Where can I get a kit that will allow me to convert power from the drive sprocket from the left side to the right side so I can shift the gears? Thanks.
A shifter kit?
- Thread starter TheRagnarok
- Start date
I did Google it, and found Sick Bike Parts. But $179.50 for a mounting bracket and some sprockets is a little steep for me. I might try my hand at making one of these myself. 
You could try a homemade one like I've done but its not for everyone. My setup uses a 44t sprocket welded (Seriously welded, not spot welding) to a 30t sprocket and still on the left side. Instead of a tensioner I used a cable hooked up to a spring tensioner that lifts the chain when pulled ( but because it has springback doesn't let the chain hang when in lower gear). I attached the cable to a bicycle brake lever and welded the lever where the left pedal used to be so I can upshift/downshift like a normal motorcycle.
But like I said its not for everyone, I had professional welding which can be costly (my friend did it for me for free), and it also required removing the last traces of bicycle-ness ie pedals, crank and chain. But it does work.
PS: Also, after the pedals are removed, buy thick bolt thread and then tie or adhere the foot mounts (which I made from bicycle handgrips) to them just like installing the pedal crank. That leaves room for the shifter and lets you ride in the proper position when cornering.
But like I said its not for everyone, I had professional welding which can be costly (my friend did it for me for free), and it also required removing the last traces of bicycle-ness ie pedals, crank and chain. But it does work.
PS: Also, after the pedals are removed, buy thick bolt thread and then tie or adhere the foot mounts (which I made from bicycle handgrips) to them just like installing the pedal crank. That leaves room for the shifter and lets you ride in the proper position when cornering.
I think you are seriously underestimating what the kit comes with. Do a little more reading and research and I think you will find it to be an excellent value. I mean a set of front frewheel cranks and a front freewheel cost over $100 alone.
You could try making a similar assembly... I hope you succeed. I had the same big-time reservations about spending the money. I just purchased a shifter kit for myself after a long debate. I don't have the time to run around to find parts and pieces and purchase them, test them, and if my efforts fail, I spent a lot of money and have nothing. I have worked other projects and a philosophy runs fairly common: "Pay the exorbitant price up front; let someone else absorb the engineering costs. It is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase if you take good care of it. The kit will probably cost less in the long run." I had to cut way back on eating out and other vices to get my kit. I hope you get the kit and enjoy the heck out of it! I hope to get my second bike up and running with the shifter kit real soon!
Mike
Mike
if you want to still be able to use it as a bicycle,then it would be hard to find the parts and make it yourself for less than that.
I think $179 is a great price from SBP,just take a look at the part list and pictures,it would be hard to try and duplicate there parts for that price.
i even would order a kit,but i dont have the money and i also have a single speed bike,anybody ever use one on a single speed,would it work with a small rear single speed sprocket?
Karl
I think $179 is a great price from SBP,just take a look at the part list and pictures,it would be hard to try and duplicate there parts for that price.
i even would order a kit,but i dont have the money and i also have a single speed bike,anybody ever use one on a single speed,would it work with a small rear single speed sprocket?
Karl
I agree if you really look at everything in that kit you'd be hard pressed to buy it all separately and come even close to their price.
well ****, i have a right drop motor and dont need the jackshaft. Any true and tested ways to implement the free wheel without sacrificing the cranks?
The SBP kit doesn't sacrifice the cranks. It just replaces the cranks with a pair that has a threaded section on the right side crank for the front freewheel. If you have a motor that can frame mount and has a right side output then you would just need a freewheel, replacement cranks, and sprockets. Expect to fine tune the chain tension. I'd like to know what motor you have.
Not yet, but they are working on it.
As for not having to use the jackshaft, getting the drive from the left to the right is only part of what it does- it also provides more reduction to get the engine output to a speed rangle where it can use the bicycle gear ratios more effectively.
As for not having to use the jackshaft, getting the drive from the left to the right is only part of what it does- it also provides more reduction to get the engine output to a speed rangle where it can use the bicycle gear ratios more effectively.
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When you do decide to get the Sick Bike Parts shifter kit, keep in mind you will have to take apart the crank assembly from the bottom bracket and replace the horizontal shaft with the one SBP provides. The process is not difficult, but it would be to your benefit to seek out someone who has taken apart a bottom bracket before. (Maybe a second-hand bike shop or someone who builds bikes for charities.) Or find a book at a bookstore or library. I replaced the bearings in my own bike's bottom bracket by following book instructions and instructions from SBP. The new bearings cost $4 at a local high-end bike shop. A tube of Teflon lube was a bit pricy, but that was my choice and will last me 50 more bike rebuilds. Use a nickle's worth of good axle grease otherwise. Pack the bearings with grease well. Once you can see your new rebuilt bottom bracket assembly work, rest assured you can now fix anything on your bike.
haha, its actually a left drop, i just told the sickbikes guys it wasnt cause i wanted discount kit price minus jackshaft. this is what im looking at... flip the rear wheel so sprockets are on the left, freeze up the freewheel on the grearset, and use the crank freewheel. tie up the 4 stroke and smash down the road with out the ~15% jackshaft energy loss. suggestions???
Well one suggestion maybe two. If you put the freewheel on the left side it will freewheel the wrong way just like the rear wheel would and pedaling would unscrew the freewheel off the crankarm if you did get the freewheel to work right. Second, can you get the motor chain to run nearly straight down?
FYI on my SBP shifter install on a Skykomish, Marble Point Mt. Bike.
I was able to use my existing shaft for the new cranks. My bottom bracket was a sealed bearing unit so I mounted everything and tried it. Everything lined up great. I have approx. 400 miles on the bike with the shift kit installed no problems at all except 5 minor chain tension adjustments. The offset in the new crankarms was all the clearance I needed.
FYI on my SBP shifter install on a Skykomish, Marble Point Mt. Bike.
I was able to use my existing shaft for the new cranks. My bottom bracket was a sealed bearing unit so I mounted everything and tried it. Everything lined up great. I have approx. 400 miles on the bike with the shift kit installed no problems at all except 5 minor chain tension adjustments. The offset in the new crankarms was all the clearance I needed.
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Bandit, I know you wanted to use a 4 cycle motor but if your just diein to do a shifter build with no jackshaft here's a suggestion. 2-cycle motors don't care which direction they rotate. You could mount a HT motor in the frame backwards so the output gear was on the right. You would have to re-time the spinning magnet but I'd imagine that just flipping it over would do it. A good example of this are the old Harley Golfcarts. They were 2 cycles that had a lever in the front of the seat. To go in reverse you turned the lever and it changed the starter direction. So when you backed up the motor ran backwards. You still may have a problem getting the motor chain to clear the motor and engage the pedal sprocket.
turns out the spark timing needs to be adjusted a few degrees forward past top dead center for the motor the run in reverse. if its timed dead center, itd have trouble deciding which direction to kick in.
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Like I said you'd probably only need to remove the generator magnet and turn it over to fix the timing. It wouldn't be hard to mark it stock at top dead center then refigure the timing offset for spinning the other rotation. Piston ported motors will run equally the same in either rotation as long as they are timed right.
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