Custom Sprocket Adapter Tore up Spokes

Motorbikenewb · Nov 1, 2013

Greetings fellow Motorbicyclists,

I wanted to share a recent experience. I installed a custom sprocket adapter from Manic Mechanic. It looked great and worked well for a few miles, then I discovered that it tore off a few spokes, essentially ruining the rear wheel.

I had to replace the rear wheel using that of another bike and going back to the stock adapter sandwich solution (resulting in my having to re-tighten all the nuts after each ride).

My question is this: Is there a spoke size/diameter requirement in order to safely use the custom sprocket adapter? If so, what's the minimum size requirement?

dance1

crassius · Nov 1, 2013

never had a loosening problem with the rag joint type if it was put on right & tight

only heard of solid adapter problems when they were not clamped tight enough to stay put

dodge dude94 · Nov 1, 2013

I've found on the rag joint nuts that if you use the stock ones they don't loosen, but if you use non-stock (aka better) nuts without loctite they do loosen.

And I would advise you go out and buy class 8.8 hardware for the ragjoint. That's what I did and the difference in quality is night and day.

mapbike · Nov 1, 2013

The manc adapter dont rely on spokes, if they fit the hub correctly thay clamp tight and drive the hub not the spokes, sounds like one of two things happened in your case either it wasn't on tight and secure because you made a mistake or it wasn't on tight and secure because you got the wrong adapter for your hub, are you running a coaster brake rear wheel?

I run the stock rubber donut coupler set up on all my bikes, never had a single issue and nts never loosen off, I use nyloc lock nuts on all of mine with perfect results on 14ga spokes and 12ga spokes and I've never broken a spoke.

The key is correct installation so the coupler is tight around spokes and that it is also centered correctly on wheel, do those things and you will never have a problem with it.

Map
.wee.

MotorBicycleRacing · Nov 1, 2013

[QUOTE="Motorbikenewb]I installed a custom sprocket adapter from Manic Mechanic. It looked great and worked well for a few miles, then I discovered that it tore off a few spokes, essentially ruining the rear wheel[/QUOTE]
If you had the right sized hub for a Manic Mechanic adapter the question is how did you tighten the 2 bolts and to what torque value?

The Allen key can not provide enough leverage.
Only a long cheater tube slid over the alken key can crank those bolts down to 20 foot lbs or using a ratchet driver.
How did you tighten your bolts?

rogergendron1 · Nov 1, 2013

right the manic adapter is not suposed to touch the spokes !! it clamps solid to the hub of the wheel and goes between the spokes not touching them. if it bent ripped your spokes it was not tight to your hub and thats what caused the problem , willing to bet you ordered the wrong diamiter hub adapter and it did not clamp tight to the hub.

Venice Motor Bikes · Nov 1, 2013

I concur with MBR... You need to use a cheater bar & torque the sh#t out of the main bolts so it doesn't slip & touch the spokes.

I've found that even with a hub adapter, sometimes the cheap 14ga spokes can still break for no reason.

(It's better to use wheels with 12ga spokes to be sure). (^)

Motorbikenewb · Nov 1, 2013

Thanks for all the responses. I ordered the right sized for the hub... measured it with a caliper and everything. However, it was touching the spokes and must not have been tight enough. For my 3rd build I plan to replace the nuts and bolts for the ragjoint (class 8.8 hardware as suggested). I've found that while breaking in the bike, the nuts on the rag joint tend to become more stable... I guess its a "breaking in" of the ragjoint... I rode around the hood for about 45 mins today, and they held up pretty well.

maniac57 · Nov 1, 2013

If you replace the ragjoint hardware (a very good idea), simply buy nylock nuts like the stockers and you won't need loctite. Use bolts, nylock nuts,flat and lock washers just like the original setup.
The ragjoint seats by compressing the rubber rings over the spokes, so keep an eye on it the first few weeks and you should be fine. Once they take a set, they rarely loosen.

mapbike · Nov 1, 2013

maniac57 said:
If you replace the ragjoint hardware (a very good idea), simply buy nylock nuts like the stockers and you won't need loctite. Use bolts, nylock nuts,flat and lock washers just like the original setup.
The ragjoint seats by compressing the rubber rings over the spokes, so keep an eye on it the first few weeks and you should be fine. Once they take a set, the rarely loosen.

Ditto. ..................!

2door · Nov 2, 2013

maniac57 said:
If you replace the ragjoint hardware (a very good idea), simply buy nylock nuts like the stockers and you won't need loctite. Use bolts, nylock nuts,flat and lock washers just like the original setup.
The ragjoint seats by compressing the rubber rings over the spokes, so keep an eye on it the first few weeks and you should be fine. Once they take a set, they rarely loosen.

Ditto:

The rag joint, properly installed is as troublefree as any of the aftermarket parts. They certainly do not have the visual appeal of a machined aluminum adapter but once centered, tightened and aligned they will serve you well. I've put thousands of miles on the kit supplied rag joint without loosening or misalignment. And I use the kit fasteners with no thread locking compound.

I also have used aluminum adapters and they are easy to install, do not require centering or alignment and it has never loosened. It all depends on your preference, mechanical skills and experience.

Tom

rogergendron1 · Nov 2, 2013

the manic type hub adapter is the best type of drive system, ... however you sometimes need to add aspacer to make it seat tight and make shure you tighten it all the way.

second the rag joint is the worst type but it is reliable when mounted true and solid with good replacement hardware... i ue this system only i replace the suplied scews with ss nuts and bolts.

the middle ground is the billit pinaple adapter.. t uss the spokes like the rag joint but its solid bilit aluminum..

60weight · Nov 2, 2013

Does this mean what I suspect?...that rag joints are best...any bike hub..if properly installed... rules?

maniac57 · Nov 2, 2013

60weight said:
Does this mean what I suspect?...that rag joints are best...any bike hub..if properly installed... rules?

I would not say the rag joint is the best, simply the easiest to fit and cheapest.
While the rag joint works on almost any hub, the adapters require a specific fit to work correctly and are better designed for strength.
You have to order the RIGHT adapter to insure proper fit whereas the rag joint will almost always work.

Scott.D.Lang · Nov 3, 2013

if I can help it Ill never use a rag joint again. I never had any problem with the rag joint per say but with my wheel because of the rag joint is a different story.
The problem with rag joints is this they pull on one side of the spokes so they will cause your wheel to bend in the direction of the rag joint and if you do work to your motor to make more power they tend to break 14g spokes very easily.
With a adapter you do not have these 2 dangerous problems because for 1 they do not put pressure on the spokes in the way that a rag joint does. A adapter puts pressure on all your spokes not just 1/2 of them.
Now all that said Im sure if you have 12g spokes the wheel would hold up a lot better but if you are anything like I am stock power is never enough and why risk a weak spot if you are making more power then the oem is meant to handle

borntofli · Nov 3, 2013

Mine slips too and kills spokes...... I have to replace 6 spokes every 3-4 months....I shimmed it so it fits tighter, but still happens.......

2door · Nov 3, 2013

If you have to add shims or spacers to a sprocket adapter you have the wrong adapter or it was machined incorrectly. Properly torqued to the hub the good ones don't slip, loosen or put any stress on the spokes. Killing the engine with the clutch or hard clutch drop starts can compromise spoke integrity however. I'll get arguments there but it's a fact none the less.

As for replacing the fasteners, as I said above, I've never had to do that but choosing stainless steel is not the way to go. Stainless fasteners might look good but they are not made for high stress or shear applications. If you feel it necessary to replace the kit hardware go with metric 8.8 or SAE grade 5 and leave the stainless for non-structural decorative stuff.

Tom

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Custom Sprocket Adapter Tore up Spokes

Motorbikenewb

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crassius

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dodge dude94

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mapbike

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MotorBicycleRacing

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rogergendron1

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Venice Motor Bikes

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Motorbikenewb

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maniac57

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mapbike

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2door

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rogergendron1

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maniac57

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