Just get that brand new motor on your doorstep? If you've been reading here alot you probably already know that the hardware (That is the nuts and bolts) are garbage. People have motor mounts snapping off or stripping screws, for just a couple dollars you can make all those problems go away. All you need is a hardware store that sells metric machine screws.
You dont have to replace all the screws on the case, being that they undergo next to no stresses, dont worry about cover screws, just focus on the ones that take the biggest beatings:
Torquing
This is dependent on the material-to-material surface. For all of the bolts mentioned here, if you have a small torque wrench, you want 60-80 in. lbs. (~5-7.5 ft. lbs.). For the head bolts (which are strong enough for our motors), you'll want ~120 in.lbs. (~10 ft. lbs).
Torque rating for grade 8 nuts and bolts is... alot. Probably more than you can muster unless you're using a huge wrench.
Pinapple/rag joint:
This is what encapsulates your wheel's spokes to connect it to the motor. They are M6x40 out of the box. I went down to part source and grabbed 9 grade 8.8 steel bolts
I use M6x35 cap screws with appropriately sized nuts, washers and lock washers Cost: $6.50
Engine mounts:
These are some of the most commonly broken (not stripped) due to the engine's pulling force and the one-sided chain. To reduce damage, get more speed before engaging the clutch (letting go of the lever), this will also save your clutch pads, and dont repeatedly WOT burst (that is WOT-nothing-WOT-nothing), this puts extra wear on these bolts, your spokes, rag joint, chain, and tensioner. Smooth, consistent throttle will help save your motor
Front -- I use M6x20 with a 1mm steel plate for wide mounting. Cost: $0.60
Rear -- I use M6x50 grade 8 bolts Cost: $0.80
Intake and exhaust:
These are the most commonly stripped, especially if you torque them too much, they also tend to come out with the nuts if you're not careful. Exhaust side especially produces wear if you dont hang your exhaust on the frame of the bike using the included exhaust hanger, the vibrations and weight will strip the stock hardware easily.
Intake -- I use the included round head allen bolts with the RSE reeds. However M6x16 will also work with a washer or two. Cost: $0.40
Exhaust -- I use M6x16 studs with lock washer Cost: $0.55
Tensioner:
Many people despise the tensioner and I'm not one to argue with them. Reports of being pulled into the spokes are all too common. Upgrading the hardware here, especially where it mounts to the frame, could save your tire. I have stripped all the stepped bolts for this part trying to prevent the tensioner from slowly sliding down while riding.
I use M8x25 bolts with lockwashers and nuts. My tensioner only had 2 mounting bolts, some have 4. I used 3 M8x30 bolts, however, including the one on the roller itself. It had to be spaced using 2 washers on each side of a nut, plus a nut on the opposite side to space it out from the mounting plate. Cost: $1.40
Clutch retainer:
You will no doubt get frustrated at trying to get the clutch retainer screw tight enough. First, ditch the return spring that you're supposed to put on the bare clutch cable between the guide and arm. All it does is add extra resistance. If the clutch doesn't want to return, that tiny spring isn't going to force it even slightly. However the retainer tends to slip, this is a huge pain when you have to pedal at any point because the motor wont disengage. Grab the shortest M4 bolt that you can find. The stock one is M4x8. Pro tip: it's a 7mm socket/wrench that fits these
I use an M4x12 bolt. Simply unscrew the stock one and put in the new one. Easy peasy, just adjust it so there's no play in the handle. Cost: $0.15
Also, if anything is loose on your bike; handlebars, pedals, spokes, etc. Tighten them up to spec BEFORE installing the motor, it'll save you a ton of headaches later.
You dont have to replace all the screws on the case, being that they undergo next to no stresses, dont worry about cover screws, just focus on the ones that take the biggest beatings:
Torquing
This is dependent on the material-to-material surface. For all of the bolts mentioned here, if you have a small torque wrench, you want 60-80 in. lbs. (~5-7.5 ft. lbs.). For the head bolts (which are strong enough for our motors), you'll want ~120 in.lbs. (~10 ft. lbs).
Torque rating for grade 8 nuts and bolts is... alot. Probably more than you can muster unless you're using a huge wrench.
Pinapple/rag joint:
This is what encapsulates your wheel's spokes to connect it to the motor. They are M6x40 out of the box. I went down to part source and grabbed 9 grade 8.8 steel bolts
I use M6x35 cap screws with appropriately sized nuts, washers and lock washers Cost: $6.50
Engine mounts:
These are some of the most commonly broken (not stripped) due to the engine's pulling force and the one-sided chain. To reduce damage, get more speed before engaging the clutch (letting go of the lever), this will also save your clutch pads, and dont repeatedly WOT burst (that is WOT-nothing-WOT-nothing), this puts extra wear on these bolts, your spokes, rag joint, chain, and tensioner. Smooth, consistent throttle will help save your motor
Front -- I use M6x20 with a 1mm steel plate for wide mounting. Cost: $0.60
Rear -- I use M6x50 grade 8 bolts Cost: $0.80
Intake and exhaust:
These are the most commonly stripped, especially if you torque them too much, they also tend to come out with the nuts if you're not careful. Exhaust side especially produces wear if you dont hang your exhaust on the frame of the bike using the included exhaust hanger, the vibrations and weight will strip the stock hardware easily.
Intake -- I use the included round head allen bolts with the RSE reeds. However M6x16 will also work with a washer or two. Cost: $0.40
Exhaust -- I use M6x16 studs with lock washer Cost: $0.55
Tensioner:
Many people despise the tensioner and I'm not one to argue with them. Reports of being pulled into the spokes are all too common. Upgrading the hardware here, especially where it mounts to the frame, could save your tire. I have stripped all the stepped bolts for this part trying to prevent the tensioner from slowly sliding down while riding.
I use M8x25 bolts with lockwashers and nuts. My tensioner only had 2 mounting bolts, some have 4. I used 3 M8x30 bolts, however, including the one on the roller itself. It had to be spaced using 2 washers on each side of a nut, plus a nut on the opposite side to space it out from the mounting plate. Cost: $1.40
Clutch retainer:
You will no doubt get frustrated at trying to get the clutch retainer screw tight enough. First, ditch the return spring that you're supposed to put on the bare clutch cable between the guide and arm. All it does is add extra resistance. If the clutch doesn't want to return, that tiny spring isn't going to force it even slightly. However the retainer tends to slip, this is a huge pain when you have to pedal at any point because the motor wont disengage. Grab the shortest M4 bolt that you can find. The stock one is M4x8. Pro tip: it's a 7mm socket/wrench that fits these
I use an M4x12 bolt. Simply unscrew the stock one and put in the new one. Easy peasy, just adjust it so there's no play in the handle. Cost: $0.15
Also, if anything is loose on your bike; handlebars, pedals, spokes, etc. Tighten them up to spec BEFORE installing the motor, it'll save you a ton of headaches later.
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