head gasket was leaking a little too. Definitely replace the gaskets. Nice job port matching! Looks really nice!

 

[misteright1_99]

You might also want to look at the flange on the exhaust and intake manifolds. Mine were nowhere near flat.......

 

[MrLarkins]

need a port and polish expert here!!! should i match the intake like i matched the exhaust, or does that not matter? what gain could i expect if i did? would i even see a gain?

i mixed 4oz oil to 1.4 gallons...i should be the opposite of oil rich shouldn't I?, i'll add some more straight gas to my mix and see if it clears up any.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

That's already pretty lean on the gas/oil mix ratio.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

I think your carb is set a bit rich too.

 

[MrLarkins]

I think your carb is set a bit rich too.

you talkin' 'bout that clip on the pin thingY?, if so, mines second from the top

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

One question for those of us whom are too tired to "do the math"...what ratio is 4 oz. of oil to 1.4 gallons of fuel?

Even though you are set at the second notch, you may still be rich. The last bike I built I had to go to the top for the first time.

Also, keep in mind that the "leaner" the oil to fuel mixture, the "richer" the fuel to air ratio.

So...if you are running something like 40:1 or 50:1, then the second notch may be too rich.

Personally, with the bushed wristpin engine, I wouldn't run any leaner than 32:1.

 

[MrLarkins]

4 oz to 1.4 gallons is 44.5:1

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Thank you. I was doing 6th grade math by the time I entered kindergarden, but got so burnt on it by the 9th grade I really shut down when it comes to math, especially when I'm whooped from a long day.

My complaining aside, that's pretty lean on the oil, even if you are using a top grade synthetic.

To answer you other question, you may see a very small increase in power, especially the top end if you port match the intake.

I'd replace the exhaust gasket, and torque the head down to 15-25 ft.lbs. ans see what you have. You may want to replace the head gasket if it still leaks.

As for the fuel issue, I will only SUGGEST that you try a mix of 30:1, and see what happens as far as running, ect. Your plug should look brown, like choclate, not sooty black.

 

[jasonh]

I'd mix up some new gas with 1gal gas and 4oz oil to give you a 32:1 mix. Clean up the head and spark plug a bit. Put new intake/exhaust/head gaskets on and properly torque all nuts. Bump the E clip to the top notch, and see how she runs. Check the plug after a few miles and adjust accordingly.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[MrLarkins]

well, i thought maybe the head nuts weren't tightened properly, so i loosened all four, and borrowed my neighbors torque wrench. i set it to 120 in lbs (like norman said = http://motorbicycling.com/f30/motorized-bicycle-engine-top-end-rebuild-297-2.html#post2164 )
and in the process it pulled the broke the stud (i ended up breaking two!) so off to ace hardware for some new studs...

 

[Norman]

do the head torqueing in 3 steps and a cross pattern start at 40"lb/80"lb/120"lb. What size is the main jet it could be too big 0.026 thousands is what I'm running I use a very small micro drill to measure the size need to be a slight snug fit if it will wallow in the hole I solder it up and redrill it with a hand held pin vice/drill go easy as solder is easy to wallow out and then you will have a egg shaped hole if you aren't careful.
To help the intake and exhaust flanges to seal better remove the studs and using a mill file dress the cylinders flanges go easy and clean the file on each stroke so you don't drag a aluminum burr across the sealing surface. Also mill file the flanges in the intake manifold and exhaust pipe as you are doing this watch the metal and you will see where you miss or have a low spot. I use good old dry marker on these surfaces as machinest dye so I know then it flat as all dry marker ink will be gone as you get the surface true. Lap the head on a sheet of wed/dry sandpaper 220 or 320 grit. glue the sand paper to the glass wiith spray on contact cement. use soapy water to lube the sand paper and to help flush away the cutting lap it until you get a uniform dullness on the sealing ring on the head. I then will do the same to the top of the cylinder as there isn't a bit of machine work on the cylinders that I've played with.
I use the aluminum cheap spray paint on both sides of the head gasket and install it wet then torque the bolts run the engine around the block or until the engine gets warm all over/ normal operating temp shut it down let it cool completely then torque the head bolts at 120 "lb again. you can do the retorque again after riding and letting it cool all the way off.
To get the nasty oily stains off b-12 carb cleaner will do the trick don't let this stuff get on the painted surfaces as it will eat most paint. and dang sure don't get it in your eyes and try not to get it on your skin.
Norm

 

[MrLarkins]

do the head torqueing in 3 steps and a cross pattern start at 40"lb/80"lb/120"lb. What size is the main jet it could be too big 0.026 thousands is what I'm running I use a very small micro drill to measure the size need to be a slight snug fit if it will wallow in the hole I solder it up and redrill it with a hand held pin vice/drill go easy as solder is easy to wallow out and then you will have a egg shaped hole if you aren't careful.
To help the intake and exhaust flanges to seal better remove the studs and using a mill file dress the cylinders flanges go easy and clean the file on each stroke so you don't drag a aluminum burr across the sealing surface. Also mill file the flanges in the intake manifold and exhaust pipe as you are doing this watch the metal and you will see where you miss or have a low spot. I use good old dry marker on these surfaces as machinest dye so I know then it flat as all dry marker ink will be gone as you get the surface true. Lap the head on a sheet of wed/dry sandpaper 220 or 320 grit. glue the sand paper to the glass wiith spray on contact cement. use soapy water to lube the sand paper and to help flush away the cutting lap it until you get a uniform dullness on the sealing ring on the head. I then will do the same to the top of the cylinder as there isn't a bit of machine work on the cylinders that I've played with.
I use the aluminum cheap spray paint on both sides of the head gasket and install it wet then torque the bolts run the engine around the block or until the engine gets warm all over/ normal operating temp shut it down let it cool completely then torque the head bolts at 120 "lb again. you can do the retorque again after riding and letting it cool all the way off.
To get the nasty oily stains off b-12 carb cleaner will do the trick don't let this stuff get on the painted surfaces as it will eat most paint. and dang sure don't get it in your eyes and try not to get it on your skin.
Norm

hey thanks norman...now here comes the clear sign of my ignorance

• 
  [1]i did the head torque in three steps, i was on step 3.
  [2]i have no idea what 'size' the jet is...it's stock from kingsmotorbikes.com
  [3]what is solder? i don't have that
  [4]what's a mill and what are flanges?
  [5]ah lap, i know that one...i've lapped my cpu waterblock...but there's no way i'm doing that again with this motor...no offense.

i need 4 new studs

 

[jasonh]

get some better nuts for the heads as well while you're at it.

The jets are all supposed to be the same size, but you know how quality control is on these motors..

Solder is the silver stuff you use to make electrical connections to circuit boards, and to "glue" copper plumbing together.

Flanges are the areas where the intake and exhaust mate up to the motor.

If you don't want to lap them, it's understandable. I used some orange RTV sealant that's rated to like 650 degrees or something. Spread it on both sides of the gaskets and installed. Should help absorb any surface imperfections.

 

[Norman]

you might try a lower last setting of 100 "lb or 110"lb but if you are using a high grade stud as I assume you are going to seeing you broke tem then 120"lb should work
2 to find out the jet size you will need a very small drill bit set in the number range you can get this set at harbor freight sometimes or a good auto shop a drill size of 0.026 thousands is about what the stock size is.
3 solder is sold at hardware stores and at radio shack and other stores I use a soft solder and reson flux to solder the jet closed then redrill it by hand using a pin vice.
4 millfile is a grade of roughness for a file this is on the fine side
flanges is the surface that the muffler bolts to the cylinder and the intake manifold also I call the surfaces of the cylinder that these bolt to flanges or the other half of the flange.
5 laping the head and cylinder will not take long don't be afraid to do this as it will help in sealing the head gasket.
6 if you pm me your address I can send you a good exhaust gasket and intake gasket if you will cover the shipping.

 

[Can Harm Hen]

Wow, I run my engine at 24:1 and it's nowhere near as oily and sooty as yours. Maybe you aren't mixing the gasoline completely and the oil is separating out?