Billet Aluminum Intake vs Steel Intake

[YoungRatRod]

Which is better? JNmotors.com Billet Aluminum intake manifold or a regular steel intake?

I only ask this because my aluminum stock intake cracked so I must buy a new one

I heard the aluminum heats and cools differently causing it to warp

 

[richirich]

go with the billit manifold. it is already port matched perfectly. the gasket might have to be opened up to match.and i dont think it would even be possible to crack it. i have one from JNMotors and im satisfied..

 

[YoungRatRod]

Yeah thats what I was thinkin' it seems alot more solid than the stock but then again, anything would seem solid compared to stock

 

[BarelyAWake]

While the billet aluminum may be better than the stock aluminum intake, it's a debatable point as to if it's "better" than the stock steel one...

As with all the stock items quality is variable and the stock intake may need to be "finished" - to make sure the fasteners seat flush and the port is matched, but I've also never heard of a steel intake failing. Fasteners or carb perhaps, but not the intake itself.

There's also carb angle, the aftermarket billet intakes are made straight to facilitate their construction as it's far easier - but depending on the build, this my leave your carb at a rather extreme angle, contributing to fuel starvation issues.

Last but not least there's the inner diameter - a stock steel intake will have a larger inner diameter given it's thinner walls than the aluminum ones, the steel one being closer to matching the ID of the venturi contributing to greater flow (NT & Speed) while this is negated somewhat by the gentle bend in the stock intake, but added in with all the other factors it becomes very questionable as to if the aftermarket billet is any "better" than the stock steel one...

...so, it becomes dependent on build type (angle) and and personal preference really (bling factor)

 

[2door]

Billet, is one of those buzz words used in the automotive/motorcycle community and when a manufacturer tags his parts with the word he can be assured that there will be a certain segment who will buy it and swear to its superiority over its cast or welded counterparts. Just because a part was machined from a hunk of solid material (billet) doesn't necessarily make it "better". In theory, the aftermarket "billet" intake manifolds are touted as providing more horsepower and all too often those who are impressed and taken in by the claims that "billet" is better will swear that their engines run stronger because of the material their intake manifolds are made from. This goes hand in hand with the fallacy that loud exhaust means the bike is faster. The psychology of these beliefs is more responsible for the speed and power claims than any actual increases in engine output.
I will agree that the early cast aluminum manifolds have had their problems in the way of cracks and breakage, especially when people try to open them up in attempts to "port match" them to the cylinder. The cast components are not the best choice for those reasons.
The welded steel intakes will do everything the overpriced machined aluminum parts will do and you won't be faced with oddball carburetor angles. Do what was suggested by Barely Awake. Clean up the gasket flanged surfaces, make sure the weld beads will allow for proper fastener contact and go enjoy your bike.
Tom

 

[F_Rod81]

The psychology of these beliefs is more responsible for the speed and power claims than any actual increases in engine output.

I have had the MM shorty intake for about a year now, I haven't thought negative about it since then. It doesn't give any extra horsepower as others may claim, but with the port matched flange and shorter fuel delivery it does add a noticeable difference when a crack of the throttle is given, its more responsive and more consistent throughout. The offset angle of the carb can be debated, depending on the way the motor is mounted. I myself have never had any fuel starvation issues at any rpm range due to the 9 degree offest. Anybody with time & patience can make a port-matched shorty intake with the factory steel manifold. I think these were made to save time and efforts for the inexperienced, but for only a few bucks more then a replacement stock intake, why not?

As far as exhaust goes, any expansion chamber that is properly tuned will free up some power and help make the engine run optimally for 2 strokes, but they can be loud sometimes. Most, if not, all of the bolt-on aftermarket parts will not add any HP or torque as claimed, they just help free up what is already there. The tuning capabilities of the individual is what makes a difference in real world feel, power-bands and many other factors. The way to actually add break HP in any type of application (car, motorcycle, motorbike, boat, ect) is with forced induction or internal engine modifications.

2door is just getting old and the loud pipes hurt his ears and probably makes his dog(s) mad. Just kidding Tom, lots of respect for you my friend.