Motorizing the schwinn

[Rocky_Motor]

I'm starting this thread to update as I build it.
I received the package and ended up with a silver motor instead of black. That was rather disappointing, I prefer the black powder coat much more. But I'm not going to bother sending it back. The gear thing is difficult to move with my finger engaged or disengaged. Not sure if normal or not or I'm doing it wrong but it does move the piston.

I already took the head off to clean the piston. There was gunk on it so it's better now, hopefully it helps. I can't continue tonight however since I forgot my allen wrenches ):
Blasted! I couldu tested if the clutch was disengaging while I had the head off.
It's a little nerv racking at first so far... Hoping it works and all.

With the head off and the other piece I don't know the name of. The flash made the black stuff disappear but there was a fair amount of it.

 

[GearNut]

Have you used an extension slipped over the end of the clutch release arm to get an appropriate leverage advantage on the strong clutch spring or have you just tried to use your fingers on it?
If you just push the release arm in with your fingers until it stops moving you have not yet begun to release the clutch. The clutch spring is quite powerful.

 

[Rocky_Motor]

Oh no, I definately pushed the clutch all the way, it goes all the way to that chrome piece that I think the clutch cable goes through. I found some allen wrenches and took the clutch cover off. I found when in its standard loosy goosey spot (I think engaged) the clutch plate can't be pushed. However when I crank the clutch arm all the way, I can push the plate in like an 8th inch maybe a little more im not sure. However I could still not push the sprocket on the motor.

One thing to note is that when I push the arm all the way it can actualy stay by itself till I give it a little force and it flings back to its standard untensioned position. Dunno if that is normal or not. Im still going to mount it I think though as the clutch plate does work correctly and just needs to get pushed by pedalling a bit for it to loosen up.

So it turns out my schwinn bike is far to small. Im going to put it on my girlfriends bike temporarily. Should fit great since it appears to be perfect frame and tube size. Just to get the motor working. And gotta find a good bike. May buy a new trek 820 for 300 bucks.. or save that for a build in the summer

 

[GearNut]

Ok, just making sure that you moved the lever sufficiently. Alot of new beginners think that when the lever travel meets the resistance of the spring it has reached the end of it's travel. They never actually release the clutch and think that it is jammed up.
You sir have done better than most!
As for the lever staying all by it self, all the way in, when the clutch is in the dis-engaged position, that is because you have hyper rotated the release mechanism to the point where the release cam inside the sprocket cover has been rotated to the point where the edge of the release cam has traveled past the bucking bar and the pressure is no longer on the edge of the release cam. It is now on the heel of the release cam, past the point of no return and that it why you need to give it a little help to get it to return to the engaged position.

Once the cam has met the pressure of the clutch spring, the end of the release arm where the cable attaches to only moves inwards about 1/2 to 5/8 inch. It never gets close to the cable stop that you used as a reference point.

The clutches are known for getting stuck while sitting in a box travelling on a slow boat from China then sitting on a shelf until sold.

Most of the time they will unstick after a few attempts at starting the engine or you can try http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22729

 

[Rocky_Motor]

You certainly know your stuff! I find it a wonder that people continue to buy china girls but no one ha yet to build and sell pocket bike motor mounts. Aren't they of superior build quality and can be find to close the same price?

So good news! I have a trek bicycle that I can use now. It's a steel frame I think and should fit the mounts very well. I do have a question though. If I take the cylinder off again, would it benefit me to put some 2 stroke oil into the crank area below the piston and maybe ontop of the piston with the cylinder on and the head off?

 

[Rocky_Motor]

Im putting it together right now. Gotta say, I don't have the darndest clue what im doing but I think im doing it right..
I cant figure out how to mount the downtube. The screws get stuck on it..

 

[GearNut]

You could put about 1/2 a teaspoon of pre-mix oil down into the crank case as that is approximately what would remain after running it for a good long ride, but it really won't be of any benefit because it will just be puddled on the bottom, doing nothing. The bearings and bits get lubed by the oil laden intake charge swirling and flowing around during the running process as the intake charge gets drawn into and expelled out of the crank cavity.

Definitely put a wafer thin coating of pre-mix oil on the cylinder as well as the piston skirts. Don't oil up the piston rings though, they will get plenty enough when you insert the piston back into the cylinder during re-assembly.

Oiling the top of the piston will be of no benefit.

 

[Rocky_Motor]

Alright that sounds good. That's relatively what I did but I wasn't quite sure if it made a difference
im very frustrated on how to do the cable for the carberatorr. As far as I can tell it's not making a difference. But I haven't tried running it yet. And my clutch arm only moves about a 1/4" to 1/2". Is that ok?

 

[GearNut]

1/4" travel seems a bit short. So long as the clutch completely releases and completely engages properly any travel is ok. What works depends on the clutch.

Which type of carbonator do you have? Norm has a really good how-to thread on making custom length throttle cables if you need to go that rout.

 

[Rocky_Motor]

An NT carb I believe. whatever I did is exactly how the instructions say to do it but it didn't appear to do anything but squeeze an already tight spring, tighter. I just put the muffler on. BARELY clears thank god. So really I think the last bit is getting this cluthc arm to pull a bit more and the carb setup corrected

 

[GearNut]

I have 3 NT's they are pretty simple. I can try to talk (type?) you through the cable-n-slide part if you want.
If the clutch functions as it should, don't be too concerned with the cable travel.

 

[Rocky_Motor]

I think it'll function right, but not with the button lock thing. But that's ok, my main concern is the throttle right now. I'll post pictures of it tomorrow. As it is, all I really need to do is get the chain on the motor somehow, get the carb cable built right, and adjust this and that and she's ready to roll for the first start.
maybe i'll have to order a chain breaker to do this chain. Also a masterlink cause apparently mine didn't come with one. It's a 415 chain btw, part of the kit on bikeberry.
I don't think my kit came with the fuel lever (petcoc?)... I do have a fuel filter from sbp though!

 

[F_Rod81]

With as much issues as you are having from the start; it sounds like you should have taken our advise and bought a kit from thatsdax.com. He would have given you a step-by-step walk through if it came to it. Being that your a local as well he could have assisted you even better. Despite the weather you could have been rolling by now. I have never been a fan of bikeberry because they have a history of problems and it sounds like they seem to continue. Best of luck with your project man, look forward to seeing you at our rides in the spring.

Frank

 

[Rocky_Motor]

I agree.. I wish I went with dax right about now. Not to mention bikeberry stole the instructions from thatsdax.com! I think. But he skips steps in the booklet, the website is still more informative.

So this is my carb..

Doesn't seem right at all. What I did is take the copper cylinder thing, then I put the needle into it, then the washer, then I put the cable through the cap screw thing, put the spring on too and squeezed it down so I put the end of the cable through the groove on the bottom of the copper cylinder. Then let the spring go so it goes down to push the washer down. I followed thatsdax instructions on it and it seems to be the same put the cable looks like it is already pulled to full throttle.. I guess that's the problem. So I must have the throttle grip wrong. blah


And the bike so far

I'm not sure how I'm going to break the chain without a chain breaker. And I can't put the other two bolts in the sprocket because the spokes are in the way. Sigh )=

 

[maintenancenazi]

^^ If you have a dremel tool or die grinder, you don't need a chain breaker. Just grind off the pin on both sides, then with a punch, or even a nail, hammer out the pin. Is your wheel a 36 spoke model? If not, that's why your bolts won't all go through!

 

[Rocky_Motor]

I'll try. I wish I had a garage to keep this in temporarily. Ugh. Maybe I can.
I don't think it is. Is it incredibly important to have 36? These spokes are decently thick atleast.

I think I got the carb setup correctly. Maybe

 

[maintenancenazi]

It is important actually. That 9 hole sprocket is DESIGNED to fit a 36 spoke wheel only, ether that or you can see if your hub will accept the Manic Mechanic adapter that bolts directly to the hub. This will only fit certain style hubs however, so that may not be an option with your currant hub.

I hear you about the garage, wish I still had one. My work shop these days is my spare bedroom!!

 

[Rocky_Motor]

It's a 32 spoke. Shoot ): i'll figure that part out. Guess I can't run it till next weekend till I come back with my dremel, a fuel valve and a new sprocketmounting device. I wonder if I can put the 26" wheel from my other bike onto this one. I believe it is 36 spokes on the other bike that is to small. Maybe get that pineapple adapter to make things much simpler
http://www.bikeberry.com/pineapple-sprocket-mounts.html Even though I don't really want to throw bikeberry more business.

The problem with the manic mechanic is I definitely need a bigger sprocket than 40tooth. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong website and there are bigger ones.

 

[Rocky_Motor]

Hey! I found an 8 bolt rag joint on thatsdax, that would work with 32 spoke?? I'm getting a carb union washer, the fuel valve
, another 415 chain.
http://www.thatsdax.com/ENGINE_KIT_PARTS_PAGE_2.html
at the bottom



Can someone link or describe to me how to do the chain without a breaker? Apparently I'm no good at finding things with the search.. I know there is stuff on it but can't find it anymore. Or a link to a breaker for the 415 chain?

 

[F_Rod81]

There are a few ways to remove links without a breaker, however, my recommendation that you is get a chain-breaker. They should be pretty cheap at the local hardware store. You don't want to chance messing up your chain and risk having to buy a new chain and chain-breaker anyway; when you could just buy a breaker and save yourself time, effort, and maybe a fingertip or 2, lol.