I'm Stuck! I dont know how to finish my project.

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Rachtak

New Member
Oct 27, 2009
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Palo Alto, CA
So, Let me get this straight, I need to buy a tool in order to take off the black clip thing that holds the chain together so that I can put the chain on the sprocket?

Is it absolutely necessary to buy the tool? because I dont want to have to wait another week to finish it
 
george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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Sep 4, 2009
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The clip comes out pretty easy if you push on it with a flathead screwdriver then it goes back on with the open end facing the rear as the chain enters the motor sprocket at the top going forward. The sprocket on the motor can be turned with the spark plug socket they sent ya with the kit, it also makes it much easier if you take out the spark plug to get away from fighting against engine's compression. Be a bummer if the darn thing fires when you turned it too! (be a quirk but hey crazier things happen)

Unless your chain is perfect length you gonna have to take links out with tool or hammer and punch ect.
 
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xlite

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Jun 18, 2009
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bairdco said:
yeah, it works great.

BUT mine came with 2 pins, one smaller one that worked on both chains, and one big one that'd work on, well, big chains.

i was at H.F. the other day, and all the ones they had had 2 pins, but both of them were the large ones. dunno why, maybe bad quality control in china?

you would need to grind the pin down a little to make it work. 10 seconds with a grinder, or a couple minutes with a file and your all set.
Click to expand...
Thanks buddy. I just picked one up.
 
Nashville Kat

Nashville Kat

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2009
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The link that comes apart is the Master link, and to split the chain and put it back together at that point, you don't need anything but pliers. But if you want to or need to vary the chain's length, then you need a chain tool. If you can and want to eliminate the chain tensioner, you probably have to shorten the chain then.

A caution on the chain tools above- they appear to be bicycle chain tools, which are generally less expensive but smaller. For the 415 chain in the kit- which is basically a larger motorcycle chain- you need a chain tool that can handle a motorcycle chain.

I personally don't like the chain tensioner, because they are heavy and, if the sprockets line up (motor and wheel) they aren't that necessary, particularly if the build has a derailleur and multiple gears on the other side- because the derailleur adjusts the tension of the other chain, the pedal chain, and so then you can just pull the motor chain tight, if there's enough room in the back dropouts where the axle sits.

Mountain bikes often have a VERTICLE dropout, which can complicate chain tensioning because theres no adjustment then forward or backward.
 
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Rachtak

New Member
Oct 27, 2009
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Palo Alto, CA
Im back! thanks for helping me out thus far everyone, but I'm still not finished yet. After waiting a week, I was finally able to shorten my chain today to the proper length.

I'm pretty much finished except for little things like connecting the killswitch, mounting the gas tank, and installing the chain guard.

I spoke to a guy at a bike shop today and he told me to make sure that the bottom part of the engine (not the part with the piston) was oiled, or else the engine would be totally trashed. So, Is the bottom half of the engine oiled?

Also, I've noticed that I cant "roll" the bike. Meaning that the back tire cannot move freely because it is engaged to the sprocket on the motor. With enough force, I can turn the wheel very slowly but I can hear the piston moving when I move the wheel. Is there any way to turn the bike on "neutral" so that I can pedal normally without being hindered by the motor?

Also, I just realized that I dont know how to actually ride the bike (once its completely assembled). Someone told be that I hold down on the clutch lever, pedal a bit, and release the clutch lever to start the engine. Can anyone confirm this? In addition, what do I do with the throttle when all this is happening?

Finally, I've been reading around the forum and apparently, "the factory gasket is trash." Whats a gasket? And is this really important that I get a better one? Can anyone refer me to a guide on how to find/install/replace one properly?

Sorry for all my questions, I just want to get this thing finished so that I can ride with peace of mind!
 
george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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Sep 4, 2009
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Enguage the clutch and lock the button to keep it in neutral
Only oil you use in the engine is 2cycle oil as per instructions that came with the kit

What kit are you using? Did it come with instructions?

A gasket is a piece you sandwitch between 2 surfaces. I have not had any problem with any that came in my kit.

peddlin and releasing the clutch is how they start no doubt. Once the engine fires I like to rev it up just a bit for a few seconds to warm it up.

You do know they warn you that you need SOME mechanical aptitude to install these things. The pics you post look good so far it's just kinda strange to be asked what a gasket is.
 
BarelyAWake

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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Rachtak said:
I spoke to a guy at a bike shop today and he told me to make sure that the bottom part of the engine (not the part with the piston) was oiled, or else the engine would be totally trashed. So, Is the bottom half of the engine oiled?

Sorry for all my questions, I just want to get this thing finished so that I can ride with peace of mind!
Click to expand...
As george mentioned, a two cycle engine like these is lubricated by the oil you put in the fuel, even the bottom end - which may seem strange but it's true (and very, very common). With that thought in mind you may want to take yer bike shop friend's advice with a grain of salt from now on. He may well know about bicycles - but he doesn't know diddly about even the basics of small engines, what worries me is he doesn't seem to be afraid of spreading his lack of knowledge o_O

Questions = good, assumptions = bad, ask away! Sounds like yer bike buddy could learn a thing or two about that from you :D
 
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marts1

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Sep 18, 2009
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Won't find a whole lotta piece of mind operating your new toy unless you learn much more then you now know. Pretty much all you need to know is here in this forum.
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
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When you get ready to start the bike for the first time-

Turn on the gas, and wait for 30 seconds.
Push your "tickler button" otherwise known as a primer for 2 seconds.
Pull your choke lever UP about 3/4 of the way.
Pull in the clutch lever and pedal up to a good cruising speed.
Open your throttle just a tiny bit and let the clutch out, it should at least fire. Keep pedaling and work the throttle a LITTLE bit and see what happens.

If it won't even try to fire, get back to us.

If it does fire up, let it run at a slow cruise for a minute and push the choke lever back DOWN. Get back to us and let us know how it went after a good ride...
 
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Rachtak

New Member
Oct 27, 2009
28
0
0
Palo Alto, CA
Bikeguy Joe said:
When you get ready to start the bike for the first time-

Turn on the gas, and wait for 30 seconds.
Push your "tickler button" otherwise known as a primer for 2 seconds.
Pull your choke lever UP about 3/4 of the way.
Pull in the clutch lever and pedal up to a good cruising speed.
Open your throttle just a tiny bit and let the clutch out, it should at least fire. Keep pedaling and work the throttle a LITTLE bit and see what happens.

If it won't even try to fire, get back to us.

If it does fire up, let it run at a slow cruise for a minute and push the choke lever back DOWN. Get back to us and let us know how it went after a good ride...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips but I'm not quite versed in the lingo. What is the "Tickler button"/primer? what is a choke lever?
 
george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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If you don't mind it would help if you let us know what kit and where you got it from...every kit seems top have a little different instructions. The tickle button is on the left top side of the carb. It springs up and down bout half the size of an eraser on a pencil. the choke lever is on the right side shaped like a small toilet handle...flip it all the way up about 45 degree angle and back half way down after it fires or pops or if after trying to peddle 15 or so yards with clutch released. It is much the same as a weed eater after you get it to fire or it doesn't fire you back off on the choke.
 
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Rachtak

New Member
Oct 27, 2009
28
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0
Palo Alto, CA
I Got my motor off of Thatsdax.com .

Thanks for telling me what to do on the first fire-up. However, as of now, I still cant get the bike to go on neutral. When I pull the clutch, nothing happens; the bike tire is still locked. Do I have to shorten the length of the cable in between the clutch arm and the other thing even shorter than it already is?
 
george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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Yes you need it tight enough that when you squeeze the handle it goes into "neutral" at the point you can lock it with the button
 
Norman

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
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Hey you live in Ca. I'm not real sure just where but if your close to La. you might try getting one of the members to help you lot of guys there have these bikes.I'm going to be in Pasadena on the 8th of Dec. how close are to to Pasadena?
 
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