I have a skyhawk frame coming in and plan to throw my 66cc Flying Horse motor on it. What I want to know is, do I need to bother throwing a chain tensioner near the rear sprocket? Or is there already enough tension? Additionally, the kit I received had a sprocket holder that clamped on each sides of the spokes of the rear wheel. Should I upgrade this and if so what do I use? I want to get the fastest speed possible so I am also wondering if I should use a single speed crank or an 8 speed. How many teeth should the rear wheel sprocket have for this type engine? I need help!
Need advice for first build!
- Thread starter Jakepetre
- Start date
Do you have any picture examples or links I can follow to understand how that is assembled? And what of the chain tensioner? Do I need one?
don't have a pic right now (got a couple on shelf, but no camera here)
look at a normal derailer & see that opening for the axle of hanger is to the right - now picture it exactly the same except that opening for the axle is to the left
this allows you to get rid of tensioner by sliding the axle to adjust chain
look at a normal derailer & see that opening for the axle of hanger is to the right - now picture it exactly the same except that opening for the axle is to the left
this allows you to get rid of tensioner by sliding the axle to adjust chain
Once you have your bike assembled, cut the chain as short as you can with it still being able to connect. You'll notice that you still have have a good amount of slack -- the stock chain tensioner isn't the best but it will still do you some good. You don't HAVE to put I on, but i would recommend it.
The stock sprocket mount (the 2 pieces of rubber) works, but isn't too great. The best way to mount your sprocket is with a hub adapter (metal that clamps to your hub and how your sprocket is connected). Most people recommend the manic mechanic adapter, do some googling!
Either a single or 8 speed is your choice, the motor will do most of the hauling for you amyway.
As for the size of your sprocket...
*Bigger/more teeth = More torque, less speed
*Smaller = More speed, less torque
44T sprockets are a nice balance.
The stock sprocket mount (the 2 pieces of rubber) works, but isn't too great. The best way to mount your sprocket is with a hub adapter (metal that clamps to your hub and how your sprocket is connected). Most people recommend the manic mechanic adapter, do some googling!
Either a single or 8 speed is your choice, the motor will do most of the hauling for you amyway.
As for the size of your sprocket...
*Bigger/more teeth = More torque, less speed
*Smaller = More speed, less torque
44T sprockets are a nice balance.
Fellas I have a problem, the crown race pieces from my diamondback don't fit in the female portion of the form tube of my Skyhawk frame. The stem of my mtn bike fork is 1.125 or 1 1/8" but I can't seem to make anything fit. The tube for fork on my Skyhawk seems quite large but still doesn't fit the crown race pieces since the tube that normally slides into the female section of the frame are too small. What pieces do I need?
Pardon me, I believe the piece that doesn't fit is called the upper or lower headtube race.
Not sure what you mean exactly, in this picture my mtn bike with the 1inch tube is on the left and I am holding the downtube race(shown being inserted on the top), and fits perfectly. The same piece doesn't fit on my larger downtube of the gold Skyhawk frame. To which I ask, are the two pieces resting on the shelf in this picture the substituted downtube race pieces? Of so how to I make them fit into the frame properly? This bearing assembly is confusing with all of the plastic pieces, shims, spacers, and metal components of non-friendly diameters.
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Am wondering where I can find a set of headset reducer's and exactly what size I need.
The headset from your mountain bike won't fit, the GT2A frames use what's called a semi-integrated headset. And you have the bearing cups for it sitting on your shelf in that picture. You should also have 2 sets of caged bearings and the races there too.
Cups are the same top and bottom, press them in like this:
Then pack the bearings with grease and insert in the cups:
Then you've got a bigger wide top race that goes over the top and a smaller race that is the crown race you set onto the fork crown. The semi integrated headset confuses a lot of people, it's a sort of rare type to use.
Excellent thank you. Do you have a link to purchase such a headset?The headset from your mountain bike won't fit, the GT2A frames use what's called a semi-integrated headset. And you have the bearing cups for it sitting on your shelf in that picture. You should also have 2 sets of caged bearings and the races there too.
Cups are the same top and bottom, press them in like this:
Then pack the bearings with grease and insert in the cups:
Then you've got a bigger wide top race that goes over the top and a smaller race that is the crown race you set onto the fork crown. The semi integrated headset confuses a lot of people, it's a sort of rare type to use.
A complete headset should have been included with your frame if you got it new. Do you have any more parts that came with it? Take a pic and I can tell you if you've got all your pieces.
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From left to right:
Old cups from mtn bike and too small to fit, no clue, no clue, no clue, bearings, seals?, no ****ing clue, starnut, threaded cap, old cap, old bolt, no clue
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You've got some extra parts there, BUT, you have everything you need.
A couple parts I'm not sure of at all they look like they might be traditional bearing cups, a closer pic from a lower angle would help. You might have two crown races there, or one of them is a plastic compression ring for the top that goes over the top race. The part I labeled "compression ring", is that metal or plastic? The compression ring should be plastic. I think you have three lower seals, you only need one. You've definitely got two top caps. The big spacer you don't have to use if you don't want to, it will help raise your stem and bars, the second spacer would optionally go on top of that.
A couple parts I'm not sure of at all they look like they might be traditional bearing cups, a closer pic from a lower angle would help. You might have two crown races there, or one of them is a plastic compression ring for the top that goes over the top race. The part I labeled "compression ring", is that metal or plastic? The compression ring should be plastic. I think you have three lower seals, you only need one. You've definitely got two top caps. The big spacer you don't have to use if you don't want to, it will help raise your stem and bars, the second spacer would optionally go on top of that.
The ring is metal and here is a different pic.You've got some extra parts there, BUT, you have everything you need.
A couple parts I'm not sure of at all they look like they might be traditional bearing cups, a closer pic from a lower angle would help. You might have two crown races there, or one of them is a plastic compression ring for the top that goes over the top race. The part I labeled "compression ring", is that metal or plastic? The compression ring should be plastic. I think you have three lower seals, you only need one. You've definitely got two top caps. The big spacer you don't have to use if you don't want to, it will help raise your stem and bars, the second spacer would optionally go on top of that.
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Yeah, those cups on the left of the second pic are traditional bearing cups, you would use those, OR the other set if they both fit. I used the lower profile ones in my pics above gives a nice clean appearance. The compression ring should be plastic have a split in it and have a beveled ege on one side that would fit down into the taper on the top race. Not critical if you don't have it though. You definitely have 2 crown races there you only need one for your fork. Not sure what that ring with the notches is.
