Is my magnet off?

droc089 · Aug 3, 2011

Hello all, just got a new DAX f80. Love this thing, seems smoother and faster than my GT5. But I think I have a timing issue, it backfires and is hard to start. If my magnet is off, how do I remove the nut without pulling this whole thing apart. I'm gonna email Duane with this too. Thanks

In the picture my piston is up at the top.

Al.Fisherman · Aug 3, 2011

droc089 said:
Hello all, just got a new DAX f80. Love this thing, seems smoother and faster than my GT5. But I think I have a timing issue, it backfires and is hard to start. If my magnet is off, how do I remove the nut without pulling this whole thing apart. I'm gonna email Duane with this too. Thanks

In the picture my piston is up at the top.

If your piston is at TDC..yes it is off (sheared woodfuff key). Check out these photos....
http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Magnetto/

As for R & R... look here...
Start at #30

Chinese HT breakdown pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket

droc089 · Aug 3, 2011

Thanks ron.

Is there anyway to get the nut off with out tearing it all apart? If not I'll probably just wait and see what duane says

Al.Fisherman · Aug 3, 2011

droc089 said:
Thanks ron.

Is there anyway to get the nut off with out tearing it all apart? If not I'll probably just wait and see what duane says

Remove the spark plug, insert about a foot or so of rope into the cylinder, leaving enough out that you can pull it out. The piston will jam when it contacts the rope. Remove after you install the magnet nut.

2door · Aug 3, 2011

If by some chance you have access to an impact wrench, the pneumatic or electric kind, the nut will spin right off without blocking the piston.
If you use Al's advice make very sure you don't leave any foreign material/rope threads in the cylinder.
Tom

droc089 · Aug 3, 2011

Thanks guys. I think I do know someone with one, but I would have to go there and use it. How about stopping the gears on the other side with some cloth, read this somewhere just don't know if it's a good idea. And once I got the magnet off how would you go about adjusting it.

Al.Fisherman · Aug 3, 2011

droc089 said:
Thanks guys. I think I do know someone with one, but I would have to go there and use it. How about stopping the gears on the other side with some cloth, read this somewhere just don't know if it's a good idea. And once I got the magnet off how would you go about adjust it.

Since you are not that mechanical inclined about these engines, I wouldn't recommend jamming the gears. The rope is the safest way. Used incorrectly a impact can and will ruin the threads when installing the nut. When you install the key, the magnet will go one two different ways. Go to the photo links...it's self explanatory. If you insist on jamming the gears use a soft material, heavy cloth, a piece of copper fitting, or crankshaft bearing, something like that.

droc089 · Aug 3, 2011

So in the pictures did you just flip the magnet around, that's what it looks like to me anyways. With the rope, would the extra strain just get burned up or would I have to remove the head and clean it?

killercanuck · Aug 3, 2011

Use a Nylon rope if you have it, more durable than say a hemp rope or lanyard. You only need enough to hold the piston and keep it from turning over TDC.

You might want to pull the magneto for reassembly, because the magnet likes to pull the key out when installing the rotor.

What I do is use a long twist-tie(or string) on the key to hold it in place(just hold with fingers, don't twist it). Makes it less frustrating getting the rotor back on.

You may get lucky and it was only put on backwards at the factory. But it looks pretty far off, for a new motor, eh?

Al.Fisherman · Aug 3, 2011

There is a front and back. If the engine was running with the magnet like it is then it was in fact installed correctly. If so place a mark on the face you look at and that way when you install the magnet will be facing the correct way. Yes removing the coil would make it easier.

[/QUOTE]You may get lucky and it was only put on backwards at the factory. But it looks pretty far off, for a new motor, eh?[/QUOTE]
That far off from the factory...no key could of been installed. Super glue the key in place before you install the magnet.

Key way at TDC

Correct instillation...

Incorrect instillation...

Looking at your magnet...the key is broken, or not installed...look at the rivet alignment.

droc089 · Aug 3, 2011

If it's just the key, I can get one from a junked motor. If it just needs to be placed that cool too.Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll post once I'm able to work on it, sucks I can't today during the day...80 degrees and cloudy.

rustycase · Aug 3, 2011

Tnx for posting those pics, Alf.
I'm sure they will save me a lot of grief on down the road!
Best
rc

droc089 · Aug 3, 2011

Well I think I figure out it's not the magnet. I was not truly at the top, if you have the engine on the bike you have to hold it to stay at the top. So moving to the next step. Could be the CDI?

Al.Fisherman · Aug 4, 2011

droc089 said:
Well I think I figure out it's not the magnet. I was not truly at the top, if you have the engine on the bike you have to hold it to stay at the top. So moving to the next step. Could be the CDI?

Cut the white wire, remove and trash it.

droc089 · Aug 4, 2011

Would it matter if it's not touching anything? even riding it doesn't touch anything.

Al.Fisherman · Aug 4, 2011

droc089 said:
Would it matter if it's not touching anything? even riding it doesn't touch anything.

The magnet comes close to the coil, but doesn't touch it.

droc089 · Aug 4, 2011

Where would you recommend cutting it off? At the end or right up next to the coil.

I think my CDI is completely dead now. I took my bike to work (4miles) and it run fine all the way there, including before. But when I went to go home I could not get it to start. Check the plug it was soaked, switched it out to my extra, it got soaked. Thinking maybe doing a DIY CDI or just get a new one. But I don't wanna just buy the same ol' cheapy one, and the only other one I know of is the jag.

rustycase · Aug 5, 2011

Can I ask which carby u got?
Both my stockers ran way rich and the cns had an enrichener circuit instead of a choke that was cable connected... I think it always leaked fuel into the mix.
Maybe u should try leaning that thing out before condemning the CDI/coil ??
Solder up the main jet and re-drill to a #73 size, set the slide needle to 2nd from top... see how it performs.
Good luck
rc

droc089 · Aug 5, 2011

I have a rt carb from Dax. I don't think it it's the issue I could go down to 70 i guess but 75 work fine earlier.

rustycase · Aug 5, 2011

Using a #75 and going to a #70 would make it even richer...
My cns is #71 and I been advised to go #73. SO I'm going to drill it #74 and open it to #73 if it's too lean at #74.

I think my nt was the same #71. I'll check tomorrow when I tear the bike down.
Both carbs run fat.
It would probably lean the motor out if I messed with the pipe, but I don't want it to be louder, even though I'd get more power.

Since I'm such an opinionated fellow... if you really think it's the cdi/coil, I'd buy another one because they're so darn cheep! THEN build one yourself that will be superior to the stocker. Spares are always a good thing to have on hand for tiny engines... especially for these hi - performance thangs! lol
(Actually, they are... we tend to expect a lot from them.)

Good luck
rc

Is my magnet off?

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