I had a BGF motor that had the same issue. It was because of a imperfection in the rod small end. I lost 2 small end bearings before parting out the motor. It had about 800 miles on it. I haven't had much luck with BGF or LEB motors. All of them had crankshaft issues of one type or another. I no longer will buy motors from them because of this.I have 2 bgf engines I use that the bearing fails after 500 miles +- ..The bearings don't fit very tight when new.... I use the bearings from bearingsdirect... What would be a more durable bearing....
Yes, I messed with these. I needed to use a vice to force the unit into the small-end. I went through two of them and gave up. They fit well over the pin giving smooth performance, and great for "warning" you that they're going bad (clicking-sound before they have a chance of deteriorating, and destroying your top-end), but I only got a couple hundred miles out of both. Plus, removing the sheath is more trouble than it's worth; you need to Dremel it out. In fact, I damaged a crank doing it; if I DO use that crank again, it'll be as a reserve AND I'll have to use my last HK1014 since there's a decent divot on the OD surface. I've been on a pretty good tear on my present standard needle-bearing; the clearances are tight all around and after about 1000mi, it's all still like-new. I'm just really gun-shy about destroying another jug/rings set (you can always grind a piston back into shape!). I'm tempted to try screwing around with brass-bushings now.Has anyone used the bearings w/ the metal shell on the outside? I have some of these, but they are just too tight to get in the con rod...... 10x14x15 is the correct bearing, correct????????
I ordered two of the brass bushings from juicemotors, I plan to try one in my oldest engine when I have time to pull the top end down, it has a little over 2000 miles on it now and has been a very good little engine, its a 2009 engine from BGF and I've notice what seems to be a bit of a rattle up top, not sure if it is an issue pr just more noticable with the quieter exhaust I have on it right now, it is parkered until I can pull the head and jug and do some port work and replace the upper bearing.Yes, I messed with these. I needed to use a vice to force the unit into the small-end. I went through two of them and gave up. They fit well over the pin giving smooth performance, and great for "warning" you that they're going bad (clicking-sound before they have a chance of deteriorating, and destroying your top-end), but I only got a couple hundred miles out of both. Plus, removing the sheath is more trouble than it's worth; you need to Dremel it out. In fact, I damaged a crank doing it; if I DO use that crank again, it'll be as a reserve AND I'll have to use my last HK1014 since there's a decent divot on the OD surface. I've been on a pretty good tear on my present standard needle-bearing; the clearances are tight all around and after about 1000mi, it's all still like-new. I'm just really gun-shy about destroying another jug/rings set (you can always grind a piston back into shape!). I'm tempted to try screwing around with brass-bushings now.