general info battery pack question...

GoldenMotor.com

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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Lets say for the sake of discussion (because we don't argue on this forum) that my motor will pull 40amps under full load. and thats about right.

Now with a battery c factor of 1 I would need a 40ah battery. Is that correct?

Now with a battery c factor of 2 I would need only 20ah to get the 40amps burst for say a big hill. is that right?

If I can build a battery with the c factor of 1 for the same price as the battery with the C factor of 2 wouldn't I be better off to go with the C factor of 1 since the battery would have more total Amps and therefore have more range. Is that right or wrong?

I mean don't those burst amps have to come from somewhere...
 

zabac70

New Member
Mar 17, 2010
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You are right about first two claims (well, sort of - you really want to have some reserve , battery peak Amp rating wise , because putting maximum allowed stress on cells too often , shortens their life).
Amount of Amps (energy) in your (future) cells is constant (by its rating) and it doesn't have almost any relation with C rating. It is just the way it's released. Think of it as a nozzle (C rating) on garden hose , attached to a water tank (battery cell) - when you put it on the hose you get more pressure on the flow (more water power) but you get more pressure on the hose itself and if it's too much, hose/tank will burst or nozzle will come off and the amount of water is the same . Now , if you put bigger nozzle(2C) , you'll have less pressure on the hose/tank (batteries) , but you'll be quicker out of water (energy). If you want to put some fire out (god forbid), meaning you want to ride up hill , you just want as much water as you can possibly have, therefore bigger nozzle is better. Tap on water tank is your throttle.
C rating is about internal resistance of cell. More resistance - less work (more heat-wasted energy) and if you push it , cell will short out (blow up , crystallize or change polarity). You had an experience with your AA NiMH pack - it would spin up the wheel on it's own , but as soon as you sit on the bike it would do nothing (accept heating the cells - which you didn't check). Bigger C rating - the better and it'll affect range only by keeping cells in good condition , so you can use maximum energy from those cells (other inefficiencies are another matter).
I know that this sounds stupid , but I'm having trouble expressing myself properly in English (in short period of time).
 

jdcburg

New Member
Jul 9, 2009
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massachusetts
Also I have heard the definition of burst (impulse) C is no more than one 5 second burst every 30 seconds. Not much of a hill but maybe enough to get across an intersection. For a hill you need to rely on regular power. I'm pretty sure the Prius NiMH are rated at 10C constant, so it's possible to get NiMH that are powerful enough. There probably is an online market for Prius cells out of wrecks, etc if anyone is interested in researching that - jd
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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I still don't have a feel for what cheap nimh battery c rating is but I should have a better idea as I add to the pack. Anyway I think for length of time that the battery will put out the required amps, it might be better to go with the lower c and just add to the pack till it works. I could be wrong.
 

zabac70

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Mar 17, 2010
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Anyway I think for length of time that the battery will put out the required amps, it might be better to go with the lower c and just add to the pack till it works.
Deacon , how you came up with that conclusion? I mean , you will do as you like (naturally) , but I'm interested to learn how (or from which facts - since you're running the tests) you imagined that lower C is better?
As I've explained (somewhat clumsy) bigger C is better (you can check out endless sphere for confirmation). Adding cells in parallel is more expensive than buying cells with higher C rating. JDC is right about short bursts , but time (said 5 sec) is depending on particular cell structure (and chemistry) - it can be up to 30 sec or more .
Once again(maybe this is more understandable): if you have leaking boat , in the middle of the lake , which would you prefer to take the water out - drinking glass or a bucket (representing C rating)?
It is very hard to put a lots of maths and physics (and chemistry , for that matter) into something that is "every day" looking and understandable and comparable (although I'm not a certified expert for that stuff - I've just paid attention in school and college and done plenty of reading).
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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Let me give you my thinking here. The bucket or battery holds a finite amount of energy or water no matter what the c rating or the size of the nozzle on the hose you are using to pump it out. So if you can pump out the energy faster, it has to also deplete the reserve of energy in the battery or the amount of water in the tank faster.

If my house was on fire I would rather they bring a larger tank and pump the same rate of water for a longer period of time, than to pump the tank dry faster even if I needed more time to put it out.

So if there are 35 ahs in the battery and it pumps out 35 amps at a time it should last one hour. If there are twenty ahs in the battery and it pumps out thirty amps here and thirty amps there it will deplete the twenty ahs faster. Just like the sla dumping more energy over a shorter amount of time. I'm sorry 35ah spread over an hour has to give me more range than 20 amp hours with burst of 35 hrs even for seconds at a time. 35 is just a larger reserve than twenty. Unless you can tell me that 20ah of lithium battery will actually put out 35ah over a one hour period. If so why not rate them higher like everyone else does.
 
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zabac70

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Mar 17, 2010
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Aaahhh , now I get your point of view. You , basically , try to preserve energy in order to extend your range. Am I right?
First let us remove fire from discussion (please , don't use words fire and house in the same sentence any more - it gave me chills). Second, bigger water tank isn't an issue here (you'll get as much AH as you find necessary for your trips - we are talking about availability of Amps ). Third, energy(in batteries) is preserved in various ways : efficiency of the system , reduced weight , regenerative braking , coasting as much as possible, pedal assist...
Let's change the analogy. If you have truck with 3.0 l engine (I don't know how much is that in cubic inches) and you want to preserve gas (energy) you can put carburetor from 2.0 l engine on it , right? It will get much better mileage , but slower acceleration (not enough power , engine over heating and lots of problems with it) and if you put some load on the bed it can even stall on some hill. Now , your solution is to put carburetor valves from 2.2 l engine on the carburetor, than from 2.5 l , etc...until you can make it over that hill with the load on the back and if those valves are smaller then it used to be, you'll be happy and if not you'll put old ones (3.0 l) back in place. That is analogy for C rating. Bigger tank on the vehicle (meaning , you can go further , not over that hill) is AH. Now , if you keep old valves (3.0 l ones) , you can still preserve petrol by driving slower , coast on downhills , not using AC (making it more efficient)...But you can make it over that hill (with a load on the back) any time , without trouble for your engine.
What I'm saying is - don't mix C ratings (power availability) with AH (power storage). If the system is underpowered (insufficient C rating) , it WILL kill the batteries prematurely and their demise will pull out more money from your pocket. We are talking theoretically , since you never measured your power consumption (it's based on assumption) , and you don't know how much is your system efficient (not very much , sure) and you try to conclude what happens with your batteries by measuring Volts and feel and eye ball.
That being said , you know that motor uses less amps with higher speeds and you drive pretty slowly. So your trouble isn't with capacity (AH) - it is in other things. With 15 AH batteries(any chemistry) you can go at least 15 mile ,with hills (and that is a fact - people do it almost every day and I know few of them) without pedaling. If you "adjust" your system (meaning more speed on the motor, with better efficiency , geared low for more torque and low driving speed and you can always limit Amp draw of the motor) assuming that everything is correctly wired(no loose ends) you can make it easily. But , even with that kind of setup , batteries must be able to deliver enough power for peak demands (which is unknown), otherwise , you'll be experiencing the same things that you did in past few weeks. I'm not saying that you should buy batts with 30 C (which people do use on e bikes - Lithium ones) just few times more than 1 C.
This concludes my posting about this subject and further experimenting with widely known issues (C rating related) is solely up to you (and your wallet). However , I would love to see you do it your way (relatively cheap and without BMS and proper chargers) and move on to other (bike related) projects and I will try to replicate your success (which would make me wrong, but who cares, if that means that I can ride for less money).
Please , don't get me wrong , I'm not criticizing, just expressing my opinion.
 
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deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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north carolina
I absolutely agree. There are many ways to save energy with a bike or car or anything else but in this case I already have the beat up old truck, so buying a more fuel efficient one is not likely to happen. Cash for clunkers did not include bikes, though it probably should have.

So this is my choices
1.sla ...which has less range, more weight but great power curve for the short time it delivers it.
2. Lithium ...which is a rather expensive in at 36v and as you said, and rightly so, you need a bms circuit or you are going to be in deep voodoo one day, I fear. I honestly did not know that these batteries had cells that were inexpensive and easy to replace. The clip I saw of them being made had them sandwiching raw cells and soldiering them together. Something I didn't ant to attempt frankly/
3 Nimh batteries... I can try to figure out how to make the nimh cells work.. Now the least expensive cells I can find that seem appropriate are aa 25oo mah supposedly. I have no idea their C rating. I already have a pack built of nimh cells so it is less expensive for me to add to it than to start all over. What I hope to do is find somewhere along the way the proper number of cells to make my motor operate well. First in conjunction with the sla, for an instand power boost, possibly later for a complete nimh pack. I expect that it will be 35 amp hours. As I think you picked up on the range would be farther simply because the pool of amps would be deeper. That is my thinking at the moment.

It is very true I could lose a hundred pounds and not need so much power. I could also move to a flatter topography and not need as much power but it's like the old truck. This is what I have to deal with so I'm doing what I can to keep the wheels on.

Now my motor is way to inefficient for most people I know that, but I hope that somewhere along the way someone takes something from all this. Even if it is not to do it at all.

The current discussion is whether it would be better for me to buy batteries with a higher c, so that I could buy less amp hours to get the range, and speed/torque I need. Or should I buy lower c and have them have a longer range by buying more of them. At this point I probably am committed to just add five or ten amp hours at a time until i get something that will work. Then I can count the cells and we can decide whether it would have been cheaper to use the other cells.

Now those guys running 24v 350 watt motors should be able to figure out what they need and how best to do it. I just give information I don't really try to influence anyone to go the way i do, because my way usually won't fit their lifestyle.

I really do get the valve thing for the carb but it isn't just the one value it is a lot of valves putting drops of gas into the carb. I don't know how many drops it will take to climb that hill but enough little raindrops and you have a flood.

PS in the end you may well be able to say I told you so, but I would only believe it after I try it myself. Then I may well join your choir,but it will be because I know first hand that it doesn't work. So I spend a few more bucks but I'll know soon enough. If there is not a significant improvement in the performance of the battery pack with this ten ah addition, I will probably be ready to concede.
 
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deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
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north carolina
I think I will stick to one brand or one type at least and make my observations on those once I get past this mismash test set. I am expecting my batteries to discharge the rated amp more or less. Not hight drain batteries.

What I hope to do is in the end be able to give you guys some idea of what the real world count is on the cheap chinese nimh batteries. Somewhere along the line I may well decide there is no acceptable number of cells to do what I need. In which case I will state that as well, but remember all conclusions are based on a very inefficient drive system and a lard but rider. So for sure your results will vary.

To make matters even worse, I found yesterday how much difference tension on the wheel makes when calculating battery drain. So today I set the tension in a permanent position good or bad performance, I will use it to compare so that it is apples to apples.
 

Catfisher

Member
Apr 10, 2010
134
1
18
Heart of Illinois
Great links zabac70, thanks. From the first link NiMH Packs and Cells

"The disadvantage of NiMH cells is that they usually have a much higher internal impedance. That means that if you try to draw a lot of current from NiMH cells, they will drop excessively in voltage which can cause poor performance or the device they are powering to shut down."

This seems to explain exactly the performance problem Deacon is experiencing with the NiMH battery packs he is building.

Have you read it Deacon? What do you think?
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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north carolina
I have read a lot of it and I agree with most of it. I don't know enough to disagree with any of it. I have a few more ah coming and i will see what that does. Then I will have to make some new decisions I'm sure. I still think it is going to be: have a big pack of nimh batteries 'as in' draw from them one for one until they are exhausted. However I am only basing that on a feeling nothing scientific.

Even if you can draw more than the rated current from them,they should still work at least in the hybrid sense. Still it is going to be wait and see. My problem now is I don't trust the am rating on any battery.

Maybe the storage capacitor will make into the pipe soon. Or the lead allow battery.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
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north carolina
how full is full...

From day one I was told that a sla battery was full when it read anything over 13.25v after resting.

That seems to be pretty fair since the batteries hold more the newer they are. So how about the nimh battery is the same true. Is the 13.25 a good benchmark for a full battery, I know there are ranges but in the sla 13.25 or above performs well, under that you are definitely on the downhill slide.

After resting over night my nimh dropped from 13.8 to 13.5 which would be about consistent with an sla of the same age.
 
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