firing

First disconnect your kill switch to be sure it isn't a problem, also make sure the white wire is isolated/not grounding anywhere..... Did you take the cap off the spark plug and push plug boot onto the bare threaded top of the spark plug? If not, you will not get a good connection to the plug..... and you are sure the motor is turning over? (meaning you know you don't have a clutch problem?)

It could be the small wire coming out of the magneto that is soldered to the mag arm. I've had this happen on a few of my most recent engines. Just a bad solder joint which is easy to fix. If you have a continuity checker, check from the blue wire to the mag arm- should have continuity

Things to look for....
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aBeJuoS--VQWwXysc07rpscTUbPzgc93xjiQBgsyFjc/edit

I had this happen again to me today. Just resoldered the little wire to the mag arm and it works just fine now. Al I think posted a link to some real helpful info for you. Maybe try just soldering the wire to the mag arm and check for spark? What I do is turn the engine over with my drill on the mag nut with the spark plug out and grounded-makes it alot easier than trying to roll the bike while looking for spark.

Plug wire, boot? Never a bad idea to try an NGK plug..... (did you unscrew the cap from your spark plug if you have the stock boot?)

I think I was wrong about continuity from the blue to the mag arm-sorry- but I looked at my new mag just yesterday and you should have continuity from the white wire to the mag arm (little wire) and the ohms reading from blue to white wires should be in the .350 range. This I'm sure about.
If you haven't already I would replace the crappy stock plug wire with an automotive type plug wire and the ngk plug. The stock wire is copper cored and sometimes the wire inside just breaks not to mention the crappy spring connector in the boot. Automotive plugs are a carbon based core and are much better. I use the ngkb6hs in all my bikes with good results but that being said I've always ran the stock plug first for a couple tanks and in about 40 kits I've never had a bad stock plug- luck? could be?

I beg to differ on the wires. Copper core is the best to use. Resistor wires were made available because the copper core wire created static in the radios. Now if you have a radio installed on your bike go with the copper core wire. Many here will agree with me on this.

If impregnated core is so good, why are they not the norm in wiring?
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

bluenosegoat said:

I think I was wrong about continuity from the blue to the mag arm-sorry- but I looked at my new mag just yesterday and you should have continuity from the white wire to the mag arm (little wire) and the ohms reading from blue to white wires should be in the .350 range. This I'm sure about.
If you haven't already I would replace the crappy stock plug wire with an automotive type plug wire and the ngk plug. The stock wire is copper cored and sometimes the wire inside just breaks not to mention the crappy spring connector in the boot. Automotive plugs are a carbon based core and are much better. I use the ngkb6hs in all my bikes with good results but that being said I've always ran the stock plug first for a couple tanks and in about 40 kits I've never had a bad stock plug- luck? could be?

Click to expand...

I beg to differ on the wires. Copper core is the best to use. Resistor wires were made available because the copper core wire caused problems. Resistor wires were created for SUPPRESSION of RFI (radio frequency interference) and EMI (electromagnetic interference). Now if you have a radio installed on your bike go with the copper core wire. Many here will agree with me on this. The stock supplied is thin and strands bay break on many kits, but not on all as the wire in some kits seem to be updated. But I replace all with a premium wire and cap, along with a NGK plug.
"Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines" Ummm Wonder why?

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

KS Firefighter said:

where do i get plug wire? rob it from a mower? 2 plug boots both screwed in right and everything figure at least one should be working right the wire does seem to be testing funny too when i test between plug and blue i get nothing.

will try to get a new plug today too just to have it once i get the damn thing running haha.

Click to expand...

I just went to the automotive store and asked them to see their box of single plug/coil wires, they are usually kept behind the counter. The merchant was nice enough to let me thumb through the pile and find what I wanted. I ended up with a wire that was about 2 foot long with two right angle plug boots on it (I think it was a coil wire), I was able to cut it in half and make two new plug wires out of it. They work awesome!
That said, are you SURE you aren't barking up a wrong tree here? Is it possible you are not testing for spark properly? Like you said, kinda strange that two wires in two different CDI's both have a bad wire...
Most kits come with a spare spark plug, so I would swap the plug if you have one, couldn't hurt, or better yet get an NGK plug. They are only a couple bucks.

PS There are diodes, resistors, capacitors and a SCR inside your CDI, so you will not be reading direct continuity between the CDI wires. I just pulled out a spare cdi and did some readings:

Black to Blue/Blue to Black readings are ascending, this means my meeter is charging up the capacitor and a stable reading is NOT expected here initially. Eventually, when the cap is charged it settles on OPEN black to blue, and 2.46M Ohm Blue to Black.
Blue to Plug Boot: measures 2.46Meg Ohm
Plug Boot to Blue: Measurements ascending to infinity
Black to Plug Boot/Plug Boot to Black: Measures 11.71K Ohms

Again, the diodes in the unit block current in certain directions, and the capacitor charges, so the readings will fluctuate a bit.....

KS Firefighter said:

plug boot to blue for me is giving no reaction on 2k scale which is what the guide thing said to test on but on other ohm scales im getting a different reading kinda new to using my meter

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Like I said in the previous post, there is a capacitor charging when you put your meter across these connections, so the reading will be changing. Once charged the readings will likely reach a point of stability. If you discharge the capacitor your readings will vary again. Bottom line, not a simple resistance measurement here, so if you are new at using a meter and don't know much about electronics you are gonna be nothing but confused....
Since you have two CDI's I would venture to guess that BOTH of them are not bad, so forget about doing measurements on it, it's probably not your problem.
I am gonna just throw this out there again, is it possible you are mistaken that lack of spark is your problem???

A reading of 0 ohms means that there is no resistance between the two points you're measuring which means that they do connect directly. 0 does not mean there is no continuity, quite the opposite.