it kept snaping the cheap 6mm blots tapped out and replased with 5/16 grade 8 bolts no breakige now i don't have any vibration or bent crank the engine is fine !!!! cheap factory 6mm bolts!!!!!!!!!If you are breaking grade 5 and grade 8 fasteners you have some serious vibration issues caused by an out-of-balance, or a bent crankshaft. These little two strokes do not provide enough torque to compromise standard or upgraded hardware. Either you have improperly installed the engine or you have a crank problem. If you're using rubber or any resilient material between the engine and the bike frame that will increase your vibration and hasten the failure of fasteners. Solid mount the engine and securely attach the exhaust manifold with the proper fasteners and torque. Grade 12 fasteners should NOT be used for any application on a motorized bicycle, motorcycle or automobile. Like that man said, you might as well use fasteners made of glass. Grade 5 is sufficient and grade 8 is just a comfort factor.
Tom
cheap factory bolts no thanks!!!!!!!!!!The funny thing is we have people call and email to ask us about our hardware kits. Here is what they say basically (or some form of this): "I won't buy your (blank) engine hardware kit because all the hardware is not grade (8,10,12 pick a number)" OR "It's not ALL stainless steel". In a way this is kinda cool because we can explain a little about threaded fasteners and how super high tensile strength is not always best or stainless is not the steel of choice for fasteners in all cases.
On special the full kit is $8.95. Considering some high grade specialized screws and such can be $4 each and above, a full kit of hardware for under $10 just doesn't seem that bad.
read the post !!!!!! it was snaping those cheap factoy 6mm bolts that aren't worth the threads the chineese put on themi,m sorry but this sounds like a low budget science fiction movie to me
how are you snapping gr5-gr8 bolts
theories
1) your bolts are loose
2) your using stainless bolts
3) the bolts aren,t actually the grade you say
4) the holes thru the parts you are bolting together aren,t square to each other
5) aliens intercepted you engine while it was being shipped and replaced it with an indestructable titanium based alloy thet looks just like the white metal the original case was made of , just so they could watch you from space and belly laugh every time you break a bolt
piece of steal curled under th rear mount attached to the rear post with to c claps works very good easy to make ...umm, it's very hard to see what you've done here. how about a few shots starting from far away and from different angles
Dude I agree, but are you saying SBP HW kits are "cheap factory bolts"?cheap factory bolts no thanks!!!!!!!!!!
yepper look at them they're the same crappy 6mm bolts there JUNK!!!! i up graded and made a brace under my back mount no prblems 200miles still strong!!!Dude I agree, but are you saying SBP HW kits are "cheap factory bolts"?
No they aren't factory bolts and studs. I think you are confused. I know for a fact, you are quite wrong.yepper look at them they're the same crappy 6mm bolts there JUNK!!!!
The funny thing is we have people call and email to ask us about our hardware kits. Here is what they say basically (or some form of this): "I won't buy your (blank) engine hardware kit because all the hardware is not grade (8,10,12 pick a number)" OR "It's not ALL stainless steel". In a way this is kinda cool because we can explain a little about threaded fasteners and how super high tensile strength is not always best or stainless is not the steel of choice for fasteners in all cases.
On special the full kit is $8.95. Considering some high grade specialized screws and such can be $4 each and above, a full kit of hardware for under $10 just doesn't seem that bad.
me niether!!!!!This may be a little off topic but I have tried out 2-sets
of SBP engine bolts. This is the expierance I had with their
engine bolts.
1. Rear motor mount- they do bend when tightening or streatch
but I have not had one snap.
2.Frount mount- I use the SBP front universal adapter plate mount.
3. Magneto cover- I can not use because they do not fit properly on
my engine
4. Clutch Cover- They fit properly but ended up pulling hole threads
out of a couple when loosing.
5. Exhaust AND INTAKE - Good Product ... I like
6. Sprocket Cover- Good FIT
7. Engine case- I did not get them to fit properly
With this experiance, No I would not buy the complete engine bolt
kit from them but it would be nice for them to seperate and sell seperate.
i see what you're saying. Personally, I ride a 654cc single cylinder motorcycle everyday to work, so nothing these little engine do towards "vibration experienced by the operator" is a concern for meThere are two schools of thought on this and both have their merits. You can attempt to isolate your engine from the frame by using rubber. The effect is that it can reduce the vibration transferred to the frame and the rider will feel less vibration. The problem with this is that it actually allows the engine to vibrate more because it is not solidly mounted. This vibration can lead to fastener failure because the engine is now allowed to vibrate which can weaken the fastener. The other school of thought is mount the engine solid. True the rider may feel more vibration but the engine itself does not move and will not fatigue the fastener from the vibration. Both have been done with success. My preference is to mount the engine solid. The best solution is to reduce the engine vibration by balancing it. Then we wouldn't be talking about fasteners at all.