Snapped the steerer on my home made forks

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Maxvision

New Member
Jun 13, 2009
551
1
0
San Diego, CA
The other day I took a break from working on the build for my Morini powered imitation board tracker and took it for a short ride to the corner store, which is only about 1/4 mile away. Hadn't gone more than a couple of blocks and had the bike "wound out" hauling ass down a short hill. I saw a car, on the next side street ahead, pull up and stop at the stop sign. A little voice in my head said, "I bet they're gonna pull out in front of me"...little voice was right...that's just what they did.

Back pedaled my coaster brake and pulled hard on the hand lever for my front roller brake. The front of my bike lurched up in the air then came right back down like I had just run over a dog or something. Scared the CRAP outta me, but all was cool. I didn't lose control and was able to slow down enough that the car got past me before I hit it.

Had no idea why the bike had lurched up like that but seemed to be riding just fine so I continued the rest of the way to the store, got what I needed then rode back home. Once home and wondering why the bike lurched like it did I grabbed the hand brake and started rocked the bike back and forth. Hrmmm, thinking to myself, those fork blades sure seem to be bending forwards and backwards an aweful lot...then *SNAP* the steerer tube snapped right in half the forks just dropped right out of the frame.

OMG! I am SOO friggen lucky!! I that steerer had snapped like that while I was riding I would have been launched right over the handlebars for a most "Gawd Aweful Flying Faceplant" that it still makes me shudder to think about it.

I made my home made monarch style forks using the steerer and crown from a Worksman bicycle. Worksman bikes are built tough and I'm surprised the steerer tubing snapped in two like that. I have no idea what made it snap like that other than some probably some ID-Ten-T error on my part, if you know what I mean.

Oh well, whatever the reason it happened, at least I know my brakes work GREAT!

Broken-fork.jpg Broken-fork2.jpg
 

dmb

Active Member
Dec 4, 2010
1,354
3
36
lakewood ca
wow scotty! lucky you. that looks like a stress fracture like the stem was too tight at one time. beats me? good luck dennis
 

wheelbender6

Well-Known Member
Sep 4, 2008
4,059
221
63
TX
Glad it didn't happen in the middle of an intersection. I broke a pedal while starting off at a 4 way stop with busy four lane roads crossing. I got pretty good at pedalling with one foot on the way home.
 

Maxvision

New Member
Jun 13, 2009
551
1
0
San Diego, CA
Got around to fixing my forks today. Found what really happened. It appears that someone (doubt it was Worksman but I don't know for sure) took a front fork with a shorter steerer and extended the steerer to fit the longer Worksman fork tube. The concept was good but the brazing between the steerer plug to the crown's tube insert was VERY weak.

Picture speaks 1000 words.

 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
24
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Wow....glad to hear you are alright.....close call.

That is a seriously bad place to extend a steerer tube.....the stress is sure to break it again. I would highly advise not repairing that fork and get a new or at least undamaged one.

Got around to fixing my forks today. Found what really happened. It appears that someone (doubt it was Worksman but I don't know for sure) took a front fork with a shorter steerer and extended the steerer to fit the longer Worksman fork tube. The concept was good but the brazing between the steerer plug to the crown's tube insert was VERY weak.

Picture speaks 1000 words.

 

atombikes

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
525
2
0
Northern VA
Depending on the size of the steerer tube, they would have been much better sleeving the outside of the steerer, rather than placing a plug in the ID. Was the plug solid, or a tube? If it was solid, no wonder the steerer snapped- heating up a solid plug to brazing temp is surely going to overheat the steerer tube in the heat affected zone to the point of embrittlement.

The other problem with sleeving the ID of a steerer tube; the inside diameter is not constant, especially down near the fork crown. The tube actually becomes thicker near the crown, so a plug placed on the inside will probably be "loose" unless the plug is cone shaped (exageration to illustrate the point).

And that "short sleeve" on the outside; totally not required at all if the joint was done properly. Looks to me like they were using this plug as a backer for the short sleeve. But the plug was essentially pulling all the heat away from the joint so maybe the brazed joint was cold?
 

Maxvision

New Member
Jun 13, 2009
551
1
0
San Diego, CA
Actually, my diagram was a bit incorrect in displaying the plug as solid. It has about a 3/8" hole through it. It was also turned on a lathe where it is thick at one end to fit inside the steerer tube and thinner on the other side to fit in a hole in the top insert tube which is the part of the crown that fit inside the original steerer.

You're right in guessing that it was a cold weld. The brazing barely penetrated beyond the surface of the steerer. There was no brazing at all on the plut or the crown insert.

I LOADED it up with Silver Brazing rod. Used almost 1/2 stick and got it plenty hot enough to penetrate deeply.

I'm not so sure about what you said that high heat would embrittle the steerer. Heating or annealing metal is what you do to make it softer and more ductile, releaving internal stress in the metal.