Oil mixture

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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Most likely a ton of these threads on here about oil mixture already..but...


Ok Tomorrow or the next day we are finally going to give it a go. It's a Chinese 2 stroke, but I want to get the mixture correct the first time and I want reassurance that I am right from what I learned and researched.

So if I'm wrong please tell me.

To keep things simple, dad and I are starting with a simple 1 gallon storage gas tank. We have Amsoil 100% synthetic oil made for marine, but also motorcycles/snowmobiles. It's called HP-Injector

AMSOIL - HP Injector Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (HPI)

It says for outboards, but for motorcycles and carburated too.

Ok so for one gallon of gas should I use the ration of 24:1 for break-in or 50:1 because it's a synthetic oil?

I have no idea if the same ratios are for both plain or synthetic oils. I'm thinking for a pure synthetic you would need less oil.

I'm under pressure to get this thing running and I did all the homework to get it perfect...Dad is 67 years old and is pumped up that finally the time is here to get it running...I just want everything to be right, because I'd hate to get him sad if it doesn't start or even worse...blow up first thing.

Thanks guys...this forum is a great tool.
 
2door

2door

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Eric
I read through the specs for your oil and it more or less confirmed our general suggestions to stay away from oils formulated for outboard motors. This is due to the difference in operating temperatures for water cooled verses air cooled engines. Most of us will lean toward a good quality 2 cycle oil formulated for air cooled engines.
There is much written hear about oils, both pro and con as far as synthetics so I would suggest you spend a little time reading and/or talking to a tool rental place to see what they recommend for their air cooled 2 cycle power equipment. Good luck and I hope you and your dad enjoy the hobby. Good to see a father son team.
You could start reading here> http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...=motorbicycling.com/f4/oil-mixture-29193.html
Tom
 
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Eric2.0

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2door said:
Eric
I read through the specs for your oil and it more or less confirmed our general suggestions to stay away from oils formulated for outboard motors. This is due to the difference in operating temperatures for water cooled verses air cooled engines. Most of us will lean toward a good quality 2 cycle oil formulated for air cooled engines.
There is much written hear about oils, both pro and con as far as synthetics so I would suggest you spend a little time reading and/or talking to a tool rental place to see what they recommend for their air cooled 2 cycle power equipment. Good luck and I hope you and your dad enjoy the hobby. Good to see a father son team.
You could start reading here> oil - Google Search
Tom
Click to expand...
Hey, Tom.

My dad got anxious, went out to the snowmobile shop and that is what the guy gave him. After I read that outboard shouldn't be used in these bike engines and yepp he gets outboard oil lmao. No problem though, because we can use it in our little flat boat motor.

The mixture ratio on the can says 50:1 mix, but I wasn't brave enough to risk it today. I'll do more looking around at the optimum ratios for synthetics... I'm looking at the Sabre version of amsoil since that is what seems to be used by you all here.

I know these chines engines aren't Yammahas so I'm trying my best to take care of it in break-in. We already know we'll only run it for 15 minutes flat down the road then shut it off for the first ride...also not going over 10 miles an hour or so.

I'll put up pics soon...it looks pretty cool
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Looked around more and now a new host of decisions, my lord.

The air/fuel mixture has an effect on oil amounts

Synthetic shouldn't be used for break-in, because it's so good at what it does, it doesn't allow the engine to "seat" everything or "wear in" right.

OMG why does this have to be so hard?

I'm thinking I'll just go get some good "normal" air cooled oil and mix it 24:1 then switch to synthetic later.

Also I need to learn about the carb settings... the book says turn the needle out 3 turns, but that is probably wrong too.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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I went to Walmart and got some Poulon(weed eater) Synthetic oil. If this engine won't run on this, I give up. It says for all air cooled engines and has a neat measuring cup built in.

But, lol... It says 40:1 mixture. Now do I still mix it to 24:1 for break-In? Or for synthetic type....you don't mix it that rich?

My question is.. Both normal AND synthetic oils can be mixed the same ratios or what?
 
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Eric2.0

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2door said:
Follow the oil manufacturers recommendations.

If you really want to get confused read this> http://motorbicycling.com/f3/100-1-mix-9850.html
There are quite a few of us who use the Opti-2 oil @ the recommended 100:1 ratio.
I don't mean to make the decision harder for you but just offering you all of the options.
Tom
Click to expand...
Ok, so the Poulon oil I got for air cooled engines is synthetic and all it says is 40:1 formula....no charts or anything....just 40:1.

So I am assuming I mix it 40:1 break in and forever.
 
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Eric2.0

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I read about the Opti-2.. Seems simple to me, but for a brand new, never started before engine....it's also 100:1 and 100:1 there after?

Seems you all like it and it works fine...bikes run better it seems from what I read.
 
2door

2door

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Eric2.0 said:
Ok, so the Poulon oil I got for air cooled engines is synthetic and all it says is 40:1 formula....no charts or anything....just 40:1.

So I am assuming I mix it 40:1 break in and forever.
Click to expand...
If that was my oil of choice, that's what I would do. 40:1 isn't that outrageous. If the oil is formulated for air cooled 2 stroke engines, then you should be safe. Let us know how your bike performs, please.
Tom
 
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Eric2.0

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Did some more reading online about Opti-2 and it says it covers ALL RATIOS FOR TWO STROKE ENGINES at the 100:1 ratio it calls for.

So I'm pretty sure now even if it's break in or later, the ratio is always 100:1 no matter what.
 
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Eric2.0

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2door said:
If that was my oil of choice, that's what I would do. 40:1 isn't that outrageous. If the oil is formulated for air cooled 2 stroke engines, then you should be safe. Let us know how your bike performs, please.
Tom
Click to expand...

Yepp, I decided I'm just going to follow the instruction exactly and go with the 40:1 mix with the Poulon oil.

If this first engine performs great and last fo r a reasonable time(over 500 miles or so) then I'll be more confident to going to higher quality like Opti or Amsoil.

I guess it's settled then!...Either tomorrow or the following morning...either way this thing is goingn to be run...I'm tired of waiting lol....

Thanks, Tom!
 
2door

2door

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Please let us know how things go. A photo or two of you, your dad and the bike would be much appreciated. I'm really interested in how your dad enjoys the bike. Just tell him to take it easy. When you get to be our age, things don't heal so fast :)
Ride safe, have fun.
Tom
 
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Eric2.0

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2door said:
Please let us know how things go. A photo or two of you, your dad and the bike would be much appreciated. I'm really interested in how your dad enjoys the bike. Just tell him to take it easy. When you get to be our age, things don't heal so fast :)
Ride safe, have fun.
Tom
Click to expand...
Will do!.

We decided that this bike will be the test-bed and we'll learn on it so we aren't to concerned about cosmetics and such right now, although it does look pretty damn slick. I'm just going to use the Walmart synthetic after I run a tank or two with some normal 24:1 oil for break-in. I like the idea that normal oil lets the rings shave the high spots a little quicker.

I'll be careful to just let it put put for 5 minutes at first(not riding it) and vary the throttle a bit not letting it idle. Then I'll ride it and go for a 10 minute 1/2 throttle rides until tank is empty, letting it cool fully between each ride. Gradually bring throttle up. Check the head bolts and everything else for tightness.

I'll report in at what happens.
Eric.
 
rohmell

rohmell

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I have run 40:1 from break-in and have not had any problems with my builds.
Good Luck with your bike, and enjoy!
 
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Eric2.0

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All it does is stutter and put put a little bit when I am pedaling. Stop pedaling and blah.

Got spark, got gas... At 4 ounces of conventional oil in a gallon mixed perfect

Says back out mixture screw 4:1/2 turns....I found the idle screw, but where the **** is the mixture screw? I only see ONE SCREW.

Float bowl is full....I even sqirted gas directly in the chamber with the filter off.

Nothing nada nothing and my legs are paying for it....I was better off going on a REAL bike ride.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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I'm going to a good hill tommorow and let it rip faster as you say. My legs are beat from pedaling.

I didn't think it would be that hard to start, even the first time.

So the key is to just keep pedaling until it builds up power? I was puling the clutch in at first sound of it starting.

I don't think I cam pedal it that long though....It's hard.
 
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Eric2.0

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it only has one screw....so I adjusted the throttle slider on top thinking that maybe in these china engines, that is the mixture adjustment...I feel tupid now.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Nougat said:
Oh that's your problem - don't pull the clutch handle when it starts, because it's not going to want to stay running. The momentum of the bike will keep the engine turning and firing, give it twenty feet at least, and be ready to rev it up when you do pull the clutch in.

And you'll probably have to stop to fiddle with the choke after it's started, stopping the bike while trying to keep it running with the throttle is tricky at first, and then trying to keep it running while you look for and adjust the choke lever a little is also tricky at first.

I always fiddle with my idle screw on every ride, too, because it needs to idle high until it's good and warmed up, and not so much after that. This accomplishes a number of things: it lets me have the idle speed I want depending on what day it is and how warmed up the engine is, it ensures that the idle screw isn't going to vibrate out of the carb, and it draws the attention of interested bystanders to the fact that, yes, I actually have an engine on this bicycle.

They're not finely tuned machines. They respond to firm insistence, not gentle coercion.
Click to expand...
Yepp, I was rolling along about 13 feet or so, pop the clutch, engine turns and gets a slight, muffled buzz...then I pull the clutch expecting it to come to life and I just sit there and let it break-in...but no.

Guess I'll go to that hill and just keep on pedaling it.. How do yo uknow when it is actually running enough to stay running on it's own? Will it all of a sudden just accelerate and I can stop pedaling?

You're right...it aint no Husqvarna weed eater....I can have one of those running in one minute.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Nougat said:
It'll sputter a bit, then you'll not pedal so hard, and you'll notice the power from the engine driving the bike.
Click to expand...

Ok then, bud...I'm going to go out tomorrow hit that steep hill and pedal with the clutch on until I notice it pulling itself.

I actually wish they had a pull starter...

My legs are beat!


Thanks for the help...

I'll post again on what happens.
 
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