Oil in clutch

GoldenMotor.com
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hippz

New Member
Oct 22, 2014
6
0
0
Canada
Hello,

I have recently been having a plethora of problems after about 3500 miles with my GT5A. The worst of which is that oil has been making its way into the clutch. And a lot of it. I take the clutch apart, wipe up as much as I can, put it back together with some paper towel in between the pads and friction plate and make it real tight to soak up the rest, take the paper towel out, put it back together and try to start it. It slips for a second but finally starts, but within 5 minutes it's slipping again, and I have to do all of this again, which even then it doesn't work if it's hot. How can I stop all this oil from making it in there, and most importantly how is this even happening in the first place?

When this first started happening, I put in less oil because I thought maybe I was putting in too much. I did this too much and seized the piston, so I replaced the cylinder (luckily I carried a spare, as this happened in the middle of the desert in Mexico) and both gaskets. That might have something to do with it being worse now, but of course it was already happening before.

Also, I have never fully taken the whole engine apart before, I don't have all the tools I need on me. Does old oil normally pool up in there and I'd need to take it apart to empty it out?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Kioshk

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
Sometimes you can get away with giving the clutch-pads and the plates a good wash with automotive brake-cleaner. If you've confirmed it's "pooling" in the chamber, then it's blow-by from the crankcase, not grease from the clutch-spring chamber. This points to a crankshaft seal failure, and you will need to disassemble the motor. Get the $7 gear-puller, a 10mm wrench, 13mm & 14mm sockets, a set of screwdrivers, a rubber mallet, a replacement gasket kit, and a replacement crankshaft gasket. May as well get both (the magneto side too) if you're gonna be in there. It's really not as daunting as it looks, and you really should know how to reassemble your engine anyway. I make a point of disassembling and reassembling any new engine I get to make sure it's done right. I also like to upgrade the bearings.
 
H

hippz

New Member
Oct 22, 2014
6
0
0
Canada
Okay, I'm at someone's place that is letting me use their tools. I am currently on a bicycle tour with a very small budget. Anything I can do that doesn't involve ordering parts / tools online and paying $20 shipping for is what I'd like to go for. I have some cork/rubber gasket material, and I've pried the engine drive sprocket off without the puller before (puller end of a hammer and a screwdriver). Is it possible to remove the clutch gear / pad assembly without a puller as well? Also, would that gasket material be sufficient to make a crankcase gasket out of?

As you may already be able to tell, I knew nothing of engines before I got this, and am learning as I go. Thanks for the help.
 
maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
The seals are under $20 and any bicycle engine vendor should be able to get them. You will most likely need the kit puller to remove the small gear to gain access to the seal.
It's an easy fix and critical to a good running motor as seal failure leads to air leaks which can cause meltdowns and severe damage.
 
crassius

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
63
USA
two checks before replacing seal - check that oil is not from a leaking carb or fuel line dripping into clutch cover - check that the main bearing on the crank on that side can't be pried up with a screwdriver which means the crank is bouncing up/down & will never seal
 
Kioshk

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
MotorBicycleRacing said:
Absolutely no need to disassemble the motor to replace crankshaft seals.

Just pull the bevel gear and the magnet to install them from the outside.
The magnet side seal is thinner on most motors.
Click to expand...
"Absolutely"? You might want to qualify that statement with some detailed instructions. True, it's possible to destructively pry those steel-ring reinforced seals out with a SMALL flat-head screwdriver without splitting the case, but is sure as heck isn't intuitive. Furthermore, without splitting the case, it's unlikely you can verify a bad seal; your method assumes it's bad, and destroys it in the process.
 
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