Hello has any body put a 80cc in this bike? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schwinn-Point-Beach-26-Men-s-Cruiser-Bike-Red-and-White/34931891
has any body
- Thread starter giddyuperic
- Start date
Use the google custom search near the top of the page. Type in schwinn point beach and you will find some threads on it.
Definitely. Plenty of people have done it.
But those wheels have always looked a bit flimsy to me. If you go with a Wal-Mart bike, then why don't you give some of their Huffys a look? Wheels are a bit more stout.
For that matter, as suggested above, go ahead and search "Cranbrook" and "Panama Jack" as well as "Point Beach". You'll get lots of info.
Good luck and have fun.
But those wheels have always looked a bit flimsy to me. If you go with a Wal-Mart bike, then why don't you give some of their Huffys a look? Wheels are a bit more stout.
For that matter, as suggested above, go ahead and search "Cranbrook" and "Panama Jack" as well as "Point Beach". You'll get lots of info.
Good luck and have fun.
I went with the point Beach by Schwinn. And it is a 60cc bored out to be a 80cc and has my mommy always said if you don't have any nice to say the don't say any thing at all. That is to the KIOSHK. I looked at all of the name's you said and I just thought this would be nicer and the name still means something to me even though they are made in china. But what is not these days. I did have to order some different mount from cranberry and they were very helpful. Got the rag washers and sprocket on . Is there any guys or gals that ride around so ca Riverside the I E part of so cal? Thanks for the help from some of you.
Nice job on the overbore. Which 52mm piston did you use?
What did you do about the transfer ports?
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What did you do about the transfer ports?
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who'd you find to do the machine work? 66cc's to 80 is a big deal. Lots O cutting.....It came that way what all you have to is run a bigger piston for the bigger head. They sell it has 80cc.
I am sorry if I came across as mean. But I did get some smart @$$ reply's anyway yes you are right I have got mostly good people and lot's of help. Thanks
pee wee great adventure....such a great movie about a man and his machine(bike).....and how they become one...both the bike and pee wee.he goes thru great trouble getting his bike recovered from theifs...This guy:
P.S.: no such thing as an 80cc.
Why not? You can bore out any thing and put a bigger piston. And why do they list them as a 80cc motor?? And are you mocking me by putting up that pee wee photo every time you reply to some thing I have said or ask? I am a 12 year disabled ARMY vet and not a pro mechanic but I do know my way around a two stroke engine. I fly giant scale RC air planes the biggest runs a 200cc engine now are you going to tell me that there is no such thing. I also have a 10cc,20cc,30cc,35cc,55cc,and then my 200cc. Not starting any thing and please don't take it that way. So Mr. engine manufacture tell me why there is no 80cc engine please do tell me so I will know better to say it is a 80cc engine. Even every thing on it says it is a 80cc and the guy who works on it says it is. Please explain
I'll try to explain it... They all say 80cc but that's becasue the way they measure the displacement isn't the same way we measure by bore and stroke alone, when we measure by bore and stroke, the engines are really 66cc if they got the 38mm crank stroke or they're 69.8 or so cc so you'll see people calling these engines 69 or 70cc, but still most of us just call it a 66 because it's less confusing.
Now if you throw in the 13 or so cc's of the combustion chamber into the mix then it'll come up to 80cc, but this isn't the true displacement since the combustion chamber volume doesn't truly effect the ture displacement which is just bore and stroke. There is also another displacement that almost nobody uses called the effective displacement, this is measured from the top of the exhaust port to the top dead center multiplied by the bore, this number is about a third of the true displacement so nobody uses this as a method to advertise their engines.
Pretty much the only way to get a true 80cc's from these engines would be to stroke the crank as much as one could get away with and bore it out as far as they could get away with, then the bore needs to be re plated with nikasil or it wouldn't last very long at all.
You can put a 66/80cc piston and top end on the 60cc and probably even the 49cc to get more displacement, but to get a true 80cc from these engines, you'd either need to go up to about 45mm stroke or a 52mm bore with the 40mm stroke, that's why technically, there's no 80cc and none of the big bore kits will make one of these a true 80cc, there's just not enough room for a bore size larger than 47mm that'll fit on these bottom ends.
There's not really enough room to bore out these jugs more than maybe 1mm but the other problem is they would need to be re plated and then finding the right piston that has the same distance from the pin to the crown, and from the pin to the bottom of the skirt etc.. yeah, it can be done, but not cheaply so not worth boring out. Putting a jug from a different engine is a lot more practical, but can also get real expensive real fast.
Now if you throw in the 13 or so cc's of the combustion chamber into the mix then it'll come up to 80cc, but this isn't the true displacement since the combustion chamber volume doesn't truly effect the ture displacement which is just bore and stroke. There is also another displacement that almost nobody uses called the effective displacement, this is measured from the top of the exhaust port to the top dead center multiplied by the bore, this number is about a third of the true displacement so nobody uses this as a method to advertise their engines.
Pretty much the only way to get a true 80cc's from these engines would be to stroke the crank as much as one could get away with and bore it out as far as they could get away with, then the bore needs to be re plated with nikasil or it wouldn't last very long at all.
You can put a 66/80cc piston and top end on the 60cc and probably even the 49cc to get more displacement, but to get a true 80cc from these engines, you'd either need to go up to about 45mm stroke or a 52mm bore with the 40mm stroke, that's why technically, there's no 80cc and none of the big bore kits will make one of these a true 80cc, there's just not enough room for a bore size larger than 47mm that'll fit on these bottom ends.
There's not really enough room to bore out these jugs more than maybe 1mm but the other problem is they would need to be re plated and then finding the right piston that has the same distance from the pin to the crown, and from the pin to the bottom of the skirt etc.. yeah, it can be done, but not cheaply so not worth boring out. Putting a jug from a different engine is a lot more practical, but can also get real expensive real fast.
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giddyuperic- Welcome to the forum, and hello, my name is Trey. You and I share a considerable amount of time in-service. Allons!
I can assure you that KIOSHK was not yanking your chain. He has actually been helpful to me in the past, as well as to others here. From my experience, you'd be hard pressed to find anyone here who is not on your team. In fact, most of us are quite friendly. It's one of this sites' many strong points.
Please reference your post, (#941), in the 'Take a Tip... Leave a Tip' thread. That is the proper tone for discussion here.
I hope that I have been able to square this away for you. In the future, should you feel slighted, please consider what I've said here, and err on the side of caution.
You are welcome here brother, and I'm glad you've come. If there's any way I can help out in the future, just let me know. If I am unable to answer, I know a couple folks here who can.
Keep building, keep riding, and have fun!
I can assure you that KIOSHK was not yanking your chain. He has actually been helpful to me in the past, as well as to others here. From my experience, you'd be hard pressed to find anyone here who is not on your team. In fact, most of us are quite friendly. It's one of this sites' many strong points.
Please reference your post, (#941), in the 'Take a Tip... Leave a Tip' thread. That is the proper tone for discussion here.
I hope that I have been able to square this away for you. In the future, should you feel slighted, please consider what I've said here, and err on the side of caution.
You are welcome here brother, and I'm glad you've come. If there's any way I can help out in the future, just let me know. If I am unable to answer, I know a couple folks here who can.
Keep building, keep riding, and have fun!
I'll agree with Trey as well... KIOSHK is one of the more helpful members in here and I seriously doubt he was trying to yank your chain. this whole forum is friendly for the most part, and the trolls don't last long in here when they do show up because we back eachother up and the mods get rid of them quick.... Feel free to ask any question and enjoy the forum and the hobby.
Hello and my name is Eric by the way. I would like to thank you very much for explaining that to me. That's why I see them say 66-80cc engine. thanks YOU VERY MUCH SIR. NOW WHEN I sell it I can just say it is a 66cc engine yep . I am a disabled ARMY vet and was hoping this would help me to get some exercise but the the chain falls off and I need a good tensioner and the better hub for the rear hub. And the little thing that goes under the drive gear case to keep the chain from binding. She is brand new and not even a half of tank of fuel threw her. I had fun putting her together. Maybe you could tell me what a ready to go Schwinn point break beach cruiser with a 66cc engine in it would go for in so Cal? The chain has never came off the rag joint came a little loose and the it fell off. But I just tighten it and it rides great. I am on a way fix budget and it took 3 months to buy every thing for her and did the lay away at wally world for the bike. She is a beautiful motorbike but can you tell me please what you think I could get for her she is brand new? And thank you very much for the info on the engine. Eric
New and working you can get around $450 to $500 for it but it has to be working, the problem yours has is the rag joint or the chain tansioner is out of adjustment so it'll go for a little while then it throws off the chain. This problem is easy to fix but the adjustment can be tedious at first.
Check the rear sprocket by spinning the rear wheel with the chain off and look to see if its wobbling side to side, if it is, you can adjust this by loosening and tightening the rag joint bolts until the sprocket stays straight when spun. Once it runs straight you can go back and tighten the bolts down evenly test spinning it frequently to be sure it stays straight, if it's off by more than about 1/16" side to side wobble, it can throw the chain. The tensioner also needs to be centered so its not pulling the chain to one side or the other because it can also move the chain off center to the sprockets and cause it to throw off. The tensioner should be adjusted fairly tight so there's about 1/4" of play or less in the chain. It'll stretch some as you ride it so keeping an eye on this and readjusting it a few times may be needed before it holds an adjustment.
See if that helps
Check the rear sprocket by spinning the rear wheel with the chain off and look to see if its wobbling side to side, if it is, you can adjust this by loosening and tightening the rag joint bolts until the sprocket stays straight when spun. Once it runs straight you can go back and tighten the bolts down evenly test spinning it frequently to be sure it stays straight, if it's off by more than about 1/16" side to side wobble, it can throw the chain. The tensioner also needs to be centered so its not pulling the chain to one side or the other because it can also move the chain off center to the sprockets and cause it to throw off. The tensioner should be adjusted fairly tight so there's about 1/4" of play or less in the chain. It'll stretch some as you ride it so keeping an eye on this and readjusting it a few times may be needed before it holds an adjustment.
See if that helps
Dave has covered it pretty good, to adjust the tensioner you may have to bend or twist it slightly to get the chain to run true. The tensioner wheel can be thought of just like the handle bars of the bike, the way it is turned that's the way the chain will go.
