"kindalikeawhizzer"
- Thread starter silverbear
- Start date
Thanks, Curt.
I read someplace here on the forum where a builder cut down the fins and then with the engine running used a flat file to dress it up. Even so, I think I'll check it for balance just for
of mind. Then forget about it.
It's funny how I never really considered a Tecumseh for a build. Seemed like everybody was using a Briggs & Stratton if going for an old American made flathead. Mr. B. was an exception with his fine old Wisconsin, but those are hard to come by. These Tecumsehs are common enough in my neck of the woods and for this build it has worked out very nicely. It fits into the Schwinn cantilever frame well and with the electronics being under the flywheel a seven inch pan makes an easy flywheel cover. If someone offered to swap a 5 horse Briggs for my Tecumseh I'd say no thanks, happy with what I've got. I'm sure it will have plenty of grunt and top end for my needs even if the build eventually becomes a "Sociable". And I have a second Tecumseh just like the one I'm using thanks to you, sir. Nice to know there is a spare sitting on the shelf in case I need it. Or if I hand down this bike to one of my sons someday it will come with a spare engine.
Enjoy your holiday, my friend. And have fun tinkering out in your shop. It is insulated now if I remember right. Lucky you to have a good workshop!
SB
I read someplace here on the forum where a builder cut down the fins and then with the engine running used a flat file to dress it up. Even so, I think I'll check it for balance just for
of mind. Then forget about it.It's funny how I never really considered a Tecumseh for a build. Seemed like everybody was using a Briggs & Stratton if going for an old American made flathead. Mr. B. was an exception with his fine old Wisconsin, but those are hard to come by. These Tecumsehs are common enough in my neck of the woods and for this build it has worked out very nicely. It fits into the Schwinn cantilever frame well and with the electronics being under the flywheel a seven inch pan makes an easy flywheel cover. If someone offered to swap a 5 horse Briggs for my Tecumseh I'd say no thanks, happy with what I've got. I'm sure it will have plenty of grunt and top end for my needs even if the build eventually becomes a "Sociable". And I have a second Tecumseh just like the one I'm using thanks to you, sir. Nice to know there is a spare sitting on the shelf in case I need it. Or if I hand down this bike to one of my sons someday it will come with a spare engine.
Enjoy your holiday, my friend. And have fun tinkering out in your shop. It is insulated now if I remember right. Lucky you to have a good workshop!
SB
Marry Christmas to all here and you.
If you look at the cover for the points it might say the gap on there. Just remember to run it at idle for a while before you rev it to take off. Many a rod went out the side of the block on the newer ones. I think the H's were a good old one's though and shouldn't have to worry.
Love what you are doing.As i am a 4 stroke man...........Curt
If you look at the cover for the points it might say the gap on there. Just remember to run it at idle for a while before you rev it to take off. Many a rod went out the side of the block on the newer ones. I think the H's were a good old one's though and shouldn't have to worry.
Love what you are doing.As i am a 4 stroke man...........Curt
Well, there goes the breakfast frying pan. Breakfast at bike camp will never taste the same again. 
Excellent idea as well as a keen eye and there are some benefits to being single. Mrs. Silverbear, should there be one, may not have been as willing to let the favorite frying pan go.
I looked up buying a premade frame clamp that we can weld the rear engine mount to for the Kindalikeawhizzer and the really good ones are not inexpensive but thick enough to weld to and have the bolts set into themselves like the locking collars. Did I mention they were premade? Thinking that if we have the front mount coming down from the two bar cantilever part of the frame to the engine head bolts that would give you a solidly mounted engine.
Working on plans to connect the sociable part of the body to the rest.
Steve.
Excellent idea as well as a keen eye and there are some benefits to being single. Mrs. Silverbear, should there be one, may not have been as willing to let the favorite frying pan go.
I looked up buying a premade frame clamp that we can weld the rear engine mount to for the Kindalikeawhizzer and the really good ones are not inexpensive but thick enough to weld to and have the bolts set into themselves like the locking collars. Did I mention they were premade? Thinking that if we have the front mount coming down from the two bar cantilever part of the frame to the engine head bolts that would give you a solidly mounted engine.
Working on plans to connect the sociable part of the body to the rest.
Steve.
Thanks Curt.
And fear not, fasteddy, there are more frying pans for summer camp. And thank you sir for giving thought to the engine mounts. Consensus seems to be that the antennae mounts are not up to the task with this engine. They will do for now in setting things up and even for giving the engine a start up come spring time. Do you have a link for the fittings you referred to?
You like the idea of the Sociable, eh? Me, too. I've been thinking about the canoe body and how the sides could be built up higher from the windshield and dashboard on back. They could bolt to the gunnel and give more leg room that way. With wooden side and stern extensions it would look nice with the brown paint job on the bike. Just thinking. Boat seats would work as there are lots of them around up this way. Fun to think about.
SB
And fear not, fasteddy, there are more frying pans for summer camp. And thank you sir for giving thought to the engine mounts. Consensus seems to be that the antennae mounts are not up to the task with this engine. They will do for now in setting things up and even for giving the engine a start up come spring time. Do you have a link for the fittings you referred to?
You like the idea of the Sociable, eh? Me, too. I've been thinking about the canoe body and how the sides could be built up higher from the windshield and dashboard on back. They could bolt to the gunnel and give more leg room that way. With wooden side and stern extensions it would look nice with the brown paint job on the bike. Just thinking. Boat seats would work as there are lots of them around up this way. Fun to think about.
SB
Silverbear, I said your flywheel would be amazing and I was right
You are indeed the master sensi of repurposed objects.
You are indeed the master sensi of repurposed objects.
Here is the clamp I'm talking about. Try the seat left over from the tri car when you get a chance and see if it fits. I still have the patterns.
Steve.
http://www.kartek.com/media/images/Small/POP-311205_1.jpg
Steve.
http://www.kartek.com/media/images/Small/POP-311205_1.jpg
Steve,
That's a lot like the split collars we used for both engine mounts and jack shaft mounts on the Elgin Velocipede. But those had just two bolts where this one has six. Yes, I can see that it would be secure and give more surface area to weld a mount to. We'd need a pair of them. Where did you find them and how expensive are they? I like that the frame would not be welded to, leaving it original which was part of the reasoning on the old Elgin.
One day soon I'll get the tri-car seat out and set it in the canoe for a look. Might be too big. Might be just right. What do you think about extending the sides and stern on the canoe? Even six inches would make a difference. A foot higher would give a lot more leg room. I'll give it a coffee cup's worth of stare to imagine how that might look. A nice dark wood might blend in with the kind of mahogany color of the bike and help tie sociable and bike together visually. Might work...
SB
That's a lot like the split collars we used for both engine mounts and jack shaft mounts on the Elgin Velocipede. But those had just two bolts where this one has six. Yes, I can see that it would be secure and give more surface area to weld a mount to. We'd need a pair of them. Where did you find them and how expensive are they? I like that the frame would not be welded to, leaving it original which was part of the reasoning on the old Elgin.
One day soon I'll get the tri-car seat out and set it in the canoe for a look. Might be too big. Might be just right. What do you think about extending the sides and stern on the canoe? Even six inches would make a difference. A foot higher would give a lot more leg room. I'll give it a coffee cup's worth of stare to imagine how that might look. A nice dark wood might blend in with the kind of mahogany color of the bike and help tie sociable and bike together visually. Might work...
SB
I used the common split lock collars the hang the 125cc Lifan engine on one of my builds. They have proven over the years to be substantial enough to handle the rigors of an 8+hp 4 speed engine with up and down shifting. Once the location is determined just weld the back half to the frame the other to the engines mount. Removing installing the engine is then a snap with only 4 bolts.
cb2,
I suspect that the split collar you used is adequate even without it being welded to the frame. The ones we used on the Elgin are rock solid. And with this engine being tied to the frame at three points in a rough triangle I doubt there would be any movement. At the same time going a bit stronger than necessary might be a good insurance policy. Welding directly to the frame is less an issue for me on this 1951 cantilever Schwinn than it was with the 1934 Elgin. One is relatively commonplace and the other pretty rare. And this kind of weld is not irreversible. Cut it off, grind it down and repaint. I kind of doubt this bike will ever again be a pedal bike. My hope is that it will be around as a light motorcycle long after I've returned to my home planet.
SB
I suspect that the split collar you used is adequate even without it being welded to the frame. The ones we used on the Elgin are rock solid. And with this engine being tied to the frame at three points in a rough triangle I doubt there would be any movement. At the same time going a bit stronger than necessary might be a good insurance policy. Welding directly to the frame is less an issue for me on this 1951 cantilever Schwinn than it was with the 1934 Elgin. One is relatively commonplace and the other pretty rare. And this kind of weld is not irreversible. Cut it off, grind it down and repaint. I kind of doubt this bike will ever again be a pedal bike. My hope is that it will be around as a light motorcycle long after I've returned to my home planet.
SB
Here is a link to a seller who has 1" clamps. They may well be overkill.
Steve
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...HMaeY2J4fYgG8dg&bvm=bv.82001339,d.cGU&cad=rja
Steve
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...HMaeY2J4fYgG8dg&bvm=bv.82001339,d.cGU&cad=rja
I think you're right about being overkill. The price is certainly over the top. I think we should figure on the same kind we got before and weld them to the frame like CB2 did. With the weld they aren't going anywhere. Where did we get those, do you remember? I don't.
SB
SB
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Double-Sp...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item35db8409d4
Found these in black oxide finish which should be easier to weld to than the ones we used before. What do you think?
Should we get three of them or do the upper brace deal another way? As you said, come from the double crossbar or even use the U bolt I have now. There isn't much stress on the upper mount.
SB
Found these in black oxide finish which should be easier to weld to than the ones we used before. What do you think?
Should we get three of them or do the upper brace deal another way? As you said, come from the double crossbar or even use the U bolt I have now. There isn't much stress on the upper mount.
SB
The advantage of the weld is that everything returns to its proper position after engine removal. That was especially important on the Lifan bike as it had a good many things attached to hard points on the frame.
If you use more than two, then maybe weld only the key two mounts, and leave the others un-welded to allow a bit of "float".
If you use more than two, then maybe weld only the key two mounts, and leave the others un-welded to allow a bit of "float".
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I concur with cannonball as to the thought behind the motor mounts, obviously because that is what I have done on my chopper re-build. The thought that one good fixed mount and then have a little flexibility with the other should work just fine. Time will tell.
Dan
Dan
Hey Silverbear,
Merry Christmas brother. You may have this all figured out already, but I got a good tip from msrfan a while ago regarding balancing the flywheel. There is a simple little tool called a lawn mower blade balancer. It is basically a stepped cone that sits on a nail-like pivot. You place your flywheel on the cone spin it around a bit, and the flywheel will lean to one side if it is off-balance. This side is the heavy side and must be lightened. You then grind off material until the flywheel sits level on the balancer.
I have really enjoyed watching your build, there's something about watching the organic progression of ideas turning into a reality that is not pre-planned that is really appealing to me. It makes me want to start another build, which is something I have never planned on doing, my wife is already at her limit with me having the one bike.
Anyway, thanks for the vicarious enjoyment of a "figure it out as you go" build. I look forward to seeing all the next steps and reports of the first ride this coming spring.
You are a wonderful asset to our community and I am glad that you have shared your work with us.
Keep on keeping on,
Gilbert
Gilbert,
Your gift of kind words on Christmas morning is a fine thing, much appreciated. And I do sense a kinship in our approaches to bike building. Your new/old creation remains one of my all time favorites. Merry Christmas...
SB
Your gift of kind words on Christmas morning is a fine thing, much appreciated. And I do sense a kinship in our approaches to bike building. Your new/old creation remains one of my all time favorites. Merry Christmas...
SB
Merry Christmas all!
Yep the blade balancer will work well to balance the flywheel. I poured lead into the back of a mower flywheel once to mod it for use on a bike engine. It balanced to perfection on the balancer. I also had a prop balancer that was very simple. It was basically a cone suspended by a small rope. It centered into the props center hole. You then laid a line level on the center line, then the cross line. Simple and worked well.
Yep the blade balancer will work well to balance the flywheel. I poured lead into the back of a mower flywheel once to mod it for use on a bike engine. It balanced to perfection on the balancer. I also had a prop balancer that was very simple. It was basically a cone suspended by a small rope. It centered into the props center hole. You then laid a line level on the center line, then the cross line. Simple and worked well.
Marry Christmas all!
Yep have a couple of them balancers ( can't find one you go by another ). Thanks Gbrebes for that just never thought of using it for flywheel. You need to get your wife on your bike for a ride them you will have to build another? Its much better to build then to sit in a bar and waist your time......LOVE your bike..............Curt
Yep have a couple of them balancers ( can't find one you go by another ). Thanks Gbrebes for that just never thought of using it for flywheel. You need to get your wife on your bike for a ride them you will have to build another? Its much better to build then to sit in a bar and waist your time......LOVE your bike..............Curt
