I removed the original thread. We discourage posting the same question multiple times in different areas of the forum.
Follow Maurtis's advice. The lapping will go quicker with a courser grade of paper; I start with 280 then work down to 400.
Here's a couple of hints:
Use a wide magic marker, or machinist dye to paint the gasket sealing surface before you start sanding. On the first couple of strokes you'll quickly see where the high and low spots are as the ink/dye is removed. Keep going until you have a flat, uniform surface. Same for the cylinder mating surface. If you didn't remove the cylinder from the lower case you'll need to pack it with an oil soaked rag to catch any sanding residue. You don't want that scratching up the cylinder walls and rings.
While working the head over the sandpaper keep rotating it in your hand so you don't sand an angle into it. Same for the cylinder.
By all means replace the chrome acorn nuts with hex nuts, preferably the kind with a wide flat shoulder. Use a torque wrench and tighten the head nuts down to about 130 to 150 inch pounds, alternating from side to side as you tighten. After the engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times check, don't tighten, them. Use that torque wrench, not brute force. Those are only 8mm steel studs into a cast aluminum case. If you don't get a turn with the wrech set at your original value do not try to get them to turn, even a little.
Following this advice you don't need gasket sealers or head gasket goop. The stock gasket, properly torqued and a flat sealing surface will work just find without bandaids.
Tom