Im new to motor bicycling and im almost done with my first build. I have a blacked out 29 in onex genesis bike all set to go just have to mount chain tensioner and gas tank with feul lines. Everything else is ready to go but i have a major dilemma. the only way to move the bike forward with the back wheel to spin, somewhat freely, is to take the spark plug out. Even without it in the engine seems like its always in gear and turning over ( without the spark plug and feul tank). i pull the clutch handle in so its in 'bike mode' but its really not. i need some help because i dont no what to do from here. Anything will help!
Need some help!
- Thread starter anota
- Start date
I'm not an expert on this either, but it kind of sounds like your piston might be hitting the plug, which is bad. Are you using the right plug?
As far as the clutch goes, how far does your lever move your clutch arm? Does manually moving the clutch arm disengage the clutch? If so, adjust your clutch cable. If not, do you have both a bucking bar and 8mm bearing on the left side under the drive sprocket cover? Have you tried adjusting your flower nut? Searches and stickied threads under the "Classic instructions" board might be helpful if you don't know how to do this.
As far as the clutch goes, how far does your lever move your clutch arm? Does manually moving the clutch arm disengage the clutch? If so, adjust your clutch cable. If not, do you have both a bucking bar and 8mm bearing on the left side under the drive sprocket cover? Have you tried adjusting your flower nut? Searches and stickied threads under the "Classic instructions" board might be helpful if you don't know how to do this.
Sounds like your clutch cable needs to be tighter try pulling the cable more then tightend down the screw that holds it in place. Your clutch should be pretty hard to pull of it isn't the cable isn't tight enough the clutch arm(on the motor) should be pulled in enough that it disengages the engine hope I helped if you have any other questions just ask I'm new too but I know enough about them to help!
thanks you both! im gunna go tryto adjust the cable first if not im going to study up on how to adjust the clutch. thanks again
Do a search on clutch adjustment. JOHNC123 is right, it's probably your clutch needs some adjustment.
You should freewheel (bike mode) when the clutch is pulled. If not, you're clutch isn't disengaging correctly.
There is two ways to adjust the clutch. Adjustment of the cluch lever, or adjustment of the clutch itself.
Again, do a search and you will have plenty of info on how to adjust the clutch. Even youtube has a few vids.
You should freewheel (bike mode) when the clutch is pulled. If not, you're clutch isn't disengaging correctly.
There is two ways to adjust the clutch. Adjustment of the cluch lever, or adjustment of the clutch itself.
Again, do a search and you will have plenty of info on how to adjust the clutch. Even youtube has a few vids.
I agree that its likely to be a clutch issue. you can try to adjust the clutch cables, but if that does not work, then use this opportunity, to open up the gear case and understand how it all works... be careful not to damage gaskets on the gear case cover. there is a small bronze flower nut in the center of the large flywheel/clutch. it works by sandwiching the drive gear between the flywheel and the front cover that your looking at...
1.return all the clutch cables to the smaller position
2. remove clutch cover.
3.take out the small screw and adjust the flower nut so that the clutch engages/disengages properly.
4.put it all back together, ride your bike for a while, and you may need to readjust the clutch cables if necessary as cable stretch occurs.
!another important note is the clutch arm. with the clutch handle in the disengaged position, and the clutch in the engaged position. the clutch arm should have the smallest amount of freeplay. it should completely engage the clutch.... the arm should be parallel with the chain line.
finally when storing your bike, always engage the clutch to remove tension from the clutch cable. and remember to close your petcock. as the fuel system is gravity fed.
thank you that helps alot! yeah my clutch handle is very loose so it might just be that its not disengaging completely but if not ill try that out. thanks for the advice!
so tightening the clutch cable helped alot! and the bikes moves freely. im just wondering if its usual for the engine to still be clicking at all??
I'm having a similar issue. I haven't started the bike yet but when I pull in the clutch handle it doesn't roll as freely as I think it should. And I hear the same loud clicking noises. I Have never seen a motorized bike up close and in person besides my own so I have no point of reference. Thanks.
adjust your clutch cable and you'll be good to go.
you want the clutch arm (on the left side of the engine) to be loose, and you should be able to wiggle it back & forth with the clutch engauged (clutch lever out).
when you squeeze the clutch handle in to disengauge the clutch, the bike should freewheel with the clutch handle about 1/2 - 3/4 of the squeezed.
the engine shoudl not be turning over with the clutch handle squeezed in.
don't be misinformed because there will still be some drag when you have the clutch disengauged, the bile and rear wheel will not move as freely or as easily as it did without the engine.
you're still turning the engine chain, which is turning the clutch, which will cause resistance while peddling.
you want the clutch arm (on the left side of the engine) to be loose, and you should be able to wiggle it back & forth with the clutch engauged (clutch lever out).
when you squeeze the clutch handle in to disengauge the clutch, the bike should freewheel with the clutch handle about 1/2 - 3/4 of the squeezed.
the engine shoudl not be turning over with the clutch handle squeezed in.
don't be misinformed because there will still be some drag when you have the clutch disengauged, the bile and rear wheel will not move as freely or as easily as it did without the engine.
you're still turning the engine chain, which is turning the clutch, which will cause resistance while peddling.
Thanks for the input. The bike started up real nice on the first test run but after three blocks or so my chain started making some loud noises like it was binding up so I slowed down to check it out and when I came to a stop it completely came off the engine cog. I think it's because my downtube mount is super ghhetto and so the engine tilted a little... When it's not one thing it's another....
**** yeah it works. but it wont idle now! got so many problems! i pop the clutch when i pedal and i have to give it gas to start. i ride smooth(or atleast i think) and then when i come to around 2mph it bogs hard and stops. if anyone can help me it would be much apreciated
2 MPH is too slow for the engine to be engaged with the rear wheel. You need to disengage the clutch at anything slower than 10 MPH or thereabouts.
At idle speed, if the engine actually had enough power to keep running while turning that slowly, you would be going around 5 MPH +/- depending on your gearing choice.
At idle speed, if the engine actually had enough power to keep running while turning that slowly, you would be going around 5 MPH +/- depending on your gearing choice.
I had my first successful ride today! 
The chain didnt pop off, the motor didnt die randomly, the kill switch worked whenever I wanted too, the clutch works smoothly. I feel like a champion.
The chain didnt pop off, the motor didnt die randomly, the kill switch worked whenever I wanted too, the clutch works smoothly. I feel like a champion.
im also having the "clicking" issue, especially after the first few hundred miles. i have a hunch its in the clutch assembly. i think that the clutch pads are not all the exact same thickness, and when the freewheel turns the front clutch plate tilts one way and then another, and i think that is the click. It shouldnt damage anything. And if you search ebay, you can get small round clutch pads, instead of the rectangular ones in the stock build. that should allow the clutch plate to ride evenly all the way around. im going to try the round clutch pads, when these wear out.
you can also flip the pads over and use them again.
try to avoid getting grease in the innards of the clutch assembly.
youtube has all the info you could possibly need.
you can also flip the pads over and use them again.
try to avoid getting grease in the innards of the clutch assembly.
youtube has all the info you could possibly need.
