I found the problem!

Mike B · May 18, 2011

You always have to pull the head before you even get started.

So's you can back out the long studs and locktite them.

Otherwise the head will be banging the gas tank when the studs let go.

laff

Nah, not really, the engine would die before that ever happened.

Why don't you take one of these guys' offer to exchange the motor? You can send a half sawbuck with it to pay for a new head.

Eric2.0 · May 18, 2011

mapbike said:
If I were in your shoes I would go on ebay, look up BGF, buy just an engine ONLY for $80 + shipping mount it on that bike and start riding it that same day and I'll 99.9% Guarantee

I decided I'm going to take another chance. Already a couple hundred in the hole so why not another 80?

See, I know how to start an engine...I'm not dumb that way and I know what makes them tick....so Possibly another motor will actually run. I'm also getting another NT carb along with it, because I suspect that was the problem with the "*****" motor... It had tremendous good spark after replacing the MAg and cdi.

I don't get it.... I put RTV on the intake, same with the manifold gaskets and put o ring in the throttle cap.... wired up right, exact oil mixture, gas flow is great, fuel bowl full.... Better plug....everything.
Yes..I'll get a BGF and see what happens, new NT carb. I have extra parts now...two cdi ect..... So why not....another 80 bucks.

I watch them on youtube and I get the urge to try again lol.....looks so easy on there and I saw one with a Morini....it has a kick start which would be nice.

Eric2.0 · May 18, 2011

Mike B said:
Why don't you take one of these guys' offer to exchange the motor? You can send a half sawbuck with it to pay for a new head.

I was so out of breath from pedaling it with nothing put a muffled put put everytime that I was starting to hack and legs felt bad..... I got sick of it and totally demolished it. Knocked it from the frame....

It's totally gone.

Yes I know it was stupid, but I was so damn tired of working on it with no results...no results at all, not even one powered roll-out.

DuctTapedGoat · May 19, 2011

Eric2.0 said:
I decided I'm going to take another chance. Already a couple hundred in the hole so why not another 80?

And you know - the biggest thing that got ya on that motor was that you installed it a year after you bought it. Now, when you buy the motor you'll have the assurance that you've got the retailer's warranty behind it!

mapbike · May 19, 2011

Glad to hear a little spunk in the right direction in you typed voice....LOL

that is one good thing about it, you will have a good bit of spare parts for the other engine if you need something for it down the road, these things are so much for it isnt even funny, here is a link to a short 3 min. video I made on a ride I took just out fooling around a while back, the quality isn't the greatest because I shot it with my cell camera, but it shows the fun anyway........

Just hang in there Eric and you and your Pop will be ginning along in no time, and you will need to get the stuff together and build you one so you and da can get out in the nice weather and take a cruise together, it's much more fun to have someone to ride with..... once you do the bug will get a hold of you just like it has the rest of us, it's very addicting.......

YouTube - ‪Bike ride 3-15-2011.mp4‬&rlm;

Peace

Eric2.0 said:
I decided I'm going to take another chance. Already a couple hundred in the hole so why not another 80?

See, I know how to start an engine...I'm dumb that way and I know what makes them tick....so Possibly another motor will actually run. I'm also getting another NT carb along with it, because I suspect that was the problem with the "*****" motor... It had tremendous good spark after replacing the MAg and cdi.

I don't get it.... I put RTV on the intake, same with the manifold gaskets and put o ring in the throttle cap.... wired up right, exact oil mixture, gas flow is great, fuel bowl full.... Better plug....everything.
Yes..I'll get a BGF and see what happens, new NT carb. I have extra parts now...two cdi ect..... So why not....another 80 bucks.

I watch them on youtube and I get the urge to try again lol.....looks so easy on there and I saw one with a Morini....it has a kick start which would be nice.

rohmell · May 19, 2011

Eric, I am glad that you decided to reconsider.

See, you have gotten the MB fever, and even though you may SAY that you are done, eff this sh|t, etc., in the back of your mind you want to try again, and experience the fun and enjoyment that a MB can provide.

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

mapbike said:
Glad to hear a little spunk in the right direction in you typed voice....LOL

that is one good thing about it, you will have a good bit of spare parts for the other engine if you need something for it down the road, these things are so much for it isnt even funny, here is a link to a short 3 min. video I made on a ride I took just out fooling around a while back, the quality isn't the greatest because I shot it with my cell camera, but it shows the fun anyway........

Just hang in there Eric and you and your Pop will be ginning along in no time, and you will need to get the stuff together and build you one so you and da can get out in the nice weather and take a cruise together, it's much more fun to have someone to ride with..... once you do the bug will get a hold of you just like it has the rest of us, it's very addicting.......

YouTube - ‪Bike ride 3-15-2011.mp4‬&rlm;

Peace

So that is one of those BFG engines? Sounds good.

I did in fact remove the cylinder head from the old engine today and I noticed GAS on the gasket, not just on the edge, but toward the center. Noe how would gas get between the head and head gasket? ****ty seal I'd say. Also the aluminum gasket looked LESS crushed on the side where the gas was. You could barely see the ring where the head "creases" it down into the cylinder.

I'm thinking bad seal and vacuum leak...had compression though....well I think it did. felt like it. That would explain the running out of gas sound and lack of throttle response.

P.S. This may seem strange, but I lied about destroying the engine....It's still very well inside the bike. I just get so bent out of shape that I get a little over board. I'll take a video to show it's still alive lol

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

rohmell said:
Eric, I am glad that you decided to reconsider.

See, you have gotten the MB fever, and even though you may SAY that you are done, eff this sh|t, etc., in the back of your mind you want to try again, and experience the fun and enjoyment that a MB can provide.

I know it! Trying to keep dad's spirit up as well by telling him eventually I'll get it. The pressure lol.

I think for next year though we'll go with Honda 4 stroke or something like that....Would be lot less hassle for him who is 67 with a bumm shoulder. Pull start, reliability and all that....Would be worth the extra cost IMO.

I myself plan on staying with the China bastards lol. Eventually work up to a Morini....kick start and powerful it seems...reliable...

I aint done yet!

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

I also noticed there are two FLAT washers under each acorn nut. I think that is a clearance thing so the stud doesn't hit into the top of the acorn nut.

That is some cheap engineering, man, I'm going with steel nuts with lock washers. Screw the acorns

Mike B · May 19, 2011

Yeah, regular open nut, one lockwasher and 1 flat washer.

Try it, it could make the motor run -

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

Mike B said:
Yeah, regular open nut, one lockwasher and 1 flat washer.

Try it, it could make the motor run -

Going out tomorrow to Hiawatha fasteners to get some top grade stuff. nice nut washer....engine quality, not the swing set nuts and bolts on it now lol.

I'm going to sand down the head a little too before bolting it down again.

Who knows..it may take off but I won't get as mad as before if it doesn't....This engine is officially a test pig that I am determined to find the problem in. I'm have another engine block on the way with a new NT carb.

rohmell · May 19, 2011

Eric2.0 said:
I also noticed there are two FLAT washers under each acorn nut. I think that is a clearance thing so the stud doesn't hit into the top of the acorn nut.

That is some cheap engineering, man, I'm going with steel nuts with lock washers. Screw the acorns

I Dremeled the dome off of my nuts. (That does not sound right).

I could feel resistance on one of the nuts and I was afraid that the stud was hitting the top of the dome, so off it came.

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

rohmell said:
I Dremeled the dome off of my nuts. (That does not sound right).

I could feel resistance on one of the nuts and I was afraid that the stud was hitting the top of the dome, so off it came.

Been reading about that problem in the cylinder/head forum. Most likely mine were bottomed out and due to no quality control, it never got tightened properly. Man, that is bad lol....

Now I understand guys who take a NEW engine and completely re-do the hardware and square things up before starting.

I bet that was the trouble all along...no throttle response, muffled "kinda start" and die.....I'm thinking major vacuum breach on the cylinder head.

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

Oy yes....they put two washers under each acorn....Must be they tried to fix the problem cheaply lol...I mean...Just use regular nuts mayby?

It's like what someone doing a quick fix in the woods would do lol

rohmell · May 19, 2011

It probably would have been cheaper to use regular nuts in the first place, instead of those 'fancy schmancy' domed nuts.

Eric2.0 · May 19, 2011

rohmell said:
It probably would have been cheaper to use regular nuts in the first place, instead of those 'fancy schmancy' domed nuts.

No doubt...................

mapbike · May 19, 2011

The nuts on all my engines worked ok, but I know for some they dont, but i will suggest that you put a flat washer and then a lock washer and then the nut, on each stud, the flat washer keep the lock washer or the nut from digging into the soft Alum. head and the lock washer on top of the flat will help lock the nut in place once it is tightened up, that isnt junky cheap engineering at all that is the way it should be done.

Yes work the head down a bit on sand paper taped down good on a piece of plate glass and then reinstall the head and see what you get, you may have had a major compression leak the whole time causing you problems.

Peace

rohmell · May 20, 2011

Eric, also make sure that your intake manifold is Ok.
I think you mentioned that you used RTV to seal up the kerfs in the carb,
Here's one with a void in the weld:

Mike B · May 20, 2011

Your pin is not in your hole.

rohmell · May 21, 2011

Mike B said:
Your pin is not in your hole.

I saw that, but it's not my engine, and I dunno who has it.

I found the problem!

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