build no.2 the wifes beach trike
- Thread starter thegnu
- Start date
That was the thread I was referring to actually. But not much information about wreck and stuff. Were the kids forks old and rusty? Were the bolts loose? How fast was he going etc etc etc...
Thats why I brought it up here since this guys trike has springers and he is obviously good at what he does. I thought I owuld mention it and see what he has to say being the expert he seems to be
Thanks Curt an Fug .
Yank... sometimes the obvious is way beyond my thinking , I havent figured out why that happens yet . lol
Fug to kinda answer your question , I am not worried at all about that springer , many guys here have them , For example AZBILL has the same bike an springer front, I feel its just a isolated incident but never the less still keep an eye on it for signs of a failure. I always give my first bike a once over before every ride for any blatant probs an about every 2nd week of riding I started checking it out thoroughly for proper tourqe ,tensions ,an alignments. just a safety thing .
Gary
Yank... sometimes the obvious is way beyond my thinking , I havent figured out why that happens yet . lol
Fug to kinda answer your question , I am not worried at all about that springer , many guys here have them , For example AZBILL has the same bike an springer front, I feel its just a isolated incident but never the less still keep an eye on it for signs of a failure. I always give my first bike a once over before every ride for any blatant probs an about every 2nd week of riding I started checking it out thoroughly for proper tourqe ,tensions ,an alignments. just a safety thing .
Gary
I have heard that some of the bolts can come lose and or breake. One should replace and do whatever you can to replace and fix.
Were did you buy the springer from I need to get one............Curt
I always turn the main bolt (the one that tensions the spring) in far enough to add a locknut behind it
(the little setscrew that is supposed to lock the bolt is useless)
that was a tip I got from Roland at spookytooth when I bought my first springer
btw,,,I love this build !!!
(the little setscrew that is supposed to lock the bolt is useless)
that was a tip I got from Roland at spookytooth when I bought my first springer
btw,,,I love this build !!!
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Curt , you can find that springer almost anywhere , bicycledesigner.com, is one place or on bikebuyers.com .
Thanks Bill for the tip on that springer. an thanks all for the complements . I got the tank in primer today , but have to cut an run for an appointment maybe post pics of that tomorrow .
G'day all
Gary
Thanks Bill for the tip on that springer. an thanks all for the complements . I got the tank in primer today , but have to cut an run for an appointment maybe post pics of that tomorrow .
G'day all
Gary
I just got my firsmtrong urban that has springers. Seems to me the bolts at the top holding the forks together are suspect. I will replace those with better bolts for sure. I like the idea on the springer lock nut too - consider that done as well.
I dont think you had to have a motor on the bike that the kid had when it broke. No motor down hill 20mph big pot hole boom break
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=373356&postcount=9
Sure would be nice to know exactly what happened though. Did the bolt break, springer come undone, did he hit a pot hole, speed bump, rock, was it lack of maintanence, was it rusty, or what...etc etc etc... I asked him in a PM but no response yet.
I dont think you had to have a motor on the bike that the kid had when it broke. No motor down hill 20mph big pot hole boom break
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=373356&postcount=9
Sure would be nice to know exactly what happened though. Did the bolt break, springer come undone, did he hit a pot hole, speed bump, rock, was it lack of maintanence, was it rusty, or what...etc etc etc... I asked him in a PM but no response yet.
yea dito that
f, I think YRR would be glad to answer your questions...
He's a fine young fellow.
That being said, I think it was a longer front end, and was out there far enough to put a lot of leverage on it.
AND, making something kid-proof is a big order!
Pretty good on the trike engine mounts!
Especially how they are integrated into the jackshaft carrier.
Would be good to flip those Ubolts over the other way, though.
My own front mount came out horrid.
It's HUGE.
First thing you see, and that ain't the plan!
First wood in a long time, huh?
...I see you forgot to use sanding sealer before applying the stain...
Two or three coats, sanded between, would have allowed the stain to be applied in a more uniform fashion, and not soaking into the grain in various places.
Actually, I might have suggested an oil finish.
That way, if scratched in use, a few minutes rubbing in a bit of oil would have renewed your finish.
Best
rc
He's a fine young fellow.
That being said, I think it was a longer front end, and was out there far enough to put a lot of leverage on it.
AND, making something kid-proof is a big order!
Pretty good on the trike engine mounts!
Especially how they are integrated into the jackshaft carrier.
Would be good to flip those Ubolts over the other way, though.
My own front mount came out horrid.
It's HUGE.
First thing you see, and that ain't the plan!
First wood in a long time, huh?
...I see you forgot to use sanding sealer before applying the stain...
Two or three coats, sanded between, would have allowed the stain to be applied in a more uniform fashion, and not soaking into the grain in various places.
Actually, I might have suggested an oil finish.
That way, if scratched in use, a few minutes rubbing in a bit of oil would have renewed your finish.
Best
rc
If i remember right it was one of the bolts at the pivot point that failed on his springer.
Good Nylocks or drill and pin them with a rollpin
Good Nylocks or drill and pin them with a rollpin
RC my wood workin skills are rusty at best lol , but come to think of it your so right an oil finish would have been a better choice , live an learn tho .
actually on the next bike I am probably going to mount studs in the j shaft carrier an use 2 of the bottom peices instead of a ubolt , I been thinking it would make servicing that much easier an cleaner in its appearance .
next time you make a mount try making a t shape like mine its simple an easy to keep small , also if you want added strength you can drill a hole in the tube your mounting too with a hole saw an slip the t into it , then on the front side drill 4 small holes around the perimeter an plug weld that side an stitch weld around the top , makes it extra beefy , probably overkill but you know for a fact its never moving .
heres the tanks in prime an waiting for a block sand . have a good day all.
Gary
getting anxious for this part >>
actually on the next bike I am probably going to mount studs in the j shaft carrier an use 2 of the bottom peices instead of a ubolt , I been thinking it would make servicing that much easier an cleaner in its appearance .
next time you make a mount try making a t shape like mine its simple an easy to keep small , also if you want added strength you can drill a hole in the tube your mounting too with a hole saw an slip the t into it , then on the front side drill 4 small holes around the perimeter an plug weld that side an stitch weld around the top , makes it extra beefy , probably overkill but you know for a fact its never moving .
heres the tanks in prime an waiting for a block sand . have a good day all.
Gary
getting anxious for this part >>
Attachments
Yes Gary, you are right. A T styled mount extension would have been better.
I got a few different things going on, though... I am looking for the best way to eliminate the tensioner. and my frame has dropouts, so i can't adjust the chain there at the axle.
That leaves me with the motor.
I'm shifting it with shims at the rear mount.
Also, with this schwinn frame, as yours, an extended front mount is required. My shifting engine will require the front mount also be adjustable.
To further complicate things, I wanted to avoid welding on the frame, because most people can't, and I did not want to drill the frame because many folks feel that is less than desirable. And to further complicate things, I wanted to use local hardware store components, which is where I got my Ubolt.
lol
I probably just got into too many variables.
I probably should have devoted my time to learning how to fab a beautiful tank, like you have done! Gosh it's magnificent!!!!
rc
I got a few different things going on, though... I am looking for the best way to eliminate the tensioner. and my frame has dropouts, so i can't adjust the chain there at the axle.
That leaves me with the motor.
I'm shifting it with shims at the rear mount.
Also, with this schwinn frame, as yours, an extended front mount is required. My shifting engine will require the front mount also be adjustable.
To further complicate things, I wanted to avoid welding on the frame, because most people can't, and I did not want to drill the frame because many folks feel that is less than desirable. And to further complicate things, I wanted to use local hardware store components, which is where I got my Ubolt.
lol
I probably just got into too many variables.
I probably should have devoted my time to learning how to fab a beautiful tank, like you have done! Gosh it's magnificent!!!!
rc
Rc I have seen a few mounts that could be adapted to adjust an leave you with no tensioner , tell ya what I will dig around a bit later an see if I can help a bit in your search , no prob is unsurmountable with time an patients.
Gary, that's a beefy headlight mount. Looks like it could double as a tow hook.
At least it won't be bending with the weight of that lamp you have. Looks like about a 50watt sealed beam?
Tom
At least it won't be bending with the weight of that lamp you have. Looks like about a 50watt sealed beam?
Tom
Thanks Tom , at least if it ever needs recovery from some ungodly place thats where the chains go .! lol
since I havent recieved the new turn sigs I built it a bit bigger with the intention of making a mount off of it for the signals , similar to a harleys light bar . that is the smallest lamp an housing I found with the right look , I still think its a bit big but she'll do, an still have to convert it to led , its not a sealed beam it takes the replacement halogen bulbs that plug in the rear like every car on the market .
since I havent recieved the new turn sigs I built it a bit bigger with the intention of making a mount off of it for the signals , similar to a harleys light bar . that is the smallest lamp an housing I found with the right look , I still think its a bit big but she'll do, an still have to convert it to led , its not a sealed beam it takes the replacement halogen bulbs that plug in the rear like every car on the market .
Tom has a source on some really neato looking tail light/turn sig lights...
Have you looked at the ones he used on his EZ rider stiletto?
rc
Have you looked at the ones he used on his EZ rider stiletto?
rc
always a set of these
Vintage style rectangular tail light that would be great on a trike or a sidecar. Combination tail light and brake light comes with a 6V bulb that can be easily switched for a 12V bulb if needed. Lens is 1 1/2" X 3 1/2".
PM me if ya want more info
Looking good Gary. I'm gonna start a mount for the headlight myself. I have an old carbide lantern I hope to use and put some kind of LED light inside. I'll get it mounted and then try to find the innards. I'm not real good with electrical stuff since I can't see anything moving or working, but I'll come up with something. I just want people to be more likely to see me coming, not for night riding.
Dan
Dan
