re clocking the clutch arm
- Thread starter TNault
- Start date
The clutch actuator arm is attached to another rod with a flat spot on it. This rod with the flat spot on it is inside the left side engine cover. When twisted by the clutch arm it pushes the another rod that is adjacent to a ball bearing inside the motor casing. You have to separate these two pieces then reassemble them clocked different to get more clearance from hitting stuff like your carb casing.
The clutch arm is also attached to your hand brake cable at your handle bars. It is splined to your rod that has the flat spot on it. These two pieces can be reassembled to line up different ways hence forth re-clocking. These pict show splines. Drive shaft spline lube pictures from trucks photos on webshots
the clutch arm should prolly be marked with a pen or tiny scratch to have reference to where you previously had it.
I like to remove the acorn nut and with the cover attached to the engine find pry tools and ''''gently patiently''''' work the arm off. This is a pita because you may create scratches and pry marks at your left clutch cover. You may want to mask the area with duct tape to lessening any marring scratching of the area.
Another way prolly safer and really more suggested? Take the clutch arm and the rod that resides in the clutch cover out of the cover . This has to be done with the clutch cover detached from the engine because the rod shaft to ball bearing in the engine casing prevents removing the rod with the clutch arm attached. [[[the rod in the clutch cover because of the flat spot locks onto the rod /ball bearing combo that resides in the engine casing to keep it assembled during normal operation.]]]
Once you have these two pieces out loosen the acorn nut don't take it all the way off. As this procedure can permanently damage threads and you will no longer be able to thread the acorn nut back on. Find a table vise deep socket etc to support the clutch arm.. Then take a hammer to the top of the acorn nut this will separate the two pieces for easy re-clocking.
The clutch arm is also attached to your hand brake cable at your handle bars. It is splined to your rod that has the flat spot on it. These two pieces can be reassembled to line up different ways hence forth re-clocking. These pict show splines. Drive shaft spline lube pictures from trucks photos on webshots
the clutch arm should prolly be marked with a pen or tiny scratch to have reference to where you previously had it.
I like to remove the acorn nut and with the cover attached to the engine find pry tools and ''''gently patiently''''' work the arm off. This is a pita because you may create scratches and pry marks at your left clutch cover. You may want to mask the area with duct tape to lessening any marring scratching of the area.
Another way prolly safer and really more suggested? Take the clutch arm and the rod that resides in the clutch cover out of the cover . This has to be done with the clutch cover detached from the engine because the rod shaft to ball bearing in the engine casing prevents removing the rod with the clutch arm attached. [[[the rod in the clutch cover because of the flat spot locks onto the rod /ball bearing combo that resides in the engine casing to keep it assembled during normal operation.]]]
Once you have these two pieces out loosen the acorn nut don't take it all the way off. As this procedure can permanently damage threads and you will no longer be able to thread the acorn nut back on. Find a table vise deep socket etc to support the clutch arm.. Then take a hammer to the top of the acorn nut this will separate the two pieces for easy re-clocking.
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