clutch cable holder under carburator broke off

[davidguest]

As you see in the picture it broke of i dont know how i think it was weak but as you see if tried to glue it back but it didnt work. I did find out i can just press it the clutch arm just with my hand because i dont use the clutch alot. but if there is maybe an alternative way to fix this without buying a whole new engine?
Also i dont know if it has a other function than just holding the clutch cable so if there is tell me please. And another thing is to will it interfere with the crankshaft because i can see it from that broken hole. I would be glad if any of you guys could answer some questions of mine.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

There was a guy on here years ago who was selling home made clutch cable 'rollers' that would solve your problem.
He's long gone now (& I can't find any links to what he was making); but basically, he used a small L-angle steel plate on the other side of the engine & screwed a metal screen door roller to the top of it that the cable went around to the clutch lever.

 

[davidguest]

There was a guy on here years ago who was selling home made clutch cable 'rollers' that would solve your problem.
He's long gone now (& I can't find any links to what he was making); but basically, he used a small L-angle steel plate on the other side of the engine & screwed a metal screen door roller to the top of it that the cable went around to the clutch lever.

Wouldve been really cool if that guy still sold that. i Wonder why he stopped.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Wouldve been really cool if that guy still sold that. i Wonder why he stopped.

He hasn't been on this forum in years...

Here's a quick sketch of what he made... It's real easy to make... It's a small piece of L- angle steel, with a metal screen door wheel & a cable holder that's bolted to the engine side cover.

 

[davidguest]

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He hasn't been on this forum in years...

Here's a quick sketch of what he made... It's real easy to make... It's a small piece of L- angle steel, with a metal screen door wheel & a cable holder that's bolted to the engine side cover.




View attachment 113773

thanks for making a sketch for me really appreciate it.
that design is really smart and clever so when you drop the clutch it doesnt need the springs to kick it back?
I might to be able to make something similair thanks for sharing this with me.

 

[Greg58]

I would use a throttle cable turned around with the curved tube at the engine. Cut the small end off and slide the cable out and insert it opposite, a clamp on the top side cover would hold it in place. It would probably work.

 

[Greg58]

After looking at one of my engines I would use a longer bolt on the clutch cover and use a 6mm nut to hold the clamp, it’s the same way the chain guard mounts.

 

[zean]

Yes, another good idea, thank you both, or maybe instead of the curved tube with the throttle cable, a V brake cable noodle with the original clutch cable might work. At any rate, I believe the set up using the sliding screen door wheel will work with less friction.

 

[davidguest]

He hasn't been on this forum in years...

Here's a quick sketch of what he made... It's real easy to make... It's a small piece of L- angle steel, with a metal screen door wheel & a cable holder that's bolted to the engine side cover.




View attachment 113773

I have found a solution to my problem. I used to idea to screw a thing to the clutch cover of the engine and i screwed a door hinges with 2 holes on both sides.
The door hinges rests on the clutch cover and gets stretched out by a zip tie thats connected with the intake manifold (dont worry the zip ties are made out of nylon and they withstand heat pretty wel) And i put the cable trough under the carb and to the arm. The clutch is now better than it even was its also pretty stable. Thank you for helping me and giving me an idea.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

I have found a solution to my problem. I used to idea to screw a thing to the clutch cover of the engine and i screwed a door hinges with 2 holes on both sides.
The door hinges rests on the clutch cover and gets stretched out by a zip tie thats connected with the intake manifold (dont worry the zip ties are made out of nylon and they withstand heat pretty wel) And i put the cable trough under the carb and to the arm. The clutch is now better than it even was its also pretty stable. Thank you for helping me and giving me an idea.

That's not going to last very long!
The cable making that hard turn down through the hole is going to cause problems real fast.

It looks like you have a basic design that can work, 'given a little more imagination'... Go find a nice small piece of flat steel & bend it with a hammer into a nice Z shape with a hole on each end that will let the cable work in a straighter line to the clutch arm.

 

[Mossy]

What about replace the bolt...

Or am I missing something?
I've been getting stuff together for a hydraulic clutch slave from a pit bike for something like that and also for brakes

 

[Mossy]

He hasn't been on this forum in years...

Here's a quick sketch of what he made... It's real easy to make... It's a small piece of L- angle steel, with a metal screen door wheel & a cable holder that's bolted to the engine side cover.




View attachment 113773

Some wheels for 1/8" rigging for a sailboat would do it

 

[Greg58]

Mossy the chineseum case crumbled.

 

[Mossy]

Mossy the chineseum case crumbled.

Cases are available... And why I'm building from parts... I've got these in 66/80 and YD100 from new Jersey... No more bad geometry cable...