Presidents day, parts are stuck at the post office, but I plan to ride the Harley today in celebration of not waiting on government to do anything for us except act like Beavers getting in the stream of life and working like crazy to dam the flow of progress! Fuel, oil and spark today and add front brake tomorrow. Seventies, no wind and sunshine today after a nice rain yesterday evening...just about perfect I'd say. I'm. A bit excited by the prospect. Rick C.
Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike
- Thread starter indian22
- Start date
I posted yesterday that I was excited about the prospect of my first ride on the Harley Peashooter and I still am, though I've not yet taken it. The kick start lever decided to lock in the upright (return) position after the initial start stroke. The engine, clutch and transmission are "free" to rotate so I'll pull the side plate today and check the starter gear and spring assembly. I ordered a gasket for reassembly if I can fix without ordering parts. I can't say I've ever encountered a starter lockup on a new bike engine, but it's a common problem on older kick start dependant designs after some use and wear. It will be interesting to find out what part suddenly decided to go South...really nice day for it though. RickC.
Sorry to hear that you didn't get your ride in today Rick. Hope the problem isn't a large one and can be remedied easily. I sure remember the old kick starters jamming and having to push start them.
Steve.
Steve.
Maybe Faux a starter motor to not show and keep the kick starter for looks. I'm really joking. I did look at the bike the engine came from and wiki says that 2001 they introduced electric start and by 2004 they eliminated the kick start and only used electric.
Thanks for the condolences guys. I finally got back to the "stuck" kick starter, which isn't. After backing off all clutch adjustment, pulling the plug and engaging fifth gear; I found the engine locked. My bad for not doing the above before, but...
I don't have a clue as to what occurred after running on the bench a few weeks ago, but I'm certain that I rotated the engine with the kick lever when I remounted the engine in frame to check clearance with pedals. Why is an appropriate question at this point? Moisture or heat are typical reasons but don't seem to quite fit the chain of events. Mechanical failure? My wishful thinking is stuck rings, quite common and I started there.
I filled the combustion chamber with a blend of diesel and marvel mystery oil last evening and will attempt to free her up in frame first, as I've successfully used that combination of penetrant and oils, along with rocking the bike while in top cog at frequent intervals to break loose cycle engines in the past. It takes more time than brute force on the crank, but much easier on the internals in my opinion, which might be worth little consideration at this point, given my recent track record.
Anyway egg on my face even before breakfast, but it will all sort out with persistence though it's a puzzle, yet I'm still having fun while waiting to see what comes next. Rick C.
I don't have a clue as to what occurred after running on the bench a few weeks ago, but I'm certain that I rotated the engine with the kick lever when I remounted the engine in frame to check clearance with pedals. Why is an appropriate question at this point? Moisture or heat are typical reasons but don't seem to quite fit the chain of events. Mechanical failure? My wishful thinking is stuck rings, quite common and I started there.
I filled the combustion chamber with a blend of diesel and marvel mystery oil last evening and will attempt to free her up in frame first, as I've successfully used that combination of penetrant and oils, along with rocking the bike while in top cog at frequent intervals to break loose cycle engines in the past. It takes more time than brute force on the crank, but much easier on the internals in my opinion, which might be worth little consideration at this point, given my recent track record.
Anyway egg on my face even before breakfast, but it will all sort out with persistence though it's a puzzle, yet I'm still having fun while waiting to see what comes next. Rick C.
Hi Ludwig, I remember you posting that letting the valves settle a bit was a good idea before gear changes because of the heads popping off & subsequently learned others encouraged the same. However I just returned to the keyboard to report that the diesel/Mystery oil worked it's magic (that's the marvel) & the internals rotated after just a dozen or so rocking the bike backward and forward bumps in fifth gear. Now the kick lever responds normally, so all smiles at progress.
I'm not sure the gas used was alcohol free so perhaps condensation formed in the gas can & along with our alternating hot and cold days over the past couple of months; even with that I'm skeptical the rings would meld to the cylinder walls that quickly. It's only been perhaps three weeks since the motor was last fired up when it run less than 5 minutes. May never know.
I'll next power flush the engine with diesel fuel then completely drain and refill with fresh mineral oil and retry a startup only running long enough to warm up the motor and then again drain, check and clean the two filters and repeat till I'm satisfied any residual rust is out of the system. Sounds a bother but worth it to save a motor.
This is the quickest and easiest engine I've freed from seizure, most took several days to break free and those had significant amounts of crud come out...all also contained a lot of water as evidenced by the milky mix of oil drained prior to filling with the Marvel/diesel mix. All subsequently ran well, their age and condition being taken into account, with no additional attention to internals...cleanup and setup only, so I'm hopeful for good results with the CG 125, but if necessary I'll take her down to nuts, bolts & bits to complete.
Beautiful day forecast so I'll get some work in for sure.
Rick C.
I'm not sure the gas used was alcohol free so perhaps condensation formed in the gas can & along with our alternating hot and cold days over the past couple of months; even with that I'm skeptical the rings would meld to the cylinder walls that quickly. It's only been perhaps three weeks since the motor was last fired up when it run less than 5 minutes. May never know.
I'll next power flush the engine with diesel fuel then completely drain and refill with fresh mineral oil and retry a startup only running long enough to warm up the motor and then again drain, check and clean the two filters and repeat till I'm satisfied any residual rust is out of the system. Sounds a bother but worth it to save a motor.
This is the quickest and easiest engine I've freed from seizure, most took several days to break free and those had significant amounts of crud come out...all also contained a lot of water as evidenced by the milky mix of oil drained prior to filling with the Marvel/diesel mix. All subsequently ran well, their age and condition being taken into account, with no additional attention to internals...cleanup and setup only, so I'm hopeful for good results with the CG 125, but if necessary I'll take her down to nuts, bolts & bits to complete.
Beautiful day forecast so I'll get some work in for sure.
Rick C.
It may well have been the alcohol in the gas that promoted the rust. My brother has had a lawn mower and a small brush chipper lose their carbs to alcohol gas eating holes in them and the gas line because he didn't add gas preservative to the gas tank and run them for a while when he stored them for the winter.
I see arguments about Marvel Mystery Oil being any good. My 1984 Dodge camper runs rough as a corn cob on the gasohol they sell here especially when it's warming up. We could buy Marvel Mystery Oil in Canada up until a few years ago when the government found out they could hold companies up for large amounts of money for approval.
New Government and it's available again. I put it in the campers gas tank with a fresh tank of untreated gas and with the engine running on fast idle as it warms up and I can hear the exhaust smooth out and watch the tail pipe stop shaking. It must effect the alcohol so that it burns like gasoline.
Camper starts faster, runs smoother and has more power with the Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm a believer in it.
Steve.
I see arguments about Marvel Mystery Oil being any good. My 1984 Dodge camper runs rough as a corn cob on the gasohol they sell here especially when it's warming up. We could buy Marvel Mystery Oil in Canada up until a few years ago when the government found out they could hold companies up for large amounts of money for approval.
New Government and it's available again. I put it in the campers gas tank with a fresh tank of untreated gas and with the engine running on fast idle as it warms up and I can hear the exhaust smooth out and watch the tail pipe stop shaking. It must effect the alcohol so that it burns like gasoline.
Camper starts faster, runs smoother and has more power with the Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm a believer in it.
Steve.
Pretty common Ludwig, like Steve posted and it really stores poorly Stabil additive will prolong its shelf life at added cost. I normally buy hi test here as it isn't blended, but just picked up a can at the shop and took home with me, in a hurry and it didn't smell sour so I used it. Bad decision it seems.
Started the Peashooter and ran it for maybe 30 seconds and it died. No gas to the carb. Pulled the lines and filter, petcock flowed strong and closed properly, took the vented cap off, installed another new filter and still had good flow to the carb...but attached to the Mikuni and gas flow stops and I mean not a drop enters into the gas line or filter. So I'll tackle the carb tomorrow. Still no ride but didn't have to push it home either, it's just being a bit cranky. I however am still smiling.
Steve I have used the Marvel Mystery. Oil in every motor I've ever owned, going back to 1962. Use it in both the gas and crankcase, especially during breakin period. On wet clutch applications I use very little in the bottom end but run in the gas every other tank. Cars and trucks full treatment every oil change full strength in the gas every other tank. Smells good too, not quite as aromatic as Hoppes gun bore cleaner but a close second. Rick C.
Thanks for posting your trials and tribulations Rick. Finding, fixing and then posting about your results is such a big deal for anyone looking for solutions to similar problems. It's a bummer no doubt but you're making the most of it and adding a lot of value to the forum. Much appreciated!
I lived in North Conway N.H. for years Rick and they had a scenic railway based at the old train station. When I was in the local Napa store one of the employees of the train came in to pick up two 5 gallon cans of of Marvel Mystery Oil. Of course the first question was does it work?
They had a steam locomotive and two diesel electric locomotives. He said that they did a test using transmission oil in one and Marvel Mystery Oil in the other when the engines were rebuilt. These were added to the engine crank case oil. When they rebuilt them some years later the engine with the added transmission oil still had some visible cross hatching from the honing from the last rebuild.
The engine treated with the Marvel Mystery Oil still had the cross hatching that looked like the engine had just been rebuilt and had no evident wear on it. After that they just used Marvel Mystery Oil every time they changed the oil.
Both engines had the same hours on their engines at rebuild time.
Steve.
They had a steam locomotive and two diesel electric locomotives. He said that they did a test using transmission oil in one and Marvel Mystery Oil in the other when the engines were rebuilt. These were added to the engine crank case oil. When they rebuilt them some years later the engine with the added transmission oil still had some visible cross hatching from the honing from the last rebuild.
The engine treated with the Marvel Mystery Oil still had the cross hatching that looked like the engine had just been rebuilt and had no evident wear on it. After that they just used Marvel Mystery Oil every time they changed the oil.
Both engines had the same hours on their engines at rebuild time.
Steve.
Harold one of the results of failure is disappointment which can be very discouraging, but the result that matters is discovering that you can through perseverance find viable solutions leading to success. No one knows it all but each of us knows something which can be of use to others when shared. At times encouragement is the best we've got, yet other times insight. I think it important to share in an appropriate manner and at the correct moment...not as know it alls but as friends.
Steve that story is a great testimonial to the Mystery oil. I am always skeptical about some of the claims offered by various manufacturers and vendors products from heathcare items to car care products, but I've become a believer in the basic claims of this stuff and know it to be much better than snake oil and that's a fact. Rick C.
Steve that story is a great testimonial to the Mystery oil. I am always skeptical about some of the claims offered by various manufacturers and vendors products from heathcare items to car care products, but I've become a believer in the basic claims of this stuff and know it to be much better than snake oil and that's a fact. Rick C.
Pretty long day for the Old guy, yet some progress. Soaked the Mikuni carb in Mystery oil and kerosine for a few hours and the motor now starts and runs. Put about 45 minutes on it broken up in 3 sessions of 15 minutes each. The only adjustment made today was idle speed. I've got some backfire on the exhaust side, not at idle but but on quick throttle blips. I'll get into that tomorrow. Both front and rear brakes are good to go and clutch feels about right. Had the bugger of a time getting the throttle to function smoothly. I also put some different bushings in the forks. Odds and ends left of course and the backfire which is definitely something that didn't occur on previous running.
Rick C.:
Rick C.:
I'll be sorting the exhaust backfire problem today and replacing a couple of engine mount bolts with graded fasteners cut to length and capped.
I'll also switch the throttle to the left hand position, next to the front brake lever. Clutch lever will remain on the right side. I've been putting this off while deciding to make the hand lever shift permanent and I have. I really like the look of the shifter now and don't believe the throttle position change will be too bothersome. Relaxed shifting (read that as slow) will now be the norm with the hand operated change lever.
I'm still hoping for a ride on the Harley "Keystone" Pea Knuckle sooner than later, but plenty of things are still left to complete on this bike. The Simplex Coppergator was much the same during the last stage of its original build and it still has the sidecar project ahead and I'm excited about the addition of an easily detachable car to that little bike as well. Rick C.
I'll also switch the throttle to the left hand position, next to the front brake lever. Clutch lever will remain on the right side. I've been putting this off while deciding to make the hand lever shift permanent and I have. I really like the look of the shifter now and don't believe the throttle position change will be too bothersome. Relaxed shifting (read that as slow) will now be the norm with the hand operated change lever.
I'm still hoping for a ride on the Harley "Keystone" Pea Knuckle sooner than later, but plenty of things are still left to complete on this bike. The Simplex Coppergator was much the same during the last stage of its original build and it still has the sidecar project ahead and I'm excited about the addition of an easily detachable car to that little bike as well. Rick C.
