Right now, your first gear is 37.78:1 and 9th gear is 12.22:1. Eighth gear is 14.44:1, 7th gear is 16.66:1. Changing to 38t lowers First gear to 42.22:1, which is a good thing. On my 8-speed shift kit, First gear is 46.36:1, Second is 38.18:1, 7th is 17.73:1 and final drive is 15:1. I rarely use First, as 38.18 is more than enough for steep hills. My bike, all my gear and I prolly weigh 310lbs. You'll love the 38t, especially when your original First gear was 34:1.
my 2006 rocky mountain element.
this build is totaly different from using the china kits, and the shifter kits, this was completely DIY. motor mounts to figuring out how to shift. i choose a honda gx35 mated to a pocket bike 5:1 reduction trans. i grinded down the output shaft to 3/8 and cut in a key slot. next, i bought a 9t 410 sprocket with a key slot and taped for allen keys. the pocket bike trans sprockets are only avail in 12 and 10t, the 10t's from DAX being no heat treated stamped out of tin foil, were useless i went through one in a week. the 9t powers the fromt sprocket sized 48T. the main difference between this bike and the shift kits, is the fact that i have a reversing output shaft trans, so i had to mount the engine air intake forward, backwards from the kits. this allowed me to go directly to the from sprocket only using 2 chains, but to acheive enough reduction i have to reduce in my bicycle gears. not a big prob. the 48t is conected to a 24t and the 24t powers 34-11t 9 speed cassette. i plan to reinstal my front derailer so i will have 36 and 24t in the front. this would be optimal for riding it like a bicycle which is still very easy since this entire build weights very little i would guess less then 50lbs dry. the gas tank is a go-ped 1.5 liter mounted on a front rack. rack 20$ tank 35-ebay. this is a two line carb engine so this tank works well. the nice thing about the gx35 is it can suck gas into it so i could literaly put the gas tank anywhere. the handle bars are fly racing for a pit bicycle. forget which ones i found ones with the goemetry i liked. the air cleaner is for a pocket bike carb slightly motified to fit the gx35. pull start. at the moment it has a very short pipe, its very loud. i am planning on routing the exhaust around the bottom to the other side and over the trans and come out under the seat, and ill get a silencer for it, to make the hippies happy. people always cover their ears when i go by but i think its good cuz loud pipes save lives. most of the parts i got from SBP and staton.
ill post a video of riding this thing as soon as i can
this thing does 25 up a hill, easily 40 on a downhill and goes 30 on a flat no prob. im sure it will be faster after i finish my exhaust. and im no light fella. i weigh 225 lbs. lol.
im thinking of adding a 38t for the first gear. im thinking of setting it up so ill have a super low first for off road and steep steep hills and wheelies. lol.
but on flat or at a light the 34t is great for starting at the moment. there available on ebay, and since im running a cassette, ill just simple toss a lower gear. so ill still have my 11t. and ill have 38-11t. thats a huge range.
built thread: gx35 full suspension w/ 18 speeds (inframe too!)
- Thread starter unknownbmxa88
- Start date
I've run goped tanks on my bikes before. For me, they were messy to fill, and I ALWAYS lost the gas caps, lol. You might want to consider a 4-liter peanut tank mounted on your top tube. Awesome driving range, easy to fill and you can find a locking gas cap for it. You can also install a small "catch can" for the return line, instead of punching a hole in the 4-liter tank.
havent had any problems with it yet. i like how its mounted out of the way so when i actually pedal the bike i dont hit my knees on it.
Awsome! I want to go. But I don't want to carry my bike home... Let me know what you do would ya? My first custom build will be for that kind of riding (done xmas 2013?). I went across that pass in a 1986 Toyota Celica in about 98. Not kidding. Apparently the road was in the best shape it had been in in a while, because I've been back, and I couldn't see any way I did that!
Watched your video- that Gas-Bike is tight! (Watched the other one too. When I drove taxi, I heard about a driver in a Crown Vic doing reverse donuts and various other rubber mark leaving activity on every level- and ramps- of that parking garage. That guy is frickin awsome. Just ask me, I'll tell ya
)To those of you not familiar with Flathead Pass in the Bozeman Montana area, google earth or whatever it. Unknown is a go-getter, no doubt.
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To those of you not familiar with Flathead Pass in the Bozeman Montana area, google earth or whatever it. Unknown is a go-getter, no doubt.[/QUOTE]
yeah the pass is the only friggin way to get into the forest service without walking because they close all the stupid gates. and its far enough out of town to get away from hippies for the most part...
yeah the pass is the only friggin way to get into the forest service without walking because they close all the stupid gates. and its far enough out of town to get away from hippies for the most part...
Excellent top end for a mild-mannered engine. Thanks for sharing info. I'm in the midst of an inframe/CY460 engine build.
unknownbmxa88,
Nice build...!
What length bottom bracket did you choose for pedal clearance for the left side?
Thanks for sharing,
-Lowracer-
Nice build...!
What length bottom bracket did you choose for pedal clearance for the left side?
Thanks for sharing,
-Lowracer-
i used the 206 mm cartridge bottow bracket that sickbikeparts.com sells.
its WIIIDEEE. riding it like a it kinda weird at first but you get used to it.. penty of clearance. and my motor is really wide.
unknown,
I got mine together though I'm going to relocate the engine mount higher up and more forward (above the toptube). I think what you mentioned about a dual freewheel front might be a good solution. Did you create one?
-Lowracer-
I got mine together though I'm going to relocate the engine mount higher up and more forward (above the toptube). I think what you mentioned about a dual freewheel front might be a good solution. Did you create one?
-Lowracer-
it would have worked but i have been eating derailers lately. one of the times i actually had the derailer wrap around the rear drop out and it cracked the drop out in my frame, so i had to fab a new lower swing arm section. the dual freewheel got set on the backburner for now. lol
broke another derailer! rats! well i think im gonna winterize the engine and save up money for a three speed internal. i really like the 5 speed sturmny archer hubs but idk if they would hold up. or one of the shimano nexus 7 speeds. that would be awesome! expensive tho. and i could use a 410 chain so i would have better reliyability
ha i have gotten a couple of new motors to tinker with so well see what i come up with this winter. a gx160 and a 35cc chainsaw
Can you post pictures of your broken derailleurs, Unknown?
What I am thinking is if there is a consistent weak-link, maybe we could come up with a work around. Would be of great help to many folks.
be a fun project.
What I am thinking is if there is a consistent weak-link, maybe we could come up with a work around. Would be of great help to many folks.
be a fun project.
yeah, i would but i took them apart to salvage the small peices that i could. what was happening to mine was i think it was jumping the first gear into the space between the spokes and the sprocket and then the chain pulled the derailer the wrong way almost all the way around the wheel backwards.
