Think bike by Ford
- Thread starter Weedylot
- Start date
Haha. I just searched google and found this place. I'm an electrical engineer and just started fixing my mothers Think (Th!nk) bike by ford. We gave her the bike as a gift back in 2002 or so. Awhile back the bike stopped working (battery would not charge) and it sat for some time. Anyway, I literally just started working on it today (6-16-2009).
If the bike is not used for some time (over about 6-8 weeks, maybe less if the batteries are old), the battery voltage becomes too low. When the voltage is too low, the "smart" charger determines the batteries to be shorted or not connected. Thus it looks like the charger and/or battery does not work.
To fix this problem, the batteries voltages need to be increases to a point where the charger can recognize them again. Once the batteries are recognized, the bike well function like new. There are two ways to get the voltage up in the batteries:
1. (Best). Unscrew the battery case. It opens up easily. It holds two motorcycle batteries. I found two of these inside my think battery:
(I'm not allowed to post links)I can assume the yuasa batteries have been discontinued, as I can not find one. I found this replacement:
(cant post links check batterymart)
This replacement battery is actually better (more range) then the stock battery. YOU NEED TO ORDER TWO. Changing these is easier then changing a car battery. They fit inside the stock think battery case and operate exactly like the stock batteries (same charger, ect). btw- the battery case has a built in de-sulfate.
2. Semi-charge the batteries manually. You can use a car 12v battery charger, but it must NOT be a smart charger (ie: auto shut down, auto fault protection, no safety features). You could charge it off a car battery too. You don't need a 24v charger, because you are only putting enough voltage in the batteries for the think charger to recognize the battery again and fully recharge it. Anything near the 14v range should be plenty for the OEM think charger to detect the battery.
Hope this helps!!!
If the bike is not used for some time (over about 6-8 weeks, maybe less if the batteries are old), the battery voltage becomes too low. When the voltage is too low, the "smart" charger determines the batteries to be shorted or not connected. Thus it looks like the charger and/or battery does not work.
To fix this problem, the batteries voltages need to be increases to a point where the charger can recognize them again. Once the batteries are recognized, the bike well function like new. There are two ways to get the voltage up in the batteries:
1. (Best). Unscrew the battery case. It opens up easily. It holds two motorcycle batteries. I found two of these inside my think battery:
(I'm not allowed to post links)I can assume the yuasa batteries have been discontinued, as I can not find one. I found this replacement:
(cant post links check batterymart)
This replacement battery is actually better (more range) then the stock battery. YOU NEED TO ORDER TWO. Changing these is easier then changing a car battery. They fit inside the stock think battery case and operate exactly like the stock batteries (same charger, ect). btw- the battery case has a built in de-sulfate.
2. Semi-charge the batteries manually. You can use a car 12v battery charger, but it must NOT be a smart charger (ie: auto shut down, auto fault protection, no safety features). You could charge it off a car battery too. You don't need a 24v charger, because you are only putting enough voltage in the batteries for the think charger to recognize the battery again and fully recharge it. Anything near the 14v range should be plenty for the OEM think charger to detect the battery.
Hope this helps!!!
I use a battery charger made for autos for my 24 volt systems. I just use one charger for each battery separately. 24volt chargers blow much too easily.
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^^^ That is not good for the batteries. It does not keep them consistant, one battery is going to be much stronger then the other very quickly. The batteries are only $30 each though, so I supose it isn't a big deal.
The best 24volt chargers are the heavy duty car battery chargers mechanics use. The ones on wheels, like a cart. There are actually two chargers on each one of those carts and an option to link them to make a 24v charger.
The best 24volt chargers are the heavy duty car battery chargers mechanics use. The ones on wheels, like a cart. There are actually two chargers on each one of those carts and an option to link them to make a 24v charger.
I Use two identical battery monitor type 1.5 amp chargers. I actually monitor the voltage of each battery after every use. The charters are supposed to keep the batteries charged to the same level.
Usually all my batteries are about 13.25v when they come off the charger. Since I have sealed Lead Acid batteries set up in three different packs, the packs might vary in voltage a bit but each battery in the pack is charged with an identical charger at the same time. They have a monitor light that charges them to approximately 13.25 volts then goes off. They say it come back on when the voltage drops. I have no way to monitor when this happens so I leave both batteries hooked up.
When I use a set of batteries, I hook them up to the chargers until they "green light" then I switch the chargers around from pack to pack charging both in the pack at the same time.
Since I am an experimenter I have blown three 24amp scooter chargers this year alone. Probably half a dozen over all. This battery monitor type chargers from Wally mart are twenty bucks each. They do not blow so for me at least they are a better deal. If I used a standard buy it and run it bike or scooter then the basic charger would be the way to go.
Like everything I build I am doing this by the seat of my pants. I try to learn from listening to others who know more, and god knows there are plenty of them, but I also want to modify it and see what happens as well.
Thanks for the tip though. The best I can figure anytime you use more than a single battery cell, if you don't have a battery balance circuit, you risk unbalanced battery cells, even with a 24volt charger and two cells. Something to do with one battery cell over charging since they would never recharge at the same rate. So you are feeding voltage to a changed battery cell while trying to bring the another one up slightly. At least that is my understanding of why in the Lith packs have the balance module set up to cut off each cell individually. With a simple 24volt charger it would continue to charge both batteries with no regard to the condition of any single cell until the pack reaches the required voltage to shut them down.
But then again I could be completely wrong about this... But if I am not then the two chargers one for each battery might actually is doing a better job at balancing the charge than a single charger would be doing.
To be honest I think that there is no balanced circuitry inside a sla battery anyway and it is composed of multiple cells. So each cell inside the battery is charging at a different rate as well. Most likely the charger thing on an sla battery is is a moot point anyway. It could be that the balance circuit in lith batteries is why they really last longer. That's my take on it but I would be happy to learn better cause god knows I am not expert on batteries.
I'm not sure what I will do this winter because running all those batteries in parallel will do the same thing, keep them charged at different rates. I will be running the charger through charged batteries to reach ones that have fallen some. But then again that's what will happen since there are multiple cells with no balance circuit inside the batteries themselves.
Usually all my batteries are about 13.25v when they come off the charger. Since I have sealed Lead Acid batteries set up in three different packs, the packs might vary in voltage a bit but each battery in the pack is charged with an identical charger at the same time. They have a monitor light that charges them to approximately 13.25 volts then goes off. They say it come back on when the voltage drops. I have no way to monitor when this happens so I leave both batteries hooked up.
When I use a set of batteries, I hook them up to the chargers until they "green light" then I switch the chargers around from pack to pack charging both in the pack at the same time.
Since I am an experimenter I have blown three 24amp scooter chargers this year alone. Probably half a dozen over all. This battery monitor type chargers from Wally mart are twenty bucks each. They do not blow so for me at least they are a better deal. If I used a standard buy it and run it bike or scooter then the basic charger would be the way to go.
Like everything I build I am doing this by the seat of my pants. I try to learn from listening to others who know more, and god knows there are plenty of them, but I also want to modify it and see what happens as well.
Thanks for the tip though. The best I can figure anytime you use more than a single battery cell, if you don't have a battery balance circuit, you risk unbalanced battery cells, even with a 24volt charger and two cells. Something to do with one battery cell over charging since they would never recharge at the same rate. So you are feeding voltage to a changed battery cell while trying to bring the another one up slightly. At least that is my understanding of why in the Lith packs have the balance module set up to cut off each cell individually. With a simple 24volt charger it would continue to charge both batteries with no regard to the condition of any single cell until the pack reaches the required voltage to shut them down.
But then again I could be completely wrong about this... But if I am not then the two chargers one for each battery might actually is doing a better job at balancing the charge than a single charger would be doing.
To be honest I think that there is no balanced circuitry inside a sla battery anyway and it is composed of multiple cells. So each cell inside the battery is charging at a different rate as well. Most likely the charger thing on an sla battery is is a moot point anyway. It could be that the balance circuit in lith batteries is why they really last longer. That's my take on it but I would be happy to learn better cause god knows I am not expert on batteries.
I'm not sure what I will do this winter because running all those batteries in parallel will do the same thing, keep them charged at different rates. I will be running the charger through charged batteries to reach ones that have fallen some. But then again that's what will happen since there are multiple cells with no balance circuit inside the batteries themselves.
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Well, it appears my charger is also broken. I took it apart and the transfomer is shorted. Sucks, because the transfomer was custom made and you can't just get a replacement transfomer.
Theres a circuit board in with the batterys, that I have no idea what it does. The entire battery chargeing setup is weird. It looks like it just trickle charges the batterys until they are full, because the wires from the charger to the battery are only 18 ga, while the wires from the battery to the bike/motor are 8ga. And you need to connect eight wires to charge the battery?? I think their is a 5v dc circuit in there as well. Anyway, its a weird configuration.
I'm ordering an universal 24v 2amp charger and I'll post back how it works. I'm hoping to not need to by-pass the circuit board in with the batterys.
Theres a circuit board in with the batterys, that I have no idea what it does. The entire battery chargeing setup is weird. It looks like it just trickle charges the batterys until they are full, because the wires from the charger to the battery are only 18 ga, while the wires from the battery to the bike/motor are 8ga. And you need to connect eight wires to charge the battery?? I think their is a 5v dc circuit in there as well. Anyway, its a weird configuration.
I'm ordering an universal 24v 2amp charger and I'll post back how it works. I'm hoping to not need to by-pass the circuit board in with the batterys.
I am curious about the battery set on all those proprietary bikes. If a 24volt battery pack would run them, it seems it would be easier to just cut the battery pack out and replace it with one that works. I'm pretty sure I would do that with the currie Izip.
I have no idea about any of the others.
These bikes should be very simple power onto the motor and it runs. The new two speed circuitry does all I could ask. The 12 volt setting will not blow the fuse when I start off even with battery power as a start. The 24 volt will zip it along and I just kill it when it gets to fast. I can switch back to 12 volts or just let it coast. So far it seems to work fine. The way I blow battery chargers and controllers this just makes more sense for me.
I have no idea about any of the others.
These bikes should be very simple power onto the motor and it runs. The new two speed circuitry does all I could ask. The 12 volt setting will not blow the fuse when I start off even with battery power as a start. The 24 volt will zip it along and I just kill it when it gets to fast. I can switch back to 12 volts or just let it coast. So far it seems to work fine. The way I blow battery chargers and controllers this just makes more sense for me.
Incase anyone is looking, here are the specs on these bikes:
Specifications TH!NK bikes
Fun
Dimensions
Operating size:
(L) - 71.8 inches
(W) - 27.6 inches
(H) - 32.3-38.6 inches
Total weight: 72.7 lbs max
26 inch wheels
Performance
400 watt DC brush motor
24 volt energy source
30 mile average range
1-4 hour charging time
Aluminum frame and components
Dual "V" brakes
Variable power control
Safety
Built-in diagnostic system
Brake disengages motor output
Electric assist up to 20 mph
Dual leg bike stand
Built-in battery & front wheel locks
Comfort
Large padded comfort saddle
Front suspension fork - option
Adjustable saddle & handlebar for best riding position
Sport fenders
Convenience
On-board/off-board battery charger
Energy level indicator
Full charge indicator light
Index twist-grip speed shifter
Front & rear quick release wheel
Price
Approximately $1,000
Traveler
Dimensions
Operating size:
(L) - 55.2 inches
(W) - 21.3 inches
(H) - 29.5-35.4 inches
Folding size:
(L) - 27.6 inches
(W) - 19.7 inches
(H) - 23.6 inches
Frame weight 39.9 lbs
Battery weight 13.3 lbs
20 inch wheels
Performance
250 watt motor
24 volt energy source
18-20 mile average range
2-4 hour charging time
Aluminum frame and components
Dual "V" brakes
Variable power control
Safety
Built-in diagnostic system
Brake disengages motor output
Electric assist up to 20 mph
Dual leg bike stand
Built-in battery & front wheel locks
Comfort
Comfort saddle
Adjustable saddle & handlebar for best riding position
Convenience
On-board / off-board battery charger
Energy level indicator
Full charge indicator light
Index twist-grip speed shifter
Price
Approximately $1,200
Specifications TH!NK bikes
Fun
Dimensions
Operating size:
(L) - 71.8 inches
(W) - 27.6 inches
(H) - 32.3-38.6 inches
Total weight: 72.7 lbs max
26 inch wheels
Performance
400 watt DC brush motor
24 volt energy source
30 mile average range
1-4 hour charging time
Aluminum frame and components
Dual "V" brakes
Variable power control
Safety
Built-in diagnostic system
Brake disengages motor output
Electric assist up to 20 mph
Dual leg bike stand
Built-in battery & front wheel locks
Comfort
Large padded comfort saddle
Front suspension fork - option
Adjustable saddle & handlebar for best riding position
Sport fenders
Convenience
On-board/off-board battery charger
Energy level indicator
Full charge indicator light
Index twist-grip speed shifter
Front & rear quick release wheel
Price
Approximately $1,000
Traveler
Dimensions
Operating size:
(L) - 55.2 inches
(W) - 21.3 inches
(H) - 29.5-35.4 inches
Folding size:
(L) - 27.6 inches
(W) - 19.7 inches
(H) - 23.6 inches
Frame weight 39.9 lbs
Battery weight 13.3 lbs
20 inch wheels
Performance
250 watt motor
24 volt energy source
18-20 mile average range
2-4 hour charging time
Aluminum frame and components
Dual "V" brakes
Variable power control
Safety
Built-in diagnostic system
Brake disengages motor output
Electric assist up to 20 mph
Dual leg bike stand
Built-in battery & front wheel locks
Comfort
Comfort saddle
Adjustable saddle & handlebar for best riding position
Convenience
On-board / off-board battery charger
Energy level indicator
Full charge indicator light
Index twist-grip speed shifter
Price
Approximately $1,200
This is a random question but does anyone have any information about fixing or purchasing a new battery and charger for a thinkbike?
silly, read the first post made on 6-16-09, by boostt. It most likely applies to you, though you'll obviously need new batteries to begin with. You likely won't need another charger, though.
yeah I posted the message before I saw that. I've got my batteries checked out and they both seem to be working fine but I may just have to go purchase new ones. I've been trying everything to get this bike up and running again, its just a pain in the butt...
I was wondering if anyone knew if a thinkbike traveler battery would still work on a regular thinkbike?
Looking for the charger for the Think Bike Traveler. Or a way to charge the batteries. Can anyone help??
Or if anyone is interested in buying this bike then send me an email.
Thanks!!
Or if anyone is interested in buying this bike then send me an email.
Thanks!!
I actually have 2 think Bikes. I work for Ford corporate and I purchased these back in 2002 from my company. I really enjoy riding these and they are great trasportation for leisurely exercise. The batteries are just marie batteries that are taped together. I have purchased new batteries for both bikes since the beginnint of the year because I let the bikes sit for a couple of year. You can take the batteries out of the case and take them to an auto parts store to have them trickle (slow) charged and you should be fine until they need charging again. I have 3 chargers. One needs repair. I may be interested in selling the one that needs repair. Take care.
Why not modify the bike a little:
I always suspected that they were ordinary batteries. I would drill a couple of holes in the case and run some wire in and solder them to the battery terminals and charge them that way with a simple battery tender. one battery at a time. I have three tenders so I could do them all at once i expect. that would be my solution. That and replacing them with common batteries, if need be. Will that work?
I always suspected that they were ordinary batteries. I would drill a couple of holes in the case and run some wire in and solder them to the battery terminals and charge them that way with a simple battery tender. one battery at a time. I have three tenders so I could do them all at once i expect. that would be my solution. That and replacing them with common batteries, if need be. Will that work?
Hey you guys!! How about some pictures of your think bikes , for us guys in the dark ?? ( maybe I'm the only one) I was a Ford michanic for many years , never heard of or saw a think bike by ford.. What years were they made? take care Bill
Hi guys . Greeting from upstate NY , I am post some pic of my bike so you guy can see , It's run like a charm . I replace the 2 batterys inside with the new one I bought from the net . If anyone need I 'll be happy to send you the code so you can order the right one. Summer is just around the corner I can't wait.
Attachments
I'm sort of shooting in the dark when it comes to performance of my Think Bike.
Huan Vu, Since your bike seems to be functioning well, can you provide me a bit of detail.
1) What voltage is your battery pack at when you are done with a charge? (24V? 25v? 26V? more?)
a)how many LED's lights are lit on your "dashboard" computer at this voltage?
2) What voltage is the battery pack at when you drop to 1 LED lit on the "dashboard" computer?
3)How long does it take to get a "full" charge if you start out with the batteries "empty". (One LED lit on "dashboard" computer?)
I have not been able to get my dashboard computer up to 5 LEDs lit yet.
The most I have gotten lit are 3 LEDs and the pack voltage was ~26 volts.
My charger is the original 24V charger that came with the bike.
It took all night to move the batteries from 24V to 26V.
While charging, I have seen the battery pack measure 29V or so, but of course as soon as I take it off the charger it settles down a bit to its resting voltage.
The charger always is in fast charge mode (one Red light on). So far it has never turned off by itself.
Huan Vu, Since your bike seems to be functioning well, can you provide me a bit of detail.
1) What voltage is your battery pack at when you are done with a charge? (24V? 25v? 26V? more?)
a)how many LED's lights are lit on your "dashboard" computer at this voltage?
2) What voltage is the battery pack at when you drop to 1 LED lit on the "dashboard" computer?
3)How long does it take to get a "full" charge if you start out with the batteries "empty". (One LED lit on "dashboard" computer?)
I have not been able to get my dashboard computer up to 5 LEDs lit yet.
The most I have gotten lit are 3 LEDs and the pack voltage was ~26 volts.
My charger is the original 24V charger that came with the bike.
It took all night to move the batteries from 24V to 26V.
While charging, I have seen the battery pack measure 29V or so, but of course as soon as I take it off the charger it settles down a bit to its resting voltage.
The charger always is in fast charge mode (one Red light on). So far it has never turned off by itself.
I'm guessing this is the bike behind the current laws in Canada outlawing gas engine motorbikes, but allowing ebikes. As I understand it Ford was there in force when the legislators determined what the laws should be regarding motored bicycles. If this is the case, isn't it nice that once they got what they wanted they stopped making the bikes.
SB
SB
