Drive chain sticks

George Tirebiter · Jun 8, 2015

I installed the Manic Mechanic Sprocket Adapter Assembly (36 Tooth Sprocket)
but the chain seems to stick to the sprocket when I roll the bike. The chain is not too tight or too loose. Is this normal?

Slogger · Jun 8, 2015

Mine did that. The teeth would make a dink dink sound as the chain came off them.
It needed to be aligned better. After I moved it out some it was fine.
The chain should center on the teeth, when it does it's real quiet and smooth. The tensioner was pushing mine out of line, too.
~Regards

2door · Jun 8, 2015

Agreed. Chain and sprocket alignment is critical. I'll attach a diagram so you can see what we mean by proper chain and sprocket alignment.

Also chain lubrication is important. Are you lubing your chain? And what with?

Tom

George Tirebiter · Jun 8, 2015

Thanks Tom, the diagram is very helpful. What lube should I use on the chain?

2door · Jun 8, 2015

George,
Preferences for chain lube are as varied as the members here. Everyone has their favorites and will swear it is the best. You'll have to experiment and find out what works best for you.
Personally I use chainsaw chain and bar lube. It has served me well. You'll get other opinions on drive chain lube so stand by.

Tom

George Tirebiter · Jun 8, 2015

Tom, OK great. Thanks!
George

GoreWound · Jun 9, 2015

I have some general purpose white lithium grease I have been using it for everything: bike chains, door hinges, you name it.

using it as chain lube works awesome it sticks well and gets inside all the parts of the chain link. that said it also spatters @&$#%$&#@**$%^$@$^*#!!??#%?#$$&*ing everywhere!
I was using some purpose made chain lube from a bike shop but it tended to drip right off the chain, the lithium grease stays there untill the chain really gets moving.
ultimately I'm going to stick with the think grease because a giant tube of it is like five bucks and a tiny bottle of bike-chain lube is like fifteen.

those clamshell adapters are really good you can just loosen the two bolts that tighten around the hub and slide it back and forth to align the sprockets.

George Tirebiter · Jun 9, 2015

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated!

Chaz · Jun 10, 2015

I'm also a big fan of white lithium grease spray. The key is to look for one that mentions that it sets up heavy. I misplaced my favourite can and don't remember the brand name. The next one I bought was made by wd40 and it did not set up near as heavy. I don't have that one in front of me so I can't say if it mentions heavy on the can.

That first can was fantastic stuff. It sprayed on like liquid and then set up real heavy.

You can spray some into a cup and then quickly apply it to the chain with a small paintbrush... it's less messy than spraying it on.

Mike B · Jun 10, 2015

I have found that the best way to lube a chain is to use a spray grease lube.

Right after a ride while the chain is still nice and warm, put the bike on a center stand or anything that lets the wheel spin. Start the motor and let out the clutch. Spray the grease right on the rear sprocket close to the chain for at least a whole chain length. This gets the stuff right where you want it, into the pins and bushings where it belongs and not all over everything else.

Then shut it down and forget it for another 250 miles.

Slogger · Jun 10, 2015

In the 1960s we would take our motorcycle chain off and soak it overnight in kerosene.
After drip drying it for a while, some of the guys would use motor oil, but it quickly slings off, so I always used heavy grease squeezed into the chain by hand, like packing a wheelbearing.
Then you wipe off every bit of it you can. My chains lasted a long time.
O-ring chains came along so from then on I skipped the kerosene soak to keep from washing out their grease. I just greased them, and wiped them off clean after.
The commercial spray chain lubes are terrible. They're sticky and collect dirt and grit til the o-rings are destroyed.
So far I've neglected my MB chain. No respect.
I better get out there and do this.
Thanks for the reminder.

George Tirebiter · Jun 12, 2015

I've attached a few pics of the sprocket. It seems to be aligned properly but as you can see, as the chain leaves the sprocket it still catches. The sprocket cannot be adjusted any further out. When I lift the wheel to spin it I notice a small wobble. Could this be the problem? Please HELP! This is driving me crazy.

Chaz · Jun 12, 2015

Yep, the wheel wobble is part of the problem but your chain looks pretty slack as well. You can true the wheel with a spoke wrench or something. If your pedal chain will allow it move the whole axle back into the crotch of wheel dropouts. If it won't allow that then you will have to remove a link or three from your drive chain. If you don't have a chain breaker tool you can remove the chain and use a punch over an appropriate sized socket from a socket set.

Slogger · Jun 12, 2015

The bolts holding the sprocket on show that the countersinks aren't deep enough or those aren't the right type of bolts. If the bolts are not sunk flush, it could be leaving the sprocket a little crooked.
You might have the wheel out of alignment with the frame, with an adapter this would definitely cause a problem since its angle is always same as the hub.
Can't tell from the pics, is your wheel aligned?

crassius · Jun 12, 2015

chain seems adjusted too loose, but not if there is a tighter spot

how new is the chain? they stretch about 1/2in after a few miles and fit better than

also, you could file that sprocket thinner

George Tirebiter · Jun 13, 2015

Thanks for the info. This is my first build and I haven't even fired it up yet. I want to get this dang sprocket issue fixed first. I will try pulling the wheel back and tighten up the chain. Hope this works.
George

Motakitty · Jul 19, 2015

It looks as if the sprocket is backwards. Are you using the stock 415 chain? It wouldn't fit mine

George Tirebiter · Jul 19, 2015

Yes you're right. The 415 chain wouldn't fit. Had to go with the 41 chain. Works great. Thanks for the reply.
George

2door · Jul 19, 2015

The chain is way too loose. You have nearly horizontal drop outs. You can get rid of that tensioner and shorten the chain. I also agree that you either have the sprocket on backwards or it wasn't countersunk correctly by the manufacturer. Those bolts should fit flush with the surface of the sprocket. Check the back side to see if the holes are countersunk.

What is wobbling? The rim or the sprocket? Installed correctly the hub adapter/sprocket can't wobble on the hub. If the rim is wobbling it needs to be trued. That requires some experience so either read up on the procedure or have your local bike shop do it.

And yes, a wobble will cause you trouble. The chain will derail, bind on the sprockets and cause premature wear of that aluminum sprocket.

Tom

George Tirebiter · Jul 19, 2015

I have the chain on pretty tight now. I know those bolts on the adapter are not flush but it's not on backwards and it's on tight. I will check to see if the other holes would fit better but I bent the coaster brake enough that it clears everything. There is no wobble now. It actually works fine and the bike is running great. I started out with a 24:1 mix and just used the first gallon. Do you recommend going to 32:1 until it's broken in? Thanks,
George

Drive chain sticks

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