have tried to increase the idle. no success. With clutch engaged, twist throttle. there must be a better way. the mixture screw is almost all the way out. I have moved the butterfly. any suggestions?
faster idling
- Thread starter johnro28
- Start date
We need to know what engine and carburetor you have before offering help.
Typically, most idle screws need to be screwed in to increase the idle speed. Nevertheless, we still need more information.
Tom
Typically, most idle screws need to be screwed in to increase the idle speed. Nevertheless, we still need more information.
Tom
The idle speed screw on the NT carburetor is actually just a blocking mechanism that prevents the throttle slide or barrel from moving lower. Screw it in to increase the idle speed, out to decrease it. It is not a needle valve type of screw adjustment.
Does everything else seem to work? Is the engine running good? Does it start easy? Does the idle speed seem to increase with engine temperature increase?
In your first post you said, "I have moved the butterfly". I'm not sure what you mean by that. There is no butterfly in the NT carb. There is a choke plate and the cylindrical throttle slide or barrel. Are you running with the choke open or closed? You can remove the air cleaner and look in the inlet throat of the carburetor to see how the choke opens and closes. For normal running it should be open.
I hope some of this has helped but if not get back to us and we'll get you fixed up.
Tom
Does everything else seem to work? Is the engine running good? Does it start easy? Does the idle speed seem to increase with engine temperature increase?
In your first post you said, "I have moved the butterfly". I'm not sure what you mean by that. There is no butterfly in the NT carb. There is a choke plate and the cylindrical throttle slide or barrel. Are you running with the choke open or closed? You can remove the air cleaner and look in the inlet throat of the carburetor to see how the choke opens and closes. For normal running it should be open.
I hope some of this has helped but if not get back to us and we'll get you fixed up.
Tom
the butterfly I referred to is on the end of the throttle cable. the end that goes vertically into the carb. It is like a small retaining ring. The text refers to it (jet pin "pac man" clip. Thanks again
It's not a mix screw, all that screw does is lift the barrel.
To start, put the screw all the way in, and give it 2-3 full turns out. This is to zero it out - that's actually the LAST place you want to adjust when setting your idle.
On top of the carb, there is the cable tension nut. Loosen or tighten that to about halfway.
Now, on the throttle grip, set the cable tension to remove all of the slack. You may have to play with the cable tension nut on top of the carb at the same time to get it set right.
You'll notice you're ready to start when you feel the throttle cable nice and taut. Now you can fire it up, and adjust the fine tune idle screw on the carb to where you'd like the rpms to be!
The butterfly you're referring to is for air fuel mix, you'll want it heavier than comfortable for break in period, then you can really start dialing in your carb and leaning it out.
To start, put the screw all the way in, and give it 2-3 full turns out. This is to zero it out - that's actually the LAST place you want to adjust when setting your idle.
On top of the carb, there is the cable tension nut. Loosen or tighten that to about halfway.
Now, on the throttle grip, set the cable tension to remove all of the slack. You may have to play with the cable tension nut on top of the carb at the same time to get it set right.
You'll notice you're ready to start when you feel the throttle cable nice and taut. Now you can fire it up, and adjust the fine tune idle screw on the carb to where you'd like the rpms to be!
The butterfly you're referring to is for air fuel mix, you'll want it heavier than comfortable for break in period, then you can really start dialing in your carb and leaning it out.
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Some progress has been made. I moved the "pac man" retainer clip to the lowest slot. While doing this, of course, I dropped the clip. Panic did set in. After much searching, I was able to find same. In the future, if I plan to move the pac man, I will first attach some white thread to same. When finished with the adj, remove the thread. Some history with my installation. The sprocket center hole was enlarged at a machine shop. $30. The black muffler, where it seats to the cylinder was not truly flush. This was corrected with the use of a flat file. Then I fashioned a clamp for the muffler to reduce vibes. The clamp consists of a u bolt clamp, and a stand of pipe clamp. I am still on my first one gallon of fuel. The spokes in the rear wheel have been upgraded to the 12 gauge recommendation. The idling has gotten better. Thank you to everybody. Where does one acquire a spare pac man clip?
. Also, when working with the chain, do yourself a favor, buy the appropriate tool.
. Also, when working with the chain, do yourself a favor, buy the appropriate tool.
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