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DIY Home Built Motorized Bicycle (non kit) Post all about your home built rides here. Weedwacker motors, lawn mower engines ect. This area is for non kit builds

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  #21  
Old 03-01-2016, 09:07 AM
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silverbear silverbear is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

I have a similar drain plug problem on my 5 horse Tecumseh on the "Kindalikeawhizzer" build. I find that I need to lower the engine a couple more inches,but that will make removing the drain plug either a pita or impossible. Looking at the plug Ludwig posted got me to thinking about the problem again and seeing it on the screen magically transported me to the hardware store... and I saw a possible solution for me which involves an elbow threaded in and something or other threaded to the other end of the elbow leading to a valve to drain the oil into a container. Real time in the plumbing department and staring at stuff should lead to some kind of Rube Goldberg solution. Thanks!
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  #22  
Old 03-01-2016, 04:13 PM
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Looks really nice and well sorted. No middle of the seat tube jackshaft cluttering the appearance.. Nice big tank and headlight... Nice job!
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  #23  
Old 03-01-2016, 07:39 PM
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cannonball2 cannonball2 is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Thanks beginner01!

Its coming along. I have some ideas for it when I get home in a few days. Got a bit of engine work like rebuild the carb and decarbonize the head/valve area. Of course paint too. The worst is done.
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  #24  
Old 03-01-2016, 07:43 PM
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cannonball2 cannonball2 is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludwig II View Post
What about a plug like this?

I bought a plug like that for the rear, a brass hex socket type. It barely clears. The front had no room so the stock plug was sawed off flush. Will just drain from the side cover.
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  #25  
Old 03-05-2016, 07:02 AM
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cannonball2 cannonball2 is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Got back last night and most of the parts I ordered had come in. So will spend a full day on the bike. Will tackle the fenders, chain guard and the foot rest issue.

Interestingly I was looking at city bikes online and saw a Schwinn with an unusual frame It had a double loop rear section. The rear rim brakes were mounted almost exactly like this bikes.
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  #26  
Old 03-05-2016, 03:08 PM
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cannonball2 cannonball2 is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Got most of what I wanted to do today done.

Got the fenders mounted. Had to section the rear fender because the previous owner of the bike butchered the front part for clearance for the chain for the 48cc CG that was on the bike when I got it. Also For what ever reason the Chinese use a shorter fender than I like, almost looks like a bobber. So I lengthened the fender while I was at it. Looks better now. A bit of filler and all will be well.
The front fender is from a donor bike. Its a bit narrower but had to use it to get the rim brake to work. I moved it forward a bit so the brake aligns with the indents for the fork on the other bike. Worked great.

Am really tired of crappy brake handles. Got a pair of repro Amal handles for classic British M/Cs. Can probably crush the rims with these dudes. 3speed shifter will go on the left--KC Vale style.

Got an original made in the USofA Do Ray clearance light for the tail light. A bit of trimming and some black paint and it will fit the bill. Came in a vintage Sears box. Probably older than a lot of folks on the forum here. Thinking late 60s early 70s?

Added faux pedals for foot rests. Welded up a mount using a 3pc spindle. Main reason besides it looks right is that the placement gets my left foot back out of the left side chain area. I have a chain guard but distance is good too. The right side is largely in the clear. Found a seller that sells pedal spacers(stainless, really nice) for half of what others cost. Pedal is spaced 25mm and feels perfect. The left is a 150mm crank while the right is a 170. Keeps from stretching so far back on the left.

Welded the H/L bracket to the fork to take the load off the brake thru bolt. Light is pretty heavy. Both lights will be converted to LED.

So far so good.
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Last edited by cannonball2; 03-05-2016 at 03:17 PM.
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  #27  
Old 03-05-2016, 03:11 PM
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cannonball2 cannonball2 is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Last Pictures.
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  #28  
Old 03-05-2016, 03:48 PM
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scratchbuilder scratchbuilder is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Nice!! Fenders got a nice fit all around the tire. Always thinking huh..one short, one long 'foot peg'. Like the levers too. Been thinking off trying mc levers. Tank has a good look. Hey I've got a nexus, how did you mount your sprocket?

Last edited by scratchbuilder; 03-05-2016 at 03:53 PM. Reason: thought
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  #29  
Old 03-05-2016, 06:25 PM
scrollerguy scrollerguy is offline
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Cool Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Would you please expand your bottom bracket modification and your # of teeth on both sprockets?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks in advance.
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  #30  
Old 03-05-2016, 09:57 PM
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cannonball2 cannonball2 is offline
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Default Re: Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

Thanks Scratch!

You have a good eye on the fenders. Had to make two small extensions the extend the rear fender to get the proper spacing. Details details.

A common CG sprocket will bolt directly to an 18t sprocket on an IGH or coaster, aligns easily and runs very true.


Scrollerguy

The BB mod is just flange bearings bolted to the BB. The clutch is a 12t, mainly because I screwed up and ordered that instead of the 11t I wanted. It runs to a 28T which I had on hand. This also keeps the sprocket size small for clearance. These are #35 chain. This gets the most teeth in the smallest overall size.

The secondary side is a 9t to a 44t running a BMX chain. This gives an 11.41 overall ratio. The 3speed Nexus takes this ratio to a 15:1 for low and an 8:1 for 3rd. 2nd is direct drive at the 11:41. This gives a top speed around 43mph should I want twist the engine to 4750rpm which a stocker will do no problem.
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