So basically my first build. Got a 2 stroke 66cc on a beach cruiser... Had a few issues such as clearance for the chain but I added an additional pacer and the dermal took care of the rear fender. But now that everything is back on I'm having some serious resistance with the rear tire.. It doesn't want to rotate easily. Everything is straight and lines up.. The clutch is engaged so it normally rortates freely? Any ideas? Do the bolts against the bearings in the rear need to be loosened or keep them tight?
Rear tire won't spin?!?!?
- Thread starter chipper
- Start date
When the clutch is engaged, it means that the engine is engaged through the clutch in order to power the rear wheel through the chain. Trying to roll your bicycle with the clutch engaged should be very difficult as you are forcing the engine to turn over just like when you are pedal starting it.
Dis-engaged means the opposite. The engine is disconnected from the rear wheel and all should be easy to rotate and the bicycle should be easily pushed. A little bit if resistance is normal as there will be a bit of drag from the drive chain as well as the bearings inside the engine.
Have you tried disconnecting the engine chain with out disturbing any of the rear wheel settings or mounting?
Your problem could be a bad chain with stiff links, mis-adjusted wheel bearing pre-load, or something else that hasn't been suggested yet.
Dis-engaged means the opposite. The engine is disconnected from the rear wheel and all should be easy to rotate and the bicycle should be easily pushed. A little bit if resistance is normal as there will be a bit of drag from the drive chain as well as the bearings inside the engine.
Have you tried disconnecting the engine chain with out disturbing any of the rear wheel settings or mounting?
Your problem could be a bad chain with stiff links, mis-adjusted wheel bearing pre-load, or something else that hasn't been suggested yet.
Sorry I ment dis engaged... It's not a clutch issue... I got thy sucker prime today and we had it running for the first time... Basically everything was working perfect but I realized the chain needed a little more room cause it was rubbing on the tire a bit... I read a forum about coaster bike brakes and it said if you tighten the bolts to much it never allows the brakes to decompress? Have you herd of that or think that could even be the issue?
Yes, if you tighten the axle nuts improperly the wheel won't turn well.
do like gearnut said and disconnect the master link, duct tape the chain to the stay, ot of the way, and see how it pedals and brakes...
IMO, coaster brakes have NO place on a mab.
Rim brakes are barely marginal!
I'll be running at least a front disk soon as I can.
Good luck
rc
do like gearnut said and disconnect the master link, duct tape the chain to the stay, ot of the way, and see how it pedals and brakes...
IMO, coaster brakes have NO place on a mab.
Rim brakes are barely marginal!
I'll be running at least a front disk soon as I can.
Good luck
rc
I def agree... I'm going to just get ride of the rear coaster and place a new hand brake up front and replace the rear tire... It's too much of a hassell... Thank you for the input... It's people like you tatty make it possible for people like me possible to enjoy such a enjoyable/illegal activity in Cali hahaha... Thanks guys
Is your (engine) chain too tight? My bike likes a loose chain, Definitily the way to tell is to disconnect the chain from the rear sprocket, and spin the rear tire.
Lead is right, u should also suspect chain tension... My own rag joint sprocket is NOT mounted well enough... not concentric. It goes from loose to tight in a revolution. Gotta loosen it and whack it over a tad, then re-tighten.
...the rag joint is probably the worst part of the universal motorized bicycle design. anyone serious abt their mab really should get the clamshell hub adapter to resolve this problem.
Brakes... the inline brake system is superior to the center pulls and they are frequently available from salvage bikes, now. Shimano calls them V brakes, I think...
Somewhere I think I read they require a different hand lever that has a ratio designed for them, but mine works fine without. Kool-Stop pads are also claimed to be good. ...and disk is far better than rim brakes!
best
rc
...the rag joint is probably the worst part of the universal motorized bicycle design. anyone serious abt their mab really should get the clamshell hub adapter to resolve this problem.
Brakes... the inline brake system is superior to the center pulls and they are frequently available from salvage bikes, now. Shimano calls them V brakes, I think...
Somewhere I think I read they require a different hand lever that has a ratio designed for them, but mine works fine without. Kool-Stop pads are also claimed to be good. ...and disk is far better than rim brakes!
best
rc
