I recently had a problem with my first build (and still my favorite). My camshaft is shaving down my bucking bar(s). Has this happened to anyone else? Should the bar be spinning at all? Can I lube it somehow?
This is very good advice. I go so far as to smooth and polish the bar and the cam leading edge using a buffing wheel and polishing compound. When finished the contacting surfaces look like chrome. A good high pressure grease applied to all surfaces where contact occures and you'll have a clutch that is easy to pull and will last a long time without wear in the linkage or need of constant adjustments.i have heard of people using the shank fo a 5/16ths drill bit for a replacement bucking bar. also if you smooth out the left(look from the LHS of the bike) edge of the cam it has been known t cut down on wear of the bucking bar and also allow for much smoother actuation of the clutch.
I hope you bought a 5/16" drill bit and not a 5/8". Also the length of the pin is extremely critical. If your original is not worn too badly use it as a guide for proper length.Wow, you guys are on top of this kind of stuff.... Ok, I went to Ace and bought some moly grease and a 5\8 hardened steel drill bit and now I'm off to a friends who has the tools to make this a 2 hour project instead of an all day thing. I don't have the stamina to cut a drill bit like this with a hacksaw nor do I have a grinder/polisher. I will post again next week with some results on how well its working. Thanks again for all the info!!!! you guys rule!
I did mean a 5/16".....Anyway, I did everything advised including polishing the new pin to a mirror shine, slapped it all back together and took her out on a 20 mile ride, got home to see how it held up and there was a little shaving going on but minimal. I filed off any burs on the cam side, added more grease and took it out again of about another 20 miles and found NO SHAVING....I hope you bought a 5/16" drill bit and not a 5/8". Also the length of the pin is extremely critical. If your original is not worn too badly use it as a guide for proper length.
Tom
Replacing the bucking bar with the butt end of 5/16 (HSS) High Speed steel drill bit is, without a doubt the best way to go.i have heard of people using the shank fo a 5/16ths drill bit for a replacement bucking bar. also if you smooth out the left(look from the LHS of the bike) edge of the cam it has been known t cut down on wear of the bucking bar and also allow for much smoother actuation of the clutch.
You are quite welcome, Jump. Glad you're enjoying your bike. Have fun and please ride safe.Replacing the bucking bar with the butt end of 5/16 (HSS) High Speed steel drill bit is, without a doubt the best way to go.
I learned this from 2-Door a couple years ago haven't had to change it out it out since, only to put it in a new motor and put the factory bar in stock
I ride my bike EVERY single day unless there is more than 6" of snow on the ground.
Thank You 2 Door
~Jump
My bucking bar is sticking out enough so when I install the drive cover with the camshaft it causes the camshaft to stick out about an extra 90 degrees. I can still put on the cover without the camshaft. It isn't sticking out enough where I can use the method of doing 1/2 turns with the drive case cover to push it in. I haven't seen any other threads with this issue please help!GENTLY use the three screws to force drive cover back on (tightening 1/2 turn per screw until all are in)
now you will be able to go to other side, and start to tighten flower nut (as it gets too tight to turn, reach thru and pull clutch arm toward you to loosen it more)
now you will be able to read the threads about doing proper clutch/cable adjust