Any help please?

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Austin Reyes

New Member
Jul 30, 2012
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Fredericksburg, Texas
So I wrote out a lot in my last post but when I tried to add 's and then posted everything got deleted.

Anyway, I just assembled a grubee 66cc gt5 onmy bike and tried to get it started... nothing happened.

1. Gas is getting to carb.
2. Engine chain and Sprocket rotate.
3. Clutch lever is working.
4. When clutch handle bar is pulled in, the motor makes faint 'knocking' sound.
5. I still have stock, china, spark plugs in. Tried both of them. Still no start.

I'm new to engine tinkering and motor bicycling. Please anyone help! :)

Oh, also the level shown in the 3rd picture doesn't go up all the way... Anyone have any experience with this?

If you need more info please ask, I'm kinda new to this.
 

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A

Austin Reyes

New Member
Jul 30, 2012
21
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Fredericksburg, Texas
So leave the spark plug in the housing and rest it on the slot?

Just tried it with both of the plugs that came with the kit and no spark... Guess I need a USA spark plug. ;) Since I've got you here which model would fit this grubee and can I get it at any auto parts store?

Nevermind I found the part, NGK BR4HS. I'll pick on up tomorrow and then give a update.
 
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ddesens

ddesens

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Jun 27, 2011
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New Port Richey, FL.
Make sure the white wire coming out of your engine isn't touching any metal. It looks like your clutch plate is flipped the wrong way. The notched side faces the clutch pads. The clutch must be assembled correctly for you to bump start the motor or even just to check for spark.
 
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2door

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Why did you disassemble the clutch in the first place? That was your first mistake. And why is the clutch cable routed toward the rear of the bike? Those sharp bends will make the clutch hard to pull.

Those plug-in connectors on the wiring are notorious for failure and bad connections. We suggest the wires be soldered then protected with heat shrink tubing. As was said, make sure the white wire can't come in contact with any part of the bike or engine.

Get rid of the small spring on your clutch cable. It serves no purpose and makes the clutch lever harder to pull. Retain the larger spring. It acts as a heat shield for the cable where it lays against the cylinder.

The kit supplied spark plug boot can also be a source of trouble. Replace it with a good automotive quality boot available at most any auto parts store. The kit boot requires that the top cap of the plug be removed. Most will unscrew but a new boot will let you use the plug as it comes, with the cap.

What fuel/oil ratio are you using and is it new? 2 cycle mix has a short shelf life. We recommend starting at a 24:1 mix then moving down to a 32:1 after a few tanks.

That carburetor can also contribute to engine starting/running problems. Do some research here on the CNS carb. Much has been written about it both pro and con.

Good luck and let us know if any of our suggestions helped.

Tom
 
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KCvale

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
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Phoenix,AZ
No spark is no spark period.
It is pretty much a two man job. One guy to lift the bike and pedal it, one to hold the plug end between his fingers and hold the end against a ground and feel for a spark.

Ya, you can check with a meter but wheres the fun in that? hehehehe ;-}
 
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Austin Reyes

New Member
Jul 30, 2012
21
0
0
Fredericksburg, Texas
2door said:
Why did you disassemble the clutch in the first place? That was your first mistake. And why is the clutch cable routed toward the rear of the bike? Those sharp bends will make the clutch hard to pull.

Those plug-in connectors on the wiring are notorious for failure and bad connections. We suggest the wires be soldered then protected with heat shrink tubing. As was said, make sure the white wire can't come in contact with any part of the bike or engine.

Get rid of the small spring on your clutch cable. It serves no purpose and makes the clutch lever harder to pull. Retain the larger spring. It acts as a heat shield for the cable where it lays against the cylinder.

The kit supplied spark plug boot can also be a source of trouble. Replace it with a good automotive quality boot available at most any auto parts store. The kit boot requires that the top cap of the plug be removed. Most will unscrew but a new boot will let you use the plug as it comes, with the cap.

What fuel/oil ratio are you using and is it new? 2 cycle mix has a short shelf life. We recommend starting at a 24:1 mix then moving down to a 32:1 after a few tanks.

That carburetor can also contribute to engine starting/running problems. Do some research here on the CNS carb. Much has been written about it both pro and con.

Good luck and let us know if any of our suggestions helped.

Tom
Click to expand...
First of all, thank everyone for the help! Hopefully I will get it started soon.

1. I undid the clutch cable from the back. Now their are no sharp turns.

2. The small spring has been removed.

3. I had already removed the top screw off the top of the stock spark plugs. I'm going, in a few minutes, to get a NGK B6HS.

4. I'm at 24:1, and the gas and oil are 2 days old.

5. I can't believe I put the clutch plate on backwards for the picture... I'm not that uneducated haha. :facepalm: It has since been put on the right way.
----------------
After I try the new spark plug I will get on again.

*1st picture is before I adjusted the clutch cable.
*4th picture is handle open, 3rd is handle pulled. Is it tight enough?
 

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george_n_texas

george_n_texas

Member
Sep 4, 2009
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I'd imagine an easy way to check for spark is to dip the tip of the spark plug into gas just enough to wet it on the end and make the side of the plug touch the frame it should ignite. You ain't gonna set a bike on fire with a small dab of gas. I've never done this but a guy with no eyebrows told me this will work.
 
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Austin Reyes

New Member
Jul 30, 2012
21
0
0
Fredericksburg, Texas
Okay so I got the new spark plug. Now when the spark plug is in, spin the wheel, and engage the clutch I feel immediate resistance.

When the spark plug is out I spin the wheel, and engage the clutch, the engine turns over. It's makes a 'normal' sound of an engine that wants to run! :)

Any suggestions/thoughts?

------------------
*That's a brilliant suggestion Forrest. I'll have to pick one up when I have some extra cash!
*George, where in Texas are you located?
 
george_n_texas

george_n_texas

Member
Sep 4, 2009
980
4
18
62
Texas
Are you choking it? It needs to have full choke for just a bit then half choke till it warms up just like you do a weed-eater.
 
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Austin Reyes

New Member
Jul 30, 2012
21
0
0
Fredericksburg, Texas
The choke lever is as far as it will go up. [Photo Included]

So why does the engine turn over and make a sputtering sound when the spark plug is out but when I connect it, spin the wheel, and then release the clutch handle bar lever the pedal almost immediately lock up?

Thanks again for your continual help.
 

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2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
How fast are you going before you release (engage) the clutch? We always recommend 10mph as a minimum. Anything slower and you might have the problem you're describing.
You need to spin that engine to get it to fire. Too slow and the compression will slow you down immediately.

Tom
 
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