Finally got the build off to a start.

First build: A Schwinn Clairmont

Well, To start I have a Schwinn Clairmont for the frame. I originally bought the bike planning to keep the 7 speed not having a definite idea of what engine I was going to use. I have since then ordered a set of aluminum Worksman wheels from Sportsman Flyer. I am going to be running his drum front/cb-110 rear hubs (yes I know the 110 is narrower).

So now I have a pile of brake arms/pads, a derailleur, twist grip shifter, junk wheels, and some other stuff. the only pieces I will be using are the frame, seat and forks (maybe the crank set and one brake lever/cable if they work). I have since ordered, received, mocked up a Qmatic kit from EZM. It is still not finished as I am waiting on the wheels to arrive.

I had a problem with the engine mount not wanting to cooperate at first but have since persuaded it to do so. I took a small (dremel) grinder wheel and took some material off the mounting blocks to change the angle off the seat post/down tube. after getting the angles close enough I ran into another snag on the front mounting block. The holes for the bolts were not in line. 1 was 1/4 inch lower than the other causing the mount to tweak when tightened. Nothing a drill bit and some elbow grease couldn't handle though.

I also got rid of the flat stock that would be used to mount the blocks to the frame and used some brackets from 1.5" muffler clamps. these seem to work better as they conform to the frame better. I also upgraded to grade 8 bolts for the mount. other than the following issue (only took about 1 hour to correct) everything is off to a good start. I will post pics soon.

Front mounting block before altering the holes, you can see how they were staggered


These are the exhaust clamps I used, they are 1.5" diameter clamps and the bolt holes lined up perfect.




and the bike on my sweet custom bike stand. I have since strapped the front rim to the frame using a ratchet strap. and the black material is from an old nylon belt that no longer fits me.

Neither can I. I am waiting for my worksman wheels to arrive before I start making any final steps. I am hoping that going from a 135mm rear hub to a 110mm wont pose any chain alignment issues.

Well, today I got home to a pleasant surprise. My Worksman wheels arrived so I was able to get my bike off blocks. I have to say, these wheels are awesome. Super strong and it was really easy to get the rubber on them. The back wheel DOES come with the Shimano CB-E110 in case anybody was/is curious. I have to now figure out a way to make my front fender clear the exhaust. I may go SS flex pipe or something, I don't really like the look of the kit exhaust anyway. I also added the ape hangers and a RAM mount for my phone.

Just another in better lighting! Just a sprocket adapter w/ sprocket and non-kit chain tensioner is all that is needed now! Then I'll be riding!

So, at this point, my list of parts includes:

-Schwinn Clairmont
-EZMotorbike Qmatic kit
-Massload dual leg stand
-Worksman aluminum wheels w/stainless 12g spokes (drum front,coaster rear)
-Kenda Kross tires 26x1.95 off my yellow Cannondale
-10" rise ape hanger bars from bike shop
-6" 1 piece crank (also from local bike shop, They think I'm building a low rider)
-Ram mount universal cell phone holder.

Parts needed

-sprocket adapter w/56t sprocket
-chain tensioner (both sides)
-Good lighting (this is where I am stumped)

Thanks Darkhawk, I am wanting to get the adapter that Sportman Flyer makes but he does not have them in stock. I have seen the pirate cycles one as well, I like the 3 piece design from sportsman a little more though. I will check out the CREE lighting. Does anybody have any experience with the 6 volt system from Peter White cycles. I have heard too many horror stories from the kit tensioners, I will probably make my own out of some flat stock and some u bolts. I have vertical drop outs so I can see it being necessary.

I'll have to check that out too! I like the massload so far. It comes with 2 bolts for different mounts. It also comes with a little block to go above the chain stays (thats what the longer bolt is used for). If you zoom in on my pic above, you can see the block just forward of the rear fender. It rides really close to the pedal side chain when stowed but doesent seem to be an issue. I have mine adjusted all the way down right now and with it all the way up, it lifts the back tire about a foot in the air.

Update! With pics! I had some issues with the throttle in my kit so I got this one!

Got a mirror and Airzound horn! Don't mind the mess!

Close up of the horn!

I didn't like the look of the peanut tank so I ordered this one from ebay and bought a cloud 9 seat for my bottom side! I will most likely repaint the tank. I am using slightly larger fuel line for a briggs engine and a briggs fuel filter and shut off.

Also running a Pirate Cycles 56t sprocket and adapter.

Chain isn't on because I just finished making my tensioner bracket. It's not perfect but for a piece of steel, a cordless drill, an angle grinder and some paint at least it wont get sucked into my spokes!

The bike ran good before winter. Using the 56t gear gives it a good top end and makes the acceleration a little slow of the line but I pedal with it to about 15 before I run out of pedal gearing. The throttle is a sickbikeparts.com and the mirror is from the local bike shop (ill get info when I get home). The horn is an airzound refillable air horn (look on Amazon) that turns 80psi into 115db. The tank is a whizzer reproduction from wildfire powersports that you can find on eBay for like 54+shipping.

For those that would like info on my mirror it is a Mountain Mirrycle (pronounced miracle). I got it from the bike shop for 14$ and the cool part is that the parts can be purchased separately if they break. The mirror itself is glass and the arms are plastic but feel strong. The mirror is also convex so you get a huge field of view but with that the objects look further away.

On a separate note, I have noticed that, when coasting, my engine chain has been rubbing my seat stay after it comes off the sprocket. Can I put another idler on top to keep the chain from slapping when not under load?

Thanks Bill, just what I wanted to hear.