Clutch cable breakage... what am i missing.. ?

[Bobaganoosh]

Heya gang, little background, this is my first bike, built it about 3 weeks ago. I've been reading the forums, gleening all the info I can without asking too many questions. But I seem to have hit a snag here. It would seem that no matter what I do, I'm going through about a clutch cable a week. It's a 66cc with the 44t sprocket, so, I barely use the clutch to run around my little town. I run stop signs and whatever I can to keep from touching that lever. I've made adjustments to the eye-bolt with the hollow screw through it, it doesn't seem to be tall enough. It comes over the clutch cover past the jug, and I can tell the angle of insertion is just too drastic. Not from side to side, but from top down. If the eyebolt were taller, it would seem that I could get a better angle on the whole deal. Are there some after-market tubing guides or anything that I haven't found? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Oh btw, I didn't know the world of motorized bicycling even existed before buying my Panama Jack. So yea, sorry I'm not building anything cool..

 

[chrisE]

http://motorbicycling.com/f11/pant-legs-11627-4.html
read post # 35, and look at pics. i also removed the clutch return spring (the one between the clutch actuator arm and the cable guide- if you already havent) which seems to have no real use as the clutch springs have enough tension to return on its own, it also creates more tension on the clutch cable possibly adding to the cable failing prematurely. well good luck and happy motoring.

 

[Jeco]

That's how I did on mine. It works fine, less effort on the lever. Not sure how it compares with the roller mod though.

 

[BarelyAWake]

This may help: http://motorbicycling.com/f30/brake-noodles-clutch-throttle-clearance-problems-13715.html

I've used the stock, kit clutch cable on all my builds w/o any roller mods (not using the extra spring & repositioning the clutch arm in a spline or two to clear pant leg & provide better angle of pull), but I will say the cables themselves are dry as a bone fresh outa the kit and need copious amounts of lubrication before they'll move freely. Another common problem is cable routing - you don't want a bend any tighter than what would make a 6" circle or it'll drag & bind.

With the above & baird's brake noodle idea - I've never had to replace a cable & I can easily pull my clutch(es) with just one finger, it's really a matter of proper routing & lube (including a touch o'greasy goodness on the actuator), I see no need for aftermarket mods like rollers *shrug*

 

[bairdco]

i was gonna say, use a brake noodle, but BA beat me too it. i do this on all my bikes, it works awesome, and gets rid of the ugly cable routing loop, too.

 

[2door]

The "eye bolt" the man is talking about is adjustable on early engines. There is a jamb nut on it that when loosened will allow the cable guide to be unscrewed upward to give more heigth to the cable path. Just watch that you leave enough thread to hold things together then retighten the jamb nut. Many of the engines I've worked on come from the factory with the cable guide screwed almost all the way down and will indeed cause the cable to be lower than the clutch actuator lever as he describes.
Also we can't stress enough the importance of lubrication. The cable, the handlebar lever and the moving parts inside the clutch actuator cover. There is a pin, a ball bearing and the clutch cam, sometimes called the bucking bar that need a good application of grease. Good luck.
Tom

 

[Bobaganoosh]

Thank you all so much for the information. The brake noodle is exactly what I had in mind, however, having no motorcycle or motorbike experience, I would have never suspected that would be the name of what I was looking for. Back to the bike.. hehe.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

That's how I did on mine. It works fine, less effort on the lever. Not sure how it compares with the roller mod though.

What I've found out about the roller mod (I make them or will tell you how to) is that the pull on the clutch handle to disengage the clutch is so low that you can use your pinkie finger. I tested my first instillation with 6# test mono fishing line. Heck that is more then I use for Bass fishing (4#) but a lot less then the majority of bass fisherman use.

... The ones I now make are mounted closer to the brazed nut.

I've never used the noodle so I can't give an honest review between the two.