Milled my acorns, and feeling bad for young people.

GoldenMotor.com

rohmell

Active Member
Jun 2, 2010
1,531
6
38
New York
Hi to all on the forum.
SO, my engine is running but I cannot take it off of full choke, and when I give it some throttle, it stumbles and dies. To me this means a lean condition. All carb adjustments are default settings, so what is going on?

I unscrew the acorn nuts holding the intake manifold to the cylinder. One comes out easy, the other one is jammed so tight on the stud that it unscrews the stud out of the cylinder. Mind you, the manifold was already installed when I got the kit, so this 'workmanship' is from the factory.

The stud that remained in the cylinder has a hex hole in its end, the stud that came out also had a hex hole in its end, so I am thinking that there are hex holes on both ends of the studs. (I could not see the end that was jammed into the nut at this point).

I looked at the gasket that was between the manifold and cylinder and could see the seepage between the intake and the outside world. Clearly, this was indeed the problem.

I had to stick the stud in a vise to be able to get that nut off, but now the stud is a little messed up from the vise jaws. Now I see that there is no hex hole on this end of the stud, so it seems that the studs have the hex hole on one side only.

Luckily, I have a tap and die set, so I was able to nicely re-thread the stud, using an allen key in the hex hole to hold the stud so I could re-thread the entire length of the stud. I also ran the die down the other stud that remained in the cylinder (I tried to remove it, but it was tight, and I didn't want to risk snapping it). I replaced the stud into the engine with the hex hole facing out.

I was curious as to how far the studs go into the acorn nut's dome , so I milled off the dome and re-tapped the nuts.

The nut from the side that unscrewed easily and has the hex hole showing ended up stopping just a tiny bit below where the flat side inside of the dome would have been. The other side, where the stud was in backwards, and the nut was jammed onto it, the stud protruded out ABOVE where the flat of the dome would have been.

Clearly, when the engine was assembled:
1) one stud was installed backwards, and maybe not fully homed into the engine.
2) The inside of the acorn nut's dome was hitting the stud and jamming it, and was keeping it from bearing down on that side of the intake manifold flange to make a good seal against the cylinder.

I should have measured the protrusions of both studs, while in the cylinder, but forgot, maybe some other time.
Now, the engine is running good, I can take the choke off, and it seems to be OK.

I kinda feel bad :(
for a young person, who maybe gets an engine kit as a gift, or scrapes up the loot for one thru a job, or newspaper route or whatever, and maybe have to go through these kinds of problems with out a tap & die set, torch(I had to bend my crank to clear the pull-starter), vise, soldering iron, etc., and don't have anyone to turn to for help with the physical construction/modification/repair. Some people do not have the benefit of a garage and have to do these things outside when the weather is cooperating, and have no place to set up a workbench.:(
 

Mac

New Member
Dec 3, 2009
486
1
0
Maine
rohmell,
Yup, I agree. That's one of the reasons I offer advice(from my experience) to the folks that really don't have a clue. One can't get experience without having the experience, so to speak. So, even though I read a post that says "What's a carb.?", Instead of saying if you don't know that, you shouldn't be riding one of these... I give some advice to get 'em rolling, sometimes with a little fun(it's just me!!) riding and teaching is what we're all about.
Looks like your on the right track. Keep up the good judgement, what the "little voice" says, is usually right. (I call him "Murphy")
Talk to you later.

Mac
 

rohmell

Active Member
Jun 2, 2010
1,531
6
38
New York
Hi Bikeguy Joe,
Yes I agree that a Chinese engine kit, plus this forum, is like a crash course in small engine repair/maintenance.
I have not ridden by MB yet, I am having a lot of fun just enjoying the mechanical aspects of the kit and its parts.
I can't wait until they start importing those Chinese cars like the Chery, CEO, Noble, etc.
I would buy a couple of those to play with, too!
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Rohmell,
Just a little advice for 'next time'. Eliminate the studs and nuts and replace them with Allen head cap screws. I think you'll find that a 6 mm X 20mm will take care of your intake attachment problem. On the other side is the same situation. The exhaust flange also comes with studs and nuts. replace them with 6mmX 25 or 30mm cap screws depending on gasket and flange thickness. I like to use flat and lock washers under the cap screw heads. Properly installed there is no need for thread locking products. Tighten initially until the lock washer is flat then check and lightly snug them after the engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times. Good luck.
Tom
 

rohmell

Active Member
Jun 2, 2010
1,531
6
38
New York
Hi 2door,
Thanks for your advice. Your ideas are good.
Part of the fun that I am having with this kit is fixing the Chinese assemblers' eff ups.
They could probably sell the kits for even less if they saved labor costs by not even bothering to install the studs, and leaving them loose in the bag with the rest of the parts, except for maybe the cylinder head portion of the kit.
Then it would be easy for the builder to choose if they wanted to use their supplied studs, or something else.