Jim transferred Manic Mechanic to George who still makes a coaster brake sprocket adapter at www.mmbikeparts.com
Multi speed or single?
- Thread starter geohaydook
- Start date
Personally, I'd choose a multi-gear for the better brakes and ease of installing the ragjoint or sprocket adapter.
Mostly for better brakes.
Mostly for better brakes.
Swap to a thumb operated lever shifter.
They are small and easy to find a good spot for.
Besides, you don't need to shift much anyway with a motor.
They are dirt cheap too if you want to buy new.
They are small and easy to find a good spot for.
Besides, you don't need to shift much anyway with a motor.
They are dirt cheap too if you want to buy new.
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Single speed with a drum brake laced into the from wheel. The 90mm drum brake by Sturmey Archer is nice. I geared my bike down so that when I run out of gas I can pedal anywhere with ease. You just go real slow.
With a motor, one speed is all you really need. Multi speed bikes are great but the complexity of the drive train is increased and there is more maintenance. The coaster brake on my bike is used as needed. Most of the braking occurs with the front drum brake. Coaster only is a risky proposition because they are prone to fading when used continuously.
I ride and live in a hilly area and i frequently use my pedals in conjunction with the friction drive set up I run. When the hills are so steep that peddling is required to get up the hills having braking options coming down them is crucial.
Whatever you do build a bike that meets your needs and requirements. After all you will be riding it and if it ticks all the right boxes you will ride it more.
With a motor, one speed is all you really need. Multi speed bikes are great but the complexity of the drive train is increased and there is more maintenance. The coaster brake on my bike is used as needed. Most of the braking occurs with the front drum brake. Coaster only is a risky proposition because they are prone to fading when used continuously.
I ride and live in a hilly area and i frequently use my pedals in conjunction with the friction drive set up I run. When the hills are so steep that peddling is required to get up the hills having braking options coming down them is crucial.
Whatever you do build a bike that meets your needs and requirements. After all you will be riding it and if it ticks all the right boxes you will ride it more.
bikbro,
I have a 28 tooth front sproket with a 18 tooth rear. I run a friction drive set up. Only one chain on my bike.
I have a 28 tooth front sproket with a 18 tooth rear. I run a friction drive set up. Only one chain on my bike.
On the rear I have a Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tire that has excellent puncture resistance. The front tire was the same but the side wall blew, right when I came to a stop. Timed that one well. The sidewall was cut by something. there is a 2 inch abrasion that didn't go all the way thru the sidewall. The owner of the LBS thinks my old caliper brake may have cut it if it wasn't lined up correctly. Who knows? The front tire is a Continental (which is puncture resistant) that was half the price of the rear and so far no flats.
You can also get heavy duty tubes that are about 4 times the thickness of a regular tube.
I am more worried about running out of fuel.
You can also get heavy duty tubes that are about 4 times the thickness of a regular tube.
I am more worried about running out of fuel.
Being sort of a retro grouch I'm of the opinion that either single speed in the form of a BMX freewheel with V-brakes front and rear, or a rear derailleur with a 5 speed freewheel cog, (not free hub..) with V-brakes would be OK. Also a non coasterbrake epicyclic geared hub like a SunRace/Sturmey-Sachs-Shimano 3 or 5 speed would be plenty of gearing. Keeping the weight down is one of the challenges of a motorized bicycle, the engines can often add almost 40% of the entire bike's wet weight, especially with the bigger 4-strokes.
I rarely pedal my motorized bikes, but...... I would not build a bike with the intention of never having to pedal it.Thanks Citi; i agree and that's why i ended up getting a shimano 7sp. my next build i'll look for a single sp with a freewheel. i don't need the extra controls taking up space on my handlebar plus i don't plan on peddling anyway
For one, if it can't be pedaled, it's not a bicycle. And two, when you run out of gas on the bike (which eventually you prolly will), you'll say to yourself......."what was I thinking"?
I'll never motorize a single-speed bike again. My current ride was my 3rd (and 4th) build and it was a single-speed chinagirl at first. Motor or not, there comes a time when the Chevrolegs need to be put to work on a bicycle. These little engines really get you moving when you have pedal torque behind em, too! My first two builds were high-geared Megarange-equipped multispeed bikes with single-speed 34T chinagirls and they were quite versatile from 15-40MPH, thanks to pedal power.
I now have a 5-speed shifter setup that is geared so that it features identical powerbands between engine and pedals, which results in amazing acceleration and fuel efficiency while pedaling. Cruise at engine torque peak with easy pedaling or storm at engine horsepower peak with big leg power. It will cruise at any speed from 5 to 35 with ease
I now have a 5-speed shifter setup that is geared so that it features identical powerbands between engine and pedals, which results in amazing acceleration and fuel efficiency while pedaling. Cruise at engine torque peak with easy pedaling or storm at engine horsepower peak with big leg power. It will cruise at any speed from 5 to 35 with ease
For me, the biggest reason not to build a single speed bike is the terrible coaster hubs and lack of brakes.
Even the cheap garbage 15-18 speed bikes have better hubs than most any single speed built after the 70's, plus having brakes on BOTH wheels matters a lot in a motorized build.
Even the cheap garbage 15-18 speed bikes have better hubs than most any single speed built after the 70's, plus having brakes on BOTH wheels matters a lot in a motorized build.
I have a disc on the front of My Pig. Don't even use it. I use the Vbrakes. They last longer, work just as well, and are cheap to replace.
My disc ate pads like a cannibal eats virgins and was prone to overheating, squealing like a neutered pig and warping. After the pads wore out, I just disconnected it.
As far as drums, while they look very cool, they don't give the power of a properly set up Vbrake and are FAR more expensive. Harder to service usually as well. Shoes can be VERY hard to find when they wear out.
My disc ate pads like a cannibal eats virgins and was prone to overheating, squealing like a neutered pig and warping. After the pads wore out, I just disconnected it.
As far as drums, while they look very cool, they don't give the power of a properly set up Vbrake and are FAR more expensive. Harder to service usually as well. Shoes can be VERY hard to find when they wear out.
Here is an exception for a single speed build and it has no coaster brake and really doesn't even need a rear brake as the engine does the braking when you let off the throttle.
I do run a front hydraulic disc brake as front braking is a must on this bike that exceeds 65+ mph. And I have raced this bike before with no rear brake at all and was just fine...
I would never install or rely on a coaster brake on a motorized bicycle......period! I wouldn't be here today if I did.
