Chain bunching up in the engine sprocket?

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Rocky_Motor

New Member
Nov 14, 2011
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Fort Collins & Boulder
I am soooo close to finishing, the last problem I have before putting gas in is that the chain is bunching up and getting stuck, then locking up the rear wheel on the engine sprocket



That thing.

I put the chain tensioner on and it helped, but when I popped the clutch to see what would happen the chain got real stuck and had to take the cover off and unstick it that way. Should I grind down the sprocket teeth a little?
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Your chain is too loose. You'll want 1/2 to 3/4" slack in the top run of the chain when you're moving the rear wheel, clutch engaged and the piston up against a compression stroke. And more or less and you can have chain problems.

Also chain alignment is critical. Viewed from the rear of the bike, looking forward the chain path must be a straight line between the drive and driven sprockets.

Typically the engine sprocket is smooth enough but the rear sprockets in most kits can benefit from smoothing the rough edges off the teeth. I use a 3-M metal finishing pad on a side grinder but a wire wheel on a bench grinder or drill motor will also do the job. Lacking power tools you can run a file over the sharp edges of the rear sprocket, perferably before it's installed to take off the edges.

Tom
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
Make sure your alignment is correct and the chain is adjusted tight enough. If you can ride it with the clutch pulled in without running the engine the sprockets will wear off the rough edges. Sorry if it sounds like I repeated what 2-door said but we were posting at the same time!
 
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leadfarmer

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
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VA
The picture makes it look like your chain is hitting the lower screw boss. That will make your chain stop up. Can you lower your engine? Or if that is not possible you may have to dremel that lower screw boss.
 

Rocky_Motor

New Member
Nov 14, 2011
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Fort Collins & Boulder
I don't think it does when I have it set up I think I took something off when I did that picture.
I can tighten the chain a fair bit more and see where it gets me tonight or tomorrow. Hopefully I don't need to take any more links out. I don't have a clue how to use the masterlink no matter how much I fiddle with it, so I just popped links out and put it back together with the pins and a hammer. Holds the chain just fine but makes it somewhat difficult to put back together unless I have a surface to hammer the chain.

Sounds worse than it is. I'm looking forward to giving it that tightening though and hopefully it is all she needs :D
 

gera229

New Member
Sep 4, 2011
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USA
My chain was getting stuck all the time because it was not moving smoothly.

First: Alignment from sprocket to sprocket.. is it straight?
Second:
My problem was the chain was not oiled.
Put some motor oil all over the chain and right then it solved the problem. No more lock ups/ getting stuck.
 

Rocky_Motor

New Member
Nov 14, 2011
367
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Fort Collins & Boulder
Got the chain workin well as far as I can tell, going to get some gas now :D
last question I promise.. for now. I can't find it here, although im sure it is somewhere, what torque should the head bolts be


Edit: nvm found it. I saw somebodys bike today, military like with a black engine. I really liked it, I wonder if it belongs to a member here
Edit2: thanks for the help guys, she's up and running!!

A pre checked and cleaned cylinder, Correctly torqued head, SBP exhaust gasket, and an O-ring for the carb. A couple of replaced steel bolts and nuts too.
It was such an exciting few minutes on the first ride, I had to stop though because it was really quite cold. Idle seems perfectly fine from the get go, I'll fiddle with it later. Quite a strong pull even at idle. I'm only 160 pounds so that helps. Got to change some things and fix my brakes but I am quite glad I am at the point that I got to ride it :D

.wee.
 
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leadfarmer

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
149
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VA
Quote" Idle seems perfectly fine from the get go,I'll fiddle with it later" HA HA That is a motorized bicycler for you.
Some one here has the sig line"If it ain't broke,fix it until it is" or something like that. LOL
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
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Left coast
IMO

This, is among the problems with the HT/chinagirl design.

The chain drive sprocket is too small ans packed in too tight a casting so a larger sprocket may not be installed.

What is occurring here is, when under power, the chain is drawn very sharply by the sprocket teeth contributing to accelerated wear.

Additionally, the chain is physically thrown away from the sprocket, when under load, and the small enclosure of the casing is frequently hammered by the chain, sometimes causing a lockup.

In the occasion of decelerating, forces from the chain against that small sprocket are also generated, especially when bump starting the motor!

Once again, IMO, the design would be much improved with a larger diameter 13t sprocket, yet there is no easy fix for this without serious modification of the case.

...Somewhere I read an opinion that the drive sprocket should always be a primary number to avoid harmonics and premature chain wear...
I'm not sure how that would work to advantage when the rear sprocket is a 4:1 ratio of the primary sprocket...

IMO
Most chain probs are caused by a rag joint NOT suitably fixed in a concentric position, running in an oval shape, making the chain tight, then loose, in each revolution.
This will cause undue strain on the tensioner and increased likelihood of a hangup at the drive sprocket.
Also, too long of a chain, (by a link or two), will require the chain tensioner being positioned farther back, or higher up in it's mount, putting a sharp angle in the chain.
This configuration will put a lot of torque on the tensioner bracket, forcing it inwards on a collision path with the spokes.

Hope this is helpful for consideration...

Best
rc