Got a used whizzer, can’t get it to run properly, any advice?
Hi new to this site.
- Thread starter Markeltini
- Start date
Pictures and a description of the problem. Without any of this all one can do is guess as to what it might be. Did you crank it up and test ride it before you purchased it????
It ran when I bought it, but it didn’t run well. It had a carburetor off a two stroke. I got a new carburetor from Paul, and it will fire but won’t keep running.
Welcome to the forum, I’ve never owned a whizzer so I have no first hand knowledge. I would start at the new carburetor since it ran with the other one. Is it a new or used carburetor? If it’s used I would disassemble it and clean all passages, varnish build up is the most common problem with small engine carburetors.
Did the tank already have gas in it? What did the fuel filter look like? Are you running ethanol free gas???
Here's a list of California stations that have e-free gas. With some research, I'm sure more could be found.
Pure-gas.org - ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada
Pure-gas.org is the definitive web site listing stations that sell pure gasoline in the U.S. and Canada.
Jerry is right about ethanol free gas. Most any town near a stock car track has 90+ e-free'
Sea Foam is useful. Sea Foam | Makers of Sea Foam Motor Treatment & other engine products (seafoamworks.com)
Tom
Sea Foam is useful. Sea Foam | Makers of Sea Foam Motor Treatment & other engine products (seafoamworks.com)
Tom
Thanks for the info, got worn out today trying to pedal it
Post some pictures of the new carb you put on it (& the old carb).
It ran at high idle with the old carb, it got me around the block but if I tried to give it throttle it didn’t like it.
Attachments
Start by checking the valve lash IN .008 EX .010
What size carb did you get from Paul
BTW how many miles on your WC-1
Timing dot on the cam gear was stamped one tooth retarded on purpose by Whizzer for EPA reasons
The cam may of already been advanced by the previous owner, but check anyways
Take off the RH side cover and advance the cam gear by lining up the cam timing dot to the crank timing dot one tooth counter clockwise, This puts the cam in the correct timing position
Last edited:
How about posting more pictures of the other side of the carb (& also the pictures of the old carb that I asked for)...
I'm asking for lots of pictures because they might help someone spot a problem!
I'm asking for lots of pictures because they might help someone spot a problem!
Not that I know much about Whizzer Engines, but see that air filter and exhaust/muffler are not clogged.
As Click & Clack would say nothing can go out if nothing can go in.
Two of my Briggs 4 stroke engines had problem trying to use foam airfilter. Had that effect of only running short time. I bought the holder to switch to paper airfilter used part on Ebay. Got it back to running.
Valve lash every 5 years it has the gap go to zero on intake. Exhaust some of that too going to less lash.
With intake lash getting smaller eventually I get wet paper air filter. This is the result of venturi effect in opposite direction. Intake valve open too long into compression stroke on a 4 stroke engine. Wet paper airfilter starves engine for air intake.
Two stroke engine on a Lawn Boy Mower had grass and carbon at the exhaust. The build up that cause back pressure after just about 1 second of run time and then stall out, was fixed by cleaning that junk out. Have to credit my Dad about that fix. I was messing with ignition which was wrong in this particular case.
MT
As Click & Clack would say nothing can go out if nothing can go in.
Two of my Briggs 4 stroke engines had problem trying to use foam airfilter. Had that effect of only running short time. I bought the holder to switch to paper airfilter used part on Ebay. Got it back to running.
Valve lash every 5 years it has the gap go to zero on intake. Exhaust some of that too going to less lash.
With intake lash getting smaller eventually I get wet paper air filter. This is the result of venturi effect in opposite direction. Intake valve open too long into compression stroke on a 4 stroke engine. Wet paper airfilter starves engine for air intake.
Two stroke engine on a Lawn Boy Mower had grass and carbon at the exhaust. The build up that cause back pressure after just about 1 second of run time and then stall out, was fixed by cleaning that junk out. Have to credit my Dad about that fix. I was messing with ignition which was wrong in this particular case.
MT
Am I missing something here ? The picture of the engine shows the carb mounted on the side of the cylinder like a 2 cycle. Everyone keeps talking about valve settings, what valves ? The replacement carb is a better carb, but make sure it’s level.
