Need help installing this part

[Will122391]

Hello bikers, I am having trouble installing this part

It appears to be the mechanism that disconnects the crankshaft from the clutch, but I cannot seem to get it on. There is a hex nut already on the crank shaft that blocks it from screwing in. It does not fit on top of the nut and will not screw in. Am I supposed to remove the hex nut?

I ordered my kit from BGF and didn't get instructions with my kit. Youtube videos seem to show the part already installed. Any help would be great

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

Hello bikers, I am having trouble installing this part

It appears to be the mechanism that disconnects the crankshaft from the clutch, but I cannot seem to get it on.

There is a hex nut already on the crank shaft that blocks it from screwing in. It does not fit on top of the nut and will not screw in. Am I supposed to remove the hex nut?

I ordered my kit from BGF and didn't get instructions with my kit. Youtube videos seem to show the part already installed. Any help would be great

That "part" is a puller that is Only used to remove that 10 tooth sprocket
or the clutch and bevel gear on the other side of the motor.

Why do you want to remove the 10 tooth sprocket?

If you really have to remove the 10 tooth drive sprocket of course the
nut must be removed first.

 

[Will122391]

That "part" is a puller that is Only used to remove that 10 tooth sprocket
or the clutch and bevel gear on the other side of the motor.

Why do you want to remove the 10 tooth sprocket?

If you really have to remove the 10 tooth drive sprocket of course the
nut must be removed first.

Well I don't see how the clutch arm would work without the puller. My 10T sprocket doesn't turn even with the clutch held in when the cover is on. Something must be wrong. I know you have to pedal to start the engine, but my sprocket will not turn.

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

Well I don't see how the clutch arm would work without the puller.

My 10T sprocket doesn't turn even with the clutch held in when the cover is on. Something must be wrong. I know you have to pedal to start the engine, but my sprocket will not turn.

The puller is Not used except as a removal tool.
Do not remove the nut holding the sprocket on.

Do you have the metal (bucking) bar that came out of the "hole" in the middle of the sprocket?
There is also a 8 mm OD ball bearing that goes in the "hole" and hopefully is still in there stuck in some grease.

The clutch arm rotates pushing on the end of the bucking bar which activates the clutch plate on the other side (right) of the motor under the 5 bolt cover.

The clutch plate can be frozen.

 

[Kioshk]

There should be one large ball-bearing, and a short cylindrical bar that fit the hole in the center (ball may already be in there, secured by grease). The short bar (bucking-bar) needs to be inserted, then you can mount clutch-arm-cover. How the heck did you get as far as installing the chain without this knowledge?

 

[Kioshk]

OOPS! Sorry MBR; he's all yours!

 

[Desert Rat]

Well I don't see how the clutch arm would work without the puller. My 10T sprocket doesn't turn even with the clutch held in when the cover is on. Something must be wrong. I know you have to pedal to start the engine, but my sprocket will not turn.

You have been given your answer but I will try to be clearer, That part does
NOT go on engine unless you are working on removing the sprocket, It does NOT mount to engine while running it, It is a tool!
you don't leave a wrench on a nut while your riding, do you???

 

[Will122391]

Great.... both parts are gone and the cylinder is empty.... I have a bearing that fits perfectly. Could I grind a bolt to size and use that instead of the bar?

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

On every new motor I take a flat bladed screw driver and lever it against the bottom screw boss for the sprocket cover to move the teeth on the 10 sprocket which breaks the clutch plate free.

The sprocket cover is on the fully assembled motor when you are doing this.

Some new motors don't need the clutch to be broken loose.

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

Great.... both parts are gone and the cylinder is empty.... I have a bearing that fits perfectly. Could I grind a bolt to size and use that instead of the bar?

The ball bearing is 8 mm OD or a 5/16" OD is close enough.

Are you sure the ball bearing isn't in the hole?
I use a magnet on a telescoping rod to remove the bearing.

A 5/16" OD drill bit or rod will work to make a bucking bar.
I don't remember the length?

 

[Will122391]

The ball bearing is 8 mm OD or a 5/16" OD is close enough.

A 5/16" OD drill bit or rod will work to make a bucking bar.

Well I know what I'm doing tomorrow Thanks for clearing it up for me. Do you by chance know the length of the bar?

 

[crassius]

as a side note, you won't get that sprocket to turn until you take the spark plug out

 

[Will122391]

I made the pin today and installed it, but when it is pushed it doesnt budge nor disengage the sprocket. Is that faulty? How am I supposed to pedal start it if the sprocket will not turn?

 

[crassius]

it needs to be pushed HARD - doubt you'll manage it except by putting it back together and using the clutch arm to push it

 

[Will122391]

it needs to be pushed HARD - doubt you'll manage it except by putting it back together and using the clutch arm to push it

Ahh that makes sense. I think the bucking bar I made is slightly short. I can't seem to find the length of it anywhere online.

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

Ahh that makes sense. I think the bucking bar I made is slightly short. I can't seem to find the length of it anywhere online.

Search using the Google Custom Search box under the BikeBerry ad above.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=40920

5/16" = 8 mm x 28 mm long
They can vary in length a bit.
A chewed up one off an older motor measured 26 mm

25.4 mm = 1"

Rounding over the sharp edges of the end of bucking bar that gets pushed
will make your clutch smoother.
You can grind the end that goes against the ball bearing to shorten it.
That end can be sharp as it is only pushing the ball bearing.

Also removing the small spring around the clutch cable behind the clutch
arm on the motor will make the pull lighter.
The internal clutch spring is strong enough to return the arm.

Oil the clutch cable and you will have a light pulling clutch lever on your
bars, they can be made light enough to be able to be pulled with your pinkie!

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

as a side note, you won't get that sprocket to turn until you take the spark plug out

On every new motor I take a flat bladed screw driver and lever it against the bottom screw boss for the sprocket cover to rotate the teeth on the 10 sprocket which breaks the clutch plate free.

Doing this will turn the motor over even if the plug is in and doesn't hurt
anything.

The sprocket cover is on the fully assembled motor when you are doing this.

Some new motors don't need the clutch plate to be broken loose.

 

[fatdaddy]

First, Make REAL SURE the bearing is still there behind the bucking bar. Without it the bar is just gonna get chewed up. Then shove some grease in the hole and push the bar back in. Then, just like you've been advised, Put a big flat screwdriver on the gear and pry it till it turns. Plug in, plug out, clutch in, clutch out, Don't matter. Unless your piston is seized right out of the box, (not very likely,) It WILL turn.
The bucking bar, (as I recall,) Sticks out from the engine 1/4 to 13/16" or so. When you put the cover on it will not just fit flat. You should have about 1/8" or so that you have to screw down with the cover. This will also tell you if you have the bucking bar the right lenght or not. Not every bar IS the same lenght. There are about 10 factory's in china making these things and although the specs are close, They're not all exactly the same. You can make one out of a drill bit. I've made several out of grade 8 bolts. Drill bits are harder though.
fatdaddy.

 

[Will122391]

Well I got the engine somewhat starting. As soon as I pop the clutch, the engine runs/dies for about a second. It never produces power, just dies off from the moment it I pop the clutch. Any ideas?

 

[crassius]

how are you using the choke?

sometimes they will try to start with the choke, but then need the choke off again for the next try (which usually works)

 

[Will122391]

I tried both up and down on the NT carb, but nothing. I have it wired kill switch black/black and red/blue. CDI is wired black/black, blue/blue