Whizzer NE-5 belt tensioner headache!

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UFOskeptic

UFOskeptic

New Member
Dec 16, 2009
11
0
0
Illinois
Hello everyone: I just installed a belt tensioner kit from Tiawan for tensioning the belt from the flywheel to the clutch pulley on my Whizzer NE-5. Interestingly, the bearing that holds tension against the belt, slides up and down within the slot on the bracket, which defeats the purpose of the tensioner! I took it apart and it appears to be this way by design, however, the instructions tell you to tighten the 14mm bolt while holding the bearing down against the belt. I sent an email to the outfit in Tiawan, and it came back the same, that the bearing bolt should lock into position when tightened. Anyone installed one of these kits? The gap between the flat washer under the 14mm bolt and the gold washer (on the other side of the bracket) is big enough to prevent the bearing from being clamped into a locked position. Any help would be great! Thank you. "Loose Whizzer Belt John"
 
Quenton Guenther

Quenton Guenther

Dealer
Feb 21, 2008
686
1
0
Outer Banks of North Carolina
Too bad you bought the tension kit, as a simple belt change may have solved your problem. The tension kit was actually made for the manual clutch version, and if installed correctly does help, but it causes the belt to run hotter and wear out much quicker.

You might try a #15285 belt in place of the FHP 4L290, but be aware not all belt companies make the belts exactly the same, and they may vary slightly.

The 15285 is a 15/32" wide and 28.5" long belt and will ride lower in the pulleys, and the
1/2" shorter makes it fit without rubbing the front belt guard mounting post.

The tensioner bearing should have a "Slotted" side of the pin and it normally resides in the groove on the bracket, and the bolt normally holds it in place when tightened.

You can email me pictures of your tensioner and I can advise how to make it work. My email is

[email protected].

I have a few of the tensioner kits in stock and we can compare them to make sure the "outfit in Tiawan" sent you the correct parts.

Have fun,
 
UFOskeptic

UFOskeptic

New Member
Dec 16, 2009
11
0
0
Illinois
Quincy: Thank you so much. I just sent you some pics I took of the tensioner. I was not very clear referring to the 'clutch pulley.' It is a manual clutch system, and I am using a serrated belt. I have spent a lot of time trying to figure this 'floating bearing' fiasco out. Thanks for any help you can give.
Your friend,
John
[email protected]
 
Quenton Guenther

Quenton Guenther

Dealer
Feb 21, 2008
686
1
0
Outer Banks of North Carolina
Hi John,

I sent you a reply to your email. I also included a few pictures. I think if you simply shorten the bushing [file or grind] the bearing will "clamp" tighter on the mounting plate.

The manual & automatic clutch have the same size pulleys, and the 15285 automotive wedge belt will also make the manual work better.

Due to a design flaw by Joe Lin [Tiawan] the original clutch arm isn't the correct length, and makes it very difficult to make the manual clutch work smoothly. It is either tight and the belt doesn't slip when stopped, or loose and allows a stop without "grabbing", but slips at higher speeds. Sadly a 29" belt is too long, and a 28" belt is too short [a 28.5" belt is needed]. He also wasn't smart enough to understand that notched belts were made to work with small pulleys. The vintage Whizzers used a AX26 [28" long] notched belt, and the clutch worked 100% correctly. He elected to use a cheap fractional HP belt [4L290] and it doesn't bend well around the small 2.5" pulley on the flywheel. The cheap FHP belt also stretches, and easily glazes.

Hope this information is helpful.

Have fun,
 
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