Clutch stuck.

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chrisme

New Member
May 30, 2009
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Maine
I can't find exactly what I'm looking for, or maybe I'm not searing well enough... Anyway, here's my problem.
I have a 66cc engine, and after replacing the cylinder and rings it's been a great little motor. Especially never had an issue with the clutch. It's always worked perfectly.
Until now... It was fine one day, the next day I go to ride it and the clutch won't completely disengage. It sort of half disengages but is still grabbing really hard.

I know I can loosen the flower wheel to adjust it, but will that help?*Because it just suddenly started this. What could have caused this to happen?
 
2door

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Chrisme,
I know this sounds elementary, but how is the clutch cable tension? Have you tried tightening it? Not trying to make you sound dumb, sir but many folks have forgotten about cable stretch and had the same problem.
Tom
 
killercanuck

killercanuck

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Dec 17, 2009
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Wallaceburg ON
It's the tension when the clutch is pulled in you need to worry about, if its not disengaging. Sounds like either cable stretch, or your brass nib slipped a mm. The travel of the whole clutch mechanism is only 3-4mm(if that), so it doesn't take much. Try tightening your cable to get it to release enough.

Then if it doesn't engage properly, think about playing with the flower nut.

gl.
 
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chrisme

New Member
May 30, 2009
423
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Maine
Ok, so I grudgingly went out to work on it tonight... I had to move the bike so I could work on it. Out of habit I pulled in the clutch lever and rolled it into the middle of the garage.
That's right, it rolled nice and smooth into the middle of the garage. For some reason the clutch stopped being stuck since my last post, and I haven't touched it.

I still want to know WHY*this happened. I*don't like it when things start working again. Not only did I not learn something new, mysterious things are going on, and it might stick again. Anyway, for now. This has solved itself.
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
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Portland
Hey I have the same problem with my first bike, just got done building it, and I can't pedal three feet with it. I've tightened the cable as far as I can without going too far, still when I pull the lever it won't let go of the engine. I've even tried holding the clutch arm all the way down but still the wheel does not roll freely.
I'll keep trying at it, but what do I do with the flower nut? I'll look around and figure out where it is but how does it work?
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
11
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Portland
Okay I just got done putting it back together after taking it apart and adjusting the flower wheel, because I checked the whole cable and tightened it 'cause I saw that the arm was quite open, even with the cable being pulled. So after loosening the flower nut I could see how it all works, but it still made no different if the clutch cable was being pulled or not. I even helm the arm all the way down, no difference. Then I took the other side off, over the chain gear and what not. I'm not seeing what's wrong. I know it's something I didn't do or over-did, it's gotta be my fault.
I did check the clutch pucks, none of them stuck to the friction wheel, I think it's really the clutch arm and connection...how close is it supposed to be (towards the engine) without being pulled? My directions show it pretty close, and I put it that way, but it's not working with the actual clutch...
Sorry I'm making this such a pain, it's gotta be something simple I'm sure.
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
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Portland
Wow I just posted a reply but it's not showing on my computer...well if it didn't post I'll just say what I said in a nutshell...
I checked everything, but it comes down to the cable. Whatever I do, tighten the cable or loosen the flower nut, pulling the clutch lever is no different than not pulling it. Something's up with the clutch arm is what I'm thinking, just gotta figure out what I did wrong.
 
killercanuck

killercanuck

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Dec 17, 2009
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I'm thinking you might have lost your little bearing at some point. If it fell out, your clutch would do nothing.

It should be behind the pushbar that the clutch arm pushes on, like in this pic:


That little bearing is easy to lose. Maybe that happened to you?
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
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Portland
I'll definitely check, thanks for the idea. Maybe it was missed in being manufactured, or when I first started assembling I lost it...Thank you!
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
11
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Portland
I'm an idiot. LOL The problem was the cable, it wasn't tight enough to move the clutch arm through the whole motion! I had my dad help me tighten that properly.
Now I'm in the process of learning how to ride it! YES its starts an runs!
Thank you everyone for helping me and bearing with my inexperience, sorry it was just a little thing but hey-at least that's all it was!
Thanks again,
-Roland
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
11
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Portland
Well great, now I broke it.
Got it running, held the clutch to lower the choke, let go of the clutch, took off by itself, then the wheel pulley tensioner flew off and the brace it was on chewed up my spokes =(
I can learn from this.
The only problem is, gas leaks out of the screw on the bottom of the bucket (not sure what it's really named) on the carb.. Seems like it needs a different gasket.
 
killercanuck

killercanuck

New Member
Dec 17, 2009
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Wallaceburg ON

That sucks man. Gotta be careful, we call them toys but they can still do some damage if you're not paying attention...

Did the idler rotate, or what happened there?

For the drip(that's the float bowl, btw) you can snug up the screw(if you haven't tried that). Or pull it and put a dab of RTV(or something gas won't eat) on the threads.

gl.
 
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carchub

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
11
0
0
Portland
Yeah tightened the screw, but found out the fuel valve I have is real cheap. It spins all the way around and round-no stopper, but I figured out it still does it's job if it's just 90 degrees with the fuel line...
So yeah, gonna get a new rim, tighten the pulley a bit more...it was spinning, it's just the tension moved it a little and caused the chain to roll off the edge of it. That pushed it into my spokes...
 
killercanuck

killercanuck

New Member
Dec 17, 2009
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Wallaceburg ON
One thing you could do once its back in position where you want it. Is to drill a hole through the mount and the outer layer of the chainstay, then use a lock screw to keep it from twisting at all. If it twisted that easily already, imagine it under load tearing up a hill...

Some don't like to drill into the frame, as it can cause a weak point if you're a hard rider(or on the heavy side of 200).

Another option would be to only drill the idler bracket, and tap the hole to use a set-screw. Taps are only $5-7, and having a 6mX1.0 around can be handy(that's the stock mount stud/covers hole size/thread count)

Or even better still, do away with the idler all together. That'll depend on your rear drop-outs(if you have forward/rear adjustment), or whether you'll need a 1/2 link to get the chain length right, or steel shims behind the rear engine mount to get the chain tension just right. That'll take some tweaking to get right, but that's something to think about down the road.

gl.
 
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