Shift Kit freewheel trouble

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Pycngryn

New Member
Jul 9, 2011
7
0
0
Park City,Utah
I put togther a MB several weeks ago with a HD shift kit. Everything runs great, except, I'm blowing apart the HD freewheel on the front crank. I just blew apart the second one an I am still under 80 mi. on this bike. I originaly installed the Jump Stop backwards causing catastrophic chain deraillments (chain hooks around sprocket locknuts) that may have tweeked the whole crank causing the freewheel to come apart.
A new freewheel and rebuild with careful attention to alignment, extra inner chainguard and spacers, no more deraillments yet it came apart again (another long walk home).
I know that pedaling hard on the crank to start engine can damage the freewheel when the crank/engine do not want to turn over. It is the new engine? A tight build with high compression and occaionally I do have to push hard to start it up. I'm always trying to be gentle as possible yet the freewheel still spun apart while out on the road, simply puttin' along doing its "break-in".
My thoughts as to why this is happening are: Is it the hills putting too much torque on it? Is it the occasional second or third hard start crank? Is it pedaling too hard to assist engine while under power, perhaps on a hill or to get a boost of speed? I know the chain tension on the Jack shaft-front chainring is not too tight. The alignment is, I think, fine.
What is going on? Is anybody else having this problem? If so, how did you resolve this issue? Who services these freewheels? This one may be to damaged to service. New freewheels aren't cheap.
Thanks to everyone who has thought or ideas on this.
 

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ToxicAz520

New Member
Mar 11, 2011
288
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Tucson,Arizona
Sorry to hear about the blown freewheels. I have never has that yet my problem is with chain jump and catching on the nuts and jamming in the frame and chain ring. I really like the way you did yours though. I am trying to think what would cause ur freewheels to destroy that quickly I will think about it but don't kno if there is anything that I know of without being there to watch it be destroyed.
 

qwerty1

New Member
Sep 22, 2011
18
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0
in a house
You posted on 8/3 it is now 9/21, and no real answer.

You are not placing the sprockets in a balanced position.
All the stress is on the outboard side of the freewheel flange.

I do the freewheel sprocket setup on a shift kit in the following order.

Start by removing the freewheel and all of the sprockets.
Get some new screws that are about one inch long.
Get ten nuts and , ten small washers.
Also get some blue threadlocker or superglue to lock the nuts in place.

Start by placing the screws through the outer BIG sprocket then a washer then through the outside of the freewheel.
On the otherside of the freewheel flange screw a nut tightly on each screw.
then a washer, then the inner small sprocket . Then use the threadlocker on all five of the the final nuts.
You should have from the outside of the big sprocket.
A screw head, the big sprocket, a washer the outer flange of the freewheel.
On the inner side of the freewheel flange you should have
A nut, then a washer, then the small sprocket, then the outer locktited nut.
Cut off the excess screw threads protruding on the inside.
I usually have to grind the screwheads down a little to clear the crank arms.
I have never had a freewheel fail in the manner you describe .
The heavy duty freewheels from sick bike parts have a six month warranty .
The chain to the rear dérailleur needs to be the proper length.

Break the chain apart.

Without using the dérailleur. Run the chain from the front sprocket to the largest rear freewheel gear on the rear tire.
To the exact distance from the front to the largest back sprocket. Add ONE link.
Reassemble the rear chain through the dérailleur.
Test by shifting through the gears.

Good luck.
 
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Pycngryn

New Member
Jul 9, 2011
7
0
0
Park City,Utah
After a several month hiatis, I finally rebuilt the the crank with a new freewheel. This time using nuts fitted to the posts and tightened down rather than the oversized nuts supplied loosely stacked as spacers. I am still using an old freewheel flange as a spacer and a chain jam preventor on the final lock nuts on the smaller inside chainring. After a couple rides, everything is working fine, staying tight. Thanks qwerty1.
 

jolfstn

Member
Oct 30, 2011
112
2
18
Seattle, WA
I too am having this problem, SPB is replacing my blown freewheel, they provide excellent service, when I get the new one I will use your set-up instead of the standard found on their download. They should update their instructions to reflect this! Thanks for the good info.
 

Ghost0

New Member
Mar 7, 2008
763
1
0
Bellingham, WA
Yes as qwerty1 noted the installation of your chainrings on the freewheel is incorrect putting all the force on one side of the freewheel. Carefully following the installation instructions on how to assemble the chainrings onto the freewheel should solve your problems. Also should be noted that the chain guard should be on the outside protecting you from the chain. So the stack up should go as follows from right to left, chain guard, 44t chainring, freewheel flange, spacer nuts, 36t chainring. All assembled with the bolts running right to left with the locknuts on the inside.
 

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