Fuel Mix Ratios

GoldenMotor.com

drhofferber

New Member
Jun 22, 2008
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Well I ran the engine and didn't have any gas handy what wasn't already mix so I didn't blow it up with a 100 to 1 mix.
I was not impressed with it I left off the base gasket and used a sealant for the base gasket must of been to little or too much advance on ports as it was the biggest dog I've built would not idle unless the idle screw was all the in. **** the light would even kill it first time I've had that happen and changing the plug and coil didn't help so I took it back off and put the old engine back on the bike lights and bike back to normal. I'll try putting on a base gasket later and try it again. I know its a new engine and would run better after getting it broke in. No power on take off and didn't make any until about half way wound out and then stumble at wide open. I used the carb off the engine that was already on the bike and with that engine the carb works very very well. So sometime in the future I'll play with it again unless I or someone needs some parts off it.
I didn't even get my dress above my knees in the testing.laff
Norman
norman...i'm breaking in a 50 slant for the winter build off using a ngk 5 plug...temp 45 to 50...i changed from regular oil to amsol sabre.after break in and running around 80 to 1....now i have went to 50 to 1 buy mistake in both engines and i couldnt get the engine to start...the gas mixture is a dark blue and its to much...so far the 50 slant is running and its around 70 to 1...at break in...i have a 80 slant waiting in the wings if something happens...but i'll be the ginny pig and let everyone know...amsol is very sensitive as far as mixture(density)...but this oil seems great...hope this helps...Dennis
 

Down_South

New Member
Aug 28, 2008
140
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North Carolina
Wow, its been a while, but I checked the condition of my spark plug the other day (NGK BPR6HS) and it's a chocolate brown alright! I must have the right configuration for this engine. I have the jet needle set to position 2 of 5 (5 being the lowest position) and 32:1 mix with conventional air cooled 2 cycle oil. I'm pleased overall, only I'd like to know more about the bearing on the back clutch plate. I've had issues with the ball bearings falling out. I have a few hypotheses as to what's going on, but I'd like to know if anyone else has had issues like this?
 

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
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pampa texas
you asking about the bearing that is in the clutch assembly? I have a few pictures in the classic posts on the total engine tear down and after taking that friggin thing apart I would say do not take it apart as those bearings will go to the far reaches of space when you get it apart and its a bear to get it all back together. Now if you want to take the shaft out that the clutch and rear sprocket ride on and your having problems with bearing comming out of there, then you need new bearings and they can be bought in a shop that sells bearing.
Bottom line you should not have loose ball bearings slinging around in the clutch area.
 

Down_South

New Member
Aug 28, 2008
140
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North Carolina
Yep,the bearing that is in the clutch assembly tends to fall apart from time to time. I clean the race with WD-40 as it liquefies any grease. I then dry the race and gather the ball bearings with a magnet. The trick to get all those ball bearings into the assembly is easily overlooked. I take the cleaned race and cover it with MP grease, then I place the ball bearings into the grease (which holds them in the race). I center up the plate and the race. I use a piece of 2" PVC to tap the race into its seated position with a rubber mallet. I'd like to know where to buy these tiny little ball bearings and how to keep the race from popping out.
 
Sep 20, 2008
1,668
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Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
Yep,the bearing that is in the clutch assembly tends to fall apart from time to time. I clean the race with WD-40 as it liquefies any grease. I then dry the race and gather the ball bearings with a magnet. The trick to get all those ball bearings into the assembly is easily overlooked. I take the cleaned race and cover it with MP grease, then I place the ball bearings into the grease (which holds them in the race). I center up the plate and the race. I use a piece of 2" PVC to tap the race into its seated position with a rubber mallet. I'd like to know where to buy these tiny little ball bearings and how to keep the race from popping out.
The bearings are metric: 2mm. Miller bearings will have them. The ring that holds the assembly together is supposed to be a press fit, not a light tap with PVC. The press should be close enough so that the gear, doesn't wobble, or lock-up.

Jim
 

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
38
71
pampa texas
next time you have to reassemble the thing see if you can find loctite stud and bearing liquid or what ever its called where the 2 parts press together put a very thin coating on those surfaces and press it together that might help keep it form coming apart. You must of gotten a very sloppy set of parts as they should not do that. Or see if you can buy a new assembly and trash can the one that keeps coming apart or for orneryness send it back to the seller with a note asking for better quality control.
but keep the good parts pads ball bearings etc.
Just kidding on sending it back, if its still new you could ask if the seller will replace that part.
Norman