New 48cc Skyhawk No Start

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Brent436

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
55
0
0
Massachusetts
Having a lot of trouble guys. Like I said in the intro forum, I'm not new to engines as i graduated top of my automotive technology class last year. However, this little 48cc Grubbee Skyhawk has got me stumped.

Its a brand new motor. I installed it and it took me a while to get it started. When it started it ran real rough and wouldnt idle. I let the motor stop running and I havnt been able to start it since then. That first start I was running the stock plug, 18:1 fuel mix, the idle screw at 4 1/2 turns out, and the carb c-clip was set at the 3rd notch from the top.

Since then I have sealed the carb/intake manifold with rtv silicone so no leaks there. Still wouldnt start. I moved the c-clip to the 2nd notch from the top and still no start but it would pop few and far between. I replaced the stock spark plug with a champion E3 diamondfire plug (they didnt have the NKG). Since replacing the plug it pops an awful lot, every now and then popping to the point I thought it may be starting but still no luck. Last night I drained the carb and gas tank and remixed to 22:1 fuel ratio (I did the math so i know its 22:1). Today I took it out and it was still popping with no start.

I have tested the plug and there is definitely spark. The plug is wet after turning it over a few times so i know its getting gas. I clean it off everytime I put it back in to try to prevent it from fouling up. The motor definitely has compression and I checked the magneto for loose wires and there definitely are none. When I drained the fuel i checked the float and there are no cracks and no gas in the float.

I'm in Massachusetts so its cold and I know its going to be hard to start, but it should have started at this point. I've been searching this site for a solution to my problem and I still havnt come up with anything so any suggesetions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
-Brent
 

stv1jzgte

New Member
Feb 11, 2009
489
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australia
try less oil 25:1 or less, oils pretty good these days after breakin 32-40:1 is ok. You should try and find an ngk b6hs ive noticed once the plugs insulator is clogged and lined with oil they just pop pop pop fresh plug and they spring into life.
 

Brent436

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
55
0
0
Massachusetts
The plug is brand new theres no way that its bad. The float is fine, no cracks or fuel in it. What is the jet? Could I maybe have a picture or a diagram? I'm gonna go look it up but if you can get back to me that would be great. Thanks for the help.

-Brent
 

flybytaco

Metal Molding Madman
Oct 17, 2009
1,170
8
0
seekonk MASS
just bec ause a plug is brand new dont mean its good did it start on that plug? if so it could be fouled just because it sparks dont mean much the idle is not factory set either so you need to adjust that. new motors have lots of grease in them can foul a plug in 5 sec try a new b5hs and try again and once motor starts on choke and stalls dont try startin with choke on it never works shut choke off and giver some gas while pedalin itl start
 

Brent436

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
55
0
0
Massachusetts
Ok so the jet is the brass fitting that the fuel hose conects to. How should it look on the underside in the area where the float is? Again a picture or diagram would be great. Thanks again for the help.

-Brent
 

Brent436

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
55
0
0
Massachusetts
just bec ause a plug is brand new dont mean its good did it start on that plug? if so it could be fouled just because it sparks dont mean much the idle is not factory set either so you need to adjust that. new motors have lots of grease in them can foul a plug in 5 sec try a new b5hs and try again and once motor starts on choke and stalls dont try startin with choke on it never works shut choke off and giver some gas while pedalin itl start
It started on the stock plug that came with the kit. Since then that plug hasnt had a very good spark and it would barely pop at all. I have the idle screw set at 3 1/2 turns out right now. I'm gonna order an NGK plug if i cant get it started tonight. I hate to do it cuz i spent $6 on that champion plug and its supposed to be a real good plug and seems as close to starting as it ever did. I've only had the motor start up that first night that it ran real rough and it hasnt started since. When i try to start it i try the first few times not touching the throttle and after it doesnt start i give it just barely any throttle and it starts popping a lot more. Thanks for all your help!

-Brent
 

Brent436

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
55
0
0
Massachusetts
ok, so i just ordered 2 NGK b5hs plugs off of sickbikeparts.com (one of the sidebar venders). They should be delivered between 2-5 working days but hopefully i'll get it started by then.

-Brent
 

stv1jzgte

New Member
Feb 11, 2009
489
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australia
It started on the stock plug that came with the kit. Since then that plug hasnt had a very good spark and it would barely pop at all. I have the idle screw set at 3 1/2 turns out right now. I'm gonna order an NGK plug if i cant get it started tonight. I hate to do it cuz i spent $6 on that champion plug and its supposed to be a real good plug and seems as close to starting as it ever did. I've only had the motor start up that first night that it ran real rough and it hasnt started since. When i try to start it i try the first few times not touching the throttle and after it doesnt start i give it just barely any throttle and it starts popping a lot more. Thanks for all your help!

-Brent
Your gunna spend alot more than 6bucks on plugs while you have it its a 2 stroke! NGKb5hs b6hs b7hs
When its up and running and settled in as soon as it becomes a lil hard to start, swap a plug
I would be surprised if the cdi would suppy enough spark for that gimmicky plug.
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
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o_O

If that's the case stv1jzgte ya bttr check yer mix & plug gap man... I've had the same NGK B6HS in my Schwinn fer about 4000 some odd miles, I've not even bothered to clean it 'cause I r lazy and it runs fine anyway *shrug* I do actually replace the plug(s) in w/e engine during the annual spring tune-up, but even then it's usually not needful - I do it outa habit more than anything and I save the old one(s) fer a spare (that I never end up needin' lol).

Honestly, most times a (quality) plug can be cleaned and re-gapped - replacement is only needed if there's excessive electrode wear. If you find yourself going through "a lot of plugs" you've other problems that need be attended to. The exception (sorta) to this is if you flood/foul tryin' to start a reluctant 2 smoker... a quick plug swap will often be all that's needed... but even then there's nothing wrong with the old plug that a lil time/clean/regap won't fix :)
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
My yamaha has 9000 miles on it, 7000 of those are on the second plug. Why did I change the plug? Not sure...when I took it out, it looked good. BUT, I have had bad plugs (factory) right out of the box.

Now about that jet. Drop the floatbowl, and look up in the carb...it's the brass part that is screwed into the body of the carb, not the fuel inlet. It's the brass thing that picks up the fuel after it has come through the fuel inlet.
 

stv1jzgte

New Member
Feb 11, 2009
489
0
0
australia
o_O

If that's the case stv1jzgte ya bttr check yer mix & plug gap man... I've had the same NGK B6HS in my Schwinn fer about 4000 some odd miles, I've not even bothered to clean it 'cause I r lazy and it runs fine anyway *shrug* I do actually replace the plug(s) in w/e engine during the annual spring tune-up, but even then it's usually not needful - I do it outa habit more than anything and I save the old one(s) fer a spare (that I never end up needin' lol).

Honestly, most times a (quality) plug can be cleaned and re-gapped - replacement is only needed if there's excessive electrode wear. If you find yourself going through "a lot of plugs" you've other problems that need be attended to. The exception (sorta) to this is if you flood/foul tryin' to start a reluctant 2 smoker... a quick plug swap will often be all that's needed... but even then there's nothing wrong with the old plug that a lil time/clean/regap won't fix :)

Right and right i do use to much oil 32:1 but mainly because im pareniod it will explode on the way to and from work and im not kind to it revs wise.
plug gaps .45 yeh it starts easier at .25 but runs a bit sick and 10kmh slower top end.


Sure if i use less oil and close up the gap i wouldnt have to change plugs each month but ....
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
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0
Maine
The problems with color charts like the following are there's gonna be some variation due to what type 2 stroke oil ya use and it's mix ratio (synth tends towards grays & heavy mixes natch cause heavier deposits), not to mention color variations caused by w/e camera was used... still, the following one is pretty good *shrug*

Spark Plugs


If ya'd like - post a quality, in focus pic of yer plug's electrode and I'm sure we'll all chime in to further confuse ;)
 
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Brent436

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
55
0
0
Massachusetts
No not how the plug would look, I'm talking about how the jet would look haha. The plug is clean it just gets wet after turning it over a bunch of times. Thanks for the chart though, itll help me out when i do finally get the thing started.

-Brent
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
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0
Maine
lol sorry 'bout that - the one thing that isn't labeled in this pic (the brass tube in the middle) is where the jet is located. Just make sure everythin' is clean & snug and it's fine. Don't get brutal on it tho - it's soft metal ;)
 

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thatsdax

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Feb 22, 2008
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Hi Brent,

Brent.. These motors are pretty simple. You basically need 2 things to make your motor work. And.. that is.. Spark and Fuel. Seems like you have fuel since you wrote that your spark plug is wet. So.. You must not be getting any spark . Check for spark. I scanned the posts and maybe I missed it.. But.. Have you checked for spark yet? If not.. Check it. My Bet is that you have none since your plug is wet. To check for spark, simply remove plug from top of motor, snap plug wire and cap back on to plug and while the plug is touching the motor metal to metal, spin the motor by grabbing the rear tire and spin it !! Do it in the shade so you can look at the tip of the plug and see if there is a spark jumping the gap. If you see no spark. Then.. It can be any of three things. Spark plug is bad, magneto is bad, or CDI with plug wire and cap is bad.. Oh.. There is a 4th.. Kill switch is bad or incorrectly connected. Disconnect the kill switch in order to take it out of the equation. That will leave only the 3 possibilities. Once kill switch is taken out of the picture, and you test, and have no spark. 9 of 10 times it is the magneto. Let us know what you find. Enjoy the ride..