The cable on my Whizzer is broken, actually completely missing
Is there anything special about a Whizzer cable, if so where can i get one
Is there anything special about a Whizzer cable, if so where can i get one
Clutch cable
- Thread starter joabthebugman
- Start date
Is your bike a 2007? Most 2007 [99%] were automatic clutch systems and didn't use a cable. The left handle was used to activate the rear brake. If yours is a manual clutch then the rear wheel has a coaster brake.
Have fun,
Have fun,
It is supposed to be a 2007 but it does have a coaster brake
What is the easiest way to verify date of manufacture
What is the easiest way to verify date of manufacture
Whizzer used several different versions of the carburetor. The parts aren't interchangeable. If you have a digital camera it might be wise to post pictures of your Whizzer.
Some of the carburetor tops can be modified or repaired, depending on which version you have. What letters & numbers are on the side of the carburetor?
Have fun,
Some of the carburetor tops can be modified or repaired, depending on which version you have. What letters & numbers are on the side of the carburetor?
Have fun,
The only letter I see on it are
KIE HAN
The ring is broken in three pieces maybe I can find a replacement
KIE HAN
The ring is broken in three pieces maybe I can find a replacement
Are you refering to the large round nut that holds the top of the carburetor [where cable enters] to the main housing? A new Whizzer carburetor is approx $140.00.
I have the top nut if needed [$15.00 including shipping].
Have fun,
I have the top nut if needed [$15.00 including shipping].
Have fun,
Here's a Whizzer carb for sale on Ebay:
Whizzer Carburetor Used 22mm Keihin Kiehan: eBay Motors (item 290494403769 end time Nov-06-10 15:43:25 PDT)
Whizzer Carburetor Used 22mm Keihin Kiehan: eBay Motors (item 290494403769 end time Nov-06-10 15:43:25 PDT)
If you need a carb, you are welcome to my stock take off for $25 + shipping. Will include the stock chrome airfilter also.
I have the majority of a manual clutch and from what I can see it is a smaller cable than the normal m/c cable. I think an easy fix is to order the stock rear brake cable from Whizzer, it should be plenty long enough and cut to fit. I have the remains of a master cable making kit that probably has the solder on barrel you need for the clutch end. Let me know-Ben.
Isn't there some sort of fitting that goes into the clutch lever?
Something similar to the fitting at the grip end of the throttle control
Something similar to the fitting at the grip end of the throttle control
If you get the brake cable it has the end that fits the lever already. The end that is soldered is on the clutch end, I found several different ends in my kit that should work.
I think our terminology is confusing us here. This is the fitting that goes into the clutch lever as you call it. It should be all that is needed to convert a rear brake cable(+ soldering of course). This fits perfectly into the "tunnel" where the cable goes on the arm that the clutch is mounted to. Its just a matter to cut the cable and sheath to the right length and solder the brass terminal in place. A 1/2 hour max. I also have a terminal for the sheath if needed. I would need to chuck this in my lathe and center drill it as the current hole is oriented the wrong way. The holes on the side will work for you allowing solder into the barrel from both directions. Let me know.--Ben.
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Part of the problem is that the picture is turned wrong, I just noticed that
Now it's right
for some reason you have to click on the thumbnail for it to orient correctly
Let me explain the workings as I understand it and you tell me where I'm wrong
That beefy rusty piece is the clutch activator lever
The hole in the top is where that ferrule sits
The bracket down below is what the cable is clamped into
There is a smaller hole in the bottom of the lever that i thought some sort of fitting ,similar to the fitting at the throttle control, fit into
If not then perfect I am making more of it than there needs to be.
Are you saying that a simple standard cable terminal end goes there?
Just top make things simple
You can get together what you think I need for the cable and we can go the pay pal route again
I would love to get this thing going by thanksgiving
I just found out that my grandfather found one of these trashed out and rebuilt it for my uncle ,who will be visiting over the holiday, and gave it to him on thanksgiving day about 60 years ago.
Mom said it looked just like this thing I have, but I have a strong suspicion it was a Simplex
Now it's right
for some reason you have to click on the thumbnail for it to orient correctly
Let me explain the workings as I understand it and you tell me where I'm wrong
That beefy rusty piece is the clutch activator lever
The hole in the top is where that ferrule sits
The bracket down below is what the cable is clamped into
There is a smaller hole in the bottom of the lever that i thought some sort of fitting ,similar to the fitting at the throttle control, fit into
If not then perfect I am making more of it than there needs to be.
Are you saying that a simple standard cable terminal end goes there?
Just top make things simple
You can get together what you think I need for the cable and we can go the pay pal route again
I would love to get this thing going by thanksgiving
I just found out that my grandfather found one of these trashed out and rebuilt it for my uncle ,who will be visiting over the holiday, and gave it to him on thanksgiving day about 60 years ago.
Mom said it looked just like this thing I have, but I have a strong suspicion it was a Simplex
Look at the clutch activator lever as you call it. It has a hole and a slot. The brass part I have pictured is soldered on to the cable. The cable is then slipped into the slot and the brass part bottoms in the tunnel(hole) on the lever. You the slide the cable clamp down to adjust the clutch by clamping the cable. The brass terminal does not sit on top of the lever but inside.
