my bike runs fine at half throttle but when i try to go ful it bogs down and revs up and down any ideas?
bogging down
- Thread starter Shaggz
- Start date
im getting too much gas now for some reason..
i cut the gas feed off half way and it runs great and honestly i probably got more that 25 miles on it i rode it for about 3 hours yesterday
Inside of your carburetor. Look up on youtube how to take an NT carb apart if you are lost.
But back to your engine, you said that you had maybe 25 miles on the motor or the carb? If its the carb never mind, but break your motor in slowly. Seriously, if you rush breaking it in (about two gas tanks of usage) you'll regret it. Just cruise around for now, don't push it past half throttle for a while or ride for more than 30 mins at a time.
But back to your engine, you said that you had maybe 25 miles on the motor or the carb? If its the carb never mind, but break your motor in slowly. Seriously, if you rush breaking it in (about two gas tanks of usage) you'll regret it. Just cruise around for now, don't push it past half throttle for a while or ride for more than 30 mins at a time.
There will be a lot of opposing views on this. Many of us do not adhere to the 'take it easy' approach to break-in.
Here's the way I look at it: Ask any tree trimmer or professional lawn maintenance guy if he cuts branches or edges laws at half throttle with a new 2 stroke tool. He'll probably laugh at you.
Don't baby the engine. Run it like you plan to ride it, right from the start. Few ride at WOT,(wide open throttle) 100% of the time. You shouldn't either but running at half throttle isn't going to do the engine any favors.
200 to 300 miles is about right for break-in, and use the oil mix ratio you plan to run from day one. DO NOT run 16:1. You'll be back asking why your spark plug is fouled and your exhaust system is clogged. 24:1 or better yet 32:1 is good. Some go as far as 40:1 with no reported problems.
Tom
Update so after i figured out how i was getting to much gas i finally got it to high rev lo and behold the rear mount bolt broke off in the case..... so im going to tap it out and i go to town to find replacement thread all i can find is some long bolts XD crap so i bought a bunch of stainless steel bolts and now i get to spend tomorrow cutting off bolt heads with a dremel LKJAFSJHOIDVJOPIENACJAWIU!!!!!!!!!! >XDDDDDDDD
I'm a old outboard mechanic and have sold a lot of small motors. You kind of just take it easy for the first 8 hrs. After that all motors should be able to run at 80% of full throttle for hrs. And if your motor is geared or propped correctly it should be able to go to a certain WOT rpm .not being able to do that causes more problems than anything else. A tach is cheap and all small motors benefit from being run at the proper loading and rpm.
Shaggz,
There really is no need to use studs, or to cut bolt heads off. Replace the suds and nuts will Allen head cap screws. You'll have to determine the proper lenght for the application but I think you'll like the look and simplicity of a single set of threads as opposed to two.
One of the arguments against cap screws is that when you do a lot of assembly and disassembly you put more wear on the threads. That shouldn't be a factor for most builders/riders. I mean really, how many times do people actually take things apart and put them back together after the bike is running properly? Not many would be my guess.
There are those who are constantly tinkering and feel safer with studs. So be it.
Nevertheless I like the Allen head capscrews and replace all the suds, except the ones at the head and cylinder, with them. They are also easier to find than metric threaded rod to make studs.
Tom
after several weeks of no bike i finally finished my repairs locktited EVERYTHING now i am going to wait 24 hours and go riding on the new and improved Speedster 2.0 (no fenders)XD
