contemplating my next try.

deacon · May 23, 2011

I took a couple of days and fitted the rhino Emotor to the big bike I had the HF 2.5 on. I plan to ride it on the bike trail this summer. I have it self contained good for about three miles. After that I am going to need the trailer with more batteries. I'm going to build a lighter weight trailer for the batteries this time, since I am running it on low power, I went back old school with it. Just a switch from home depot's house electrical department and a circuit breaker. The emergency kill switch, which is likely going to be used, is just a loop of wire I can break the circuit with. Very basic assist bike.

What to build to actually buzz around town, I don't know yet. Something very basic, easy and inexpensive like always. Only they never stay inexpensive.

cannonball2 · May 23, 2011

So what are you thinkin deacon?

deacon · May 23, 2011

I walked out of my kids house sunday after pizza/ Went through the garage and there hanging on her wall was was a craftsman 33 cc full crank weed whacker. I have been thinking about a wheel on wheel gasoline drive again. Probably not that motor but the Bumble bee did well with that rig. Would probably still be going if I had realized that it had an external bearing for the drive shaft. So I think I will build another gas wheel on wheel.

That's one thought but I also think I will call a couple of the old fashioned kind of lawnmower replair shops and see if I can find something and just start with the engine and go from there. I really haven't given it a lot of serious thought. I have been so involved with getting the ebike up and running again.

cannonball2 · May 24, 2011

I wouldnt think 33cc would make it for you after the big engine. Look for an old B&S or Tecumseh in the 3.5hp range from a mower shop. Would make a great engine , and probably cheap enough. Im going on with the HF engine on a rear mount, with an auto clutch, belt drive roller(cheap rubber). The belt drive allows the clutch to be easily used and also allows for variable ratios for the roller. Its going on a Schwinn cruiser. I swear its my last bike!

deacon · May 24, 2011

Last bike my butt... it's the building not the riding... I built the HF because I told my wife I needed a gas bike for range. You know honey, so I can ride across town. So I spent all my time trying to think of places to go. everything I need is within 3 miles of my house. I build the bikes just because I have some crazy idea and want to make it work.

I'm such an idiot...

Oh I don't think I could live with 33cc either. It wouldn't be any more bike than the Ebike I'm going to ride for exercise. Even the Ebike I powered down to ride for exercise because I know how to make it run faster and better but that defeats the purpose.

If I go wheel on wheel I will still use the lift clutch just have to life the whole thing. I found out from the H'F bike that if you set your lever just a little past vertical you can lift a heck of a lot weight easily.

I think I would really like something about 2hp or under. That snow blower motor I had just before the HF was 3.5 and was a heck of a lot of motor. I didn't repair it because I had this wild hair that I wanted to build with a new motor so I would have all the problems of a used one. <<<<<<Right>>>>>

deacon · May 25, 2011

I have a lead on a couple of 32cc engines. One is a full crank and the other is ryobi both need work, Those things are almost always carbs but I will see if I get them.

deacon · May 26, 2011

I have decided that I'm going to build a wheel on a wheel 31cc bike with a weed whacker motor. Now the first issue was how to get a sprocket on the silly little motor. I have one of those little square ended adapters that you find on the end of the drive shaft after you pull the boom and whacker head. So I got a crazy idea. I ran a 1/4 inch tap down it. Sure enough I didn't even drill it. just ran it into the square hole and it cut thread. I attached a #25 sprocket I had laying around with a quarter inch bolt. Since it is pretty far from the teeth of the sprocket due to a hub on the sprocket, I might hit it with a low amp weld In a couple of places just to keep it from backing off.

Now when I get an engine, I have something to attach to it.

cannonball2 · May 26, 2011

I am well familar with the clutch you are working with. Its unsupported, you are asking a lot of it! The sprocket will be way out there on a tiny shaft. Not giving you a hard time, just trying to think it through with you.

deacon · May 26, 2011

Im not going to be using the clutch model. This is the hard pipe type end. It will be out about two inches from the base of the flywheel. It might give up the ghost on me but I hope not. Oh I know you aren't giving me a hard time. That little end is the question mark right now.

"Of course one of the motors I'm looking at is on a blower so it will be different entirely. That one I don't have a clue. It looks as though the guy isn't so anxious to sell since he hasn't answered the second email. I may wind up buying a motor on ebay again.

cannonball2 · May 26, 2011

The blower has a very long shaft, as I remember has a 5/16 thread on the end. Would be easier I guess to put a solid/pipe roller on. You have to remember a friction drive loads the crank pretty well if it is direct. An engine with a double supported crank(bearing at each end) has the best chance at survival. The most common/cheap hand held engines are single end supported, they have two bearings, but they are on the same end. I know you didnt have a very good experience with chain saws, but they offer the best designs and the most power for the $$.

deacon · May 26, 2011

I have had lousy luck with chainsaws. I think that the biggest problem I had with direct drive is the motor hanging by the roller. It puts an awful strain on the engine. It also makes makes the vibrators that tear the engine apart.

I hope the the wheel on wheel eleminates that hanging bind on the drive shaft. It might work better with a chain saw. One of the old metal case ones migh wrork pretty well. I'm hoping that the chain drive to the second wheel will eliminate the vibrations some and take the weight of the engine off the drive shaft. That might also work on a chainsaw engine. The last one I had the problems were with the plastic case.

deacon · May 27, 2011

I got to thinking about the shaft thing and I remembered an experiment I did to make a generator from a blower motor and a 24v 300 watt motor. I completely wrecked the blower motor. It ran a little while but it eventurally just disentigrated. I think i might just rule out those unless I find one somewhere free. Not likely these days.

Now I'm wondering if I can attach the sprocket to the sprocket on a chainsaw. I had trouble with their shafts but those and the ryobi weekeater are 3/8" if memory serves me. The ryobi might work as well as a small chainsaw from back in the day with the metal cases. Those plastic ones are hard to deal with.

deacon · May 28, 2011

Now I need help...

I had terrible luck with Craigs list. No one called me back or answered my emails. So I went on ebay and bid on a poulan chainsaw motor. I have some experience with them. At least at what not to do.

So I know that it comes with a centrifugal clutch. My question is could I weld something to that clutch sprocket, if I don't take it off the motor. I am going to assume that it will be shipped with the gas all out of it. Even it not I would just cover it and weld anyway. I like to live dangerously.

I have a second option I have done previously. Just remove the clutch and weld to the winged clutch nut and do a lift clutch which is fine with me I like them. Just wondered it the clutch bell could stand the secondary heat from the welder.

cannonball2 · May 28, 2011

Depends on which way the clutch is mounted. If outboard great, if inboard you are are pretty much screwed as far as a clutch goes. Bigger saws are often outboard, and if you are lucky might have a rim sprocket which you can remove and center over the drive splines and weld to the drum. I would remove the drum, and maybe sit it on a wet towel to weld it to keep it as coool as possible to avoid warpping, weld a little bit at a time and let it cool. You can use a portion of the bar maybe

to use as the mount leaving, the saw pretty much intact.

deacon · May 28, 2011

I just saw the picture of the saw and the blade is gone as is the bell of the clutch but he swears it runs fine just broke the blade studs. I will probably end up removing the clutch and using the nut to weld to. either direct drive or a sprocket and lift it. If I get it then I can worry about the rest of it.

deacon · May 29, 2011

I won the poulan chainsaw so I will begin work on it when it arrives, I had forgotten about the rear sprocket but it does have that feature. What I will most likely do it use the clutch nut and weld a pipe to it. I don't think there are enough solid points to attach it to the wheel on wheel frame. I will have to wait till it arrives to figure it out, But that is the plan so this thread is finished. Thanks for reading...

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contemplating my next try.

deacon

minor bike philosopher

cannonball2

Well-Known Member

deacon

minor bike philosopher

cannonball2

Well-Known Member

deacon

minor bike philosopher

deacon

minor bike philosopher

deacon

minor bike philosopher

cannonball2

Well-Known Member

deacon

minor bike philosopher

cannonball2

Well-Known Member

deacon

minor bike philosopher

deacon

minor bike philosopher

deacon

minor bike philosopher

cannonball2

Well-Known Member

deacon

minor bike philosopher

deacon

minor bike philosopher